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      09-19-2013, 09:57 AM   #1
flipm3
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DIY: Evolve Automotive X-Pipe

For a multitude of reasons, working on the X-Pipe for the E9X M3 is very common. Whether it be doing maintenance on O2 sensors, dropping stock X-Pipe to modify, or replacing with aftermarket, the process is all the same. Prior to installing my Evolve Automotive X-Pipe, I tried to venture through the world wide web to find a solid DIY. Sadly I only came up short with many reviews having some missing information or not as many tips n' tricks as I had hoped.

I had the intention of documenting and photographing the whole process, but unfortunately due to time constraints, I couldn't take as many photos as possible. Hopefully my words can help depict a clearer picture. Once under the car, everything is VERY self-explanatory.

Tools Needed:
1/4" Drive Ratchet
3/8" Drive Ratchet
1/2" Drive Ratchet
8mm Hex Socket (3/8" Drive) (short/standard)
10mm Hex Socket (3/8" Drive) (short/standard)
13mm Hex Socket (1/4" & 3/8" Drive, 1/2" Impact) (short/standard)
16mm Hex Socket (1/2" Drive or 1/2" Impact) (deep)
E12 Socket (3/8" Drive)
3" 3/8" Drive Extension
10" 3/8" Drive Extension
1/2" Drive Swivel
1/2" to 3/8" Drive Adaptor
Impact Wrench
14mm Wrench
22mm Wrench
Jack Stands
Jack
Wheel chocks

Parts and Supplies Needed/Recommended:
4 x Torx Bolt for Header to Downpipe (PN: 11621318568)
4 x Hex Nut for Header to Downpipe (PN: 18301317898)
2 x Gasket Ring for Header to Downpipe (PN: 11627830668)
2 x Hex Bolt with Washer for Downpipe Bracket (PN: 07119905739)
4 x Collar Nut for X-Pipe Rubber Mount (PN: 07119906089)
Note: Gasket Rings are needed. All other parts are recommended simply due to propensity to rust.

Disclaimer: This DIY is simply a documentation of what I did to succeed with the install. This does not necessarily guarantee similar results for other installs. I am in a no way liable for any mishaps during other installs if this is used as an instruction manual. If mistakes are found in the DIY, please notify me and I will correct them. Please note that different brand X-Pipes may require different tools and supplies. Please only attempt this when exhaust is cool enough to touch for safety reasons.

Step 1: Put car on jack stands. Lift front driver side from jack pad to allow enough space to slide a second jack under the front jack pad, using ramps is also doable. Lift front of car and place on jack stands. Lift rear rear driver side from jack pad to allow enough space to slide a second jack under the rear jack point in front of the differential. Lift rear of car and place on jack stands.


Step 2: Remove felt transmission cover panel. Two rear 10mm screws. Two rear 10mm nuts on sides. Two front 8mm screws on sides requiring different sized extensions. Three front 8mm screws.


Step 3: Loosen front under brace. Four surrounding 16mm bolts and one 16mm in center jack pad. Three front 10mm screws. No need to fully remove, just loosen so you can easily tilt it down to access header-downpipe bolts/nuts.


Step 4: Remove header to downpipe bolts/nuts. Use a 14mm wrench to hold nut in front of the flange. Use E12 socket, extensions, adaptors, swivels, and impact wrench to easily remove the E-Torx bolt. Be careful, front of X-Pipe may drop slightly.


[b]Step 5:[b] Unclip O2 sensors from harness. Use a 10mm socket to remove O2 sensor brackets/covers. Pull out the O2 sensor from holding clips. Unclip O2 sensors from harness. I also recommend breaking loose the O2 sensors from the O2 bungs using a 22mm wrench. No need to remove, just loosen for ease later.


Step 6: Undo X-Pipe to muffler connecting pipe clamps. Using a 13mm and Impact Wrench, quickly loosen clamps and slide them backwards onto the connecting pipe away from X-Pipe. Be careful, rear of X-Pipe might drop slightly.

Step 7: Remove front X-Pipe bolts. Using a 13mm and Impact Wrench, carefully remove bolts from the bracket that holds the front of the X-Pipe. You might want to consider placing a jack under the X-Pipe to hold it in place and support it from dropping unexpectedly.

Step 8: Remove X-Pipe center brace bolts and fully remove X-Pipe. Place a jack under the X-Pipe for support and balance. Using a 13mm and Impact Wrench, carefully remove four 13mm bolts that holds the center brace to chassis of car. Be careful, X-Pipe will begin to lower. Use caution and assure that the X-Pipe is balanced or stable enough to slowly lower. Remove from under the car.

Step 9: Transfer all hardware to Evolve Automotive X-Pipe. Properly place Pre and Post-Cat O2 sensors using a 22mm wrench. Transfer center brace and rubber mounts using a 13mm and Impact Wrench.


Step 10: Loosely assemble Evolve Automotive X-Pipe. Join the front downpipes to the crossover via the slip-on flange. I recommended inserting it all the way, but keeping it somewhat loose so you can adjust according when raised back up under the car.


Step 11: Position and raise the Evolve Automotive X-Pipe under the car. First place new header gasket rings onto header flanges. Position X-Pipe under car and using a jack stand to raise it into position. This takes some finesse and tinkering to get everything somewhat placed for you to wiggle it around, align, and position. I recommend focussing on header to downpipe first.

Step 12: Loosely bolt in the front of the X-Pipe to the headers and attach O2 sensors. With the X-Pipe somewhat balanced and suspended in the air, very loosely slid in a E-Torx Bolt and screwed it into the copper 14mm nut. Keep it loose so you have leverage to line up the X-Pipe properly. To align the front of the X-Pipe, you will have to play with the jack to raise/lower appropriately for proper engagement. After good alignment, clip in and tuck all the O2 sensors.


Step 13: Loosely slide on the clamps at the rear of the downpipe, connecting it to the connecting pipes for the muffler. This is where it's key to have the center slip-on flanges loose. You will have to pull out the crossover section forward and back to assure proper length and alignment with the muffler connecting pipes. After good alignment, slide on the clamps and lightly tighten using your hand or 13mm.

Step 14: Tightening front and rear of X-Pipe to headers. Now that everything is essentially aligned properly, raise the center of the X-Pipe to sit flush with the chassis. Move back to the front of the X-Pipe and tightened down all the bolts/nuts to the headers and front brackets. I reinstalled the O2 sensor cover/bracket housing. Then move back to the rear and tightened down the clamps.

Step 15: Tightening down center of X-Pipe. Tighten down the center support brace to chassis using a 13mm and Impact Wrench.

Step 16: Tightening down the slip-on joint between the two sections of the Evolve Automotive X-Pipe. Using a 13mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet, hold the top screw in place, so you can use a 13mm and Impact wrench to tighten the bottom nut. At this point, everything should essentially be tightened down!

Step 17: Torque everything down and assure fully tightened. The following torque specs were taken from the Akrapovic Installation Manual. In all honesty, I could not find any BMW specified torque specs, even when attempting to venture through TIS. Akrapovic's specs were a bit lighter than I expected, realizing the force I used on the bolts, I probably made them noticeably tighter than specified by Akrapovic. So use your best judgement on this step.
Header to X-Pipe Torx Bolt: 16ft lbs
Front of X-Pipe to Front Bracket: 16ft lbs
O2 Sensors: 29ft lbs
Rubber Mount to X-Pipe: 16ft lbs
Center Brace to Chassis: 16ft lbs
Slip-On Joint of X-Pipe: 16ft lbs
Connecting Pipes to X-Pipe: 16ft lbs
Step 18: Start car and inspect for leaks/rattles. If anything is found, let exhaust cool and remedy the fault.

Step 19: Reinstall all the underpanels and take car off jack stands.

Step 20: Extract MSS60 DME data to send for Evolve Automotive Tune. arrot:



That is pretty much it! Everything is very straight forward, especially when it's all in front of you. Use your imagination on how to get things aligned properly. An Impact Wrench makes a world of difference in regards to conserving your own energy. Doing this alone is very doable, but it will be much more manageable with a friend. Install took me about three hours considering I didn't know proper sizes for a lot of bolts/nuts.

I wish you the best in your install. Check out my review of the X-Pipe with dyno graphs here: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=455882
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