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      05-02-2013, 07:25 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPWINCH View Post
you wouldnt say ohlin is in the same league as JRZ?
I said don't compare KW CS or KW V3 to JRZ or Ohlins.

I would not hesitate to use JRZ or Ohlins.
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      05-02-2013, 07:41 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Raucky2000 View Post
If you want to stay in that range and not have huge rebuild costs...go w/ TCK DA and never look back. (350lb or 450lb frt and 600lb or 700lb rear springs). If you are more of a track guy and play around, go heavier springs, but if you want super smooth ride and great handling go softer. Also if you're stuffing a 10 or 10.5 wide rim on the front go with the heavier spring rates because there is so much grip with that size tire up front.
why would you say the TCK is the best? I love the reputation of TCK, especially on the e46, but my concerns are being required to run camber plates and the inherent benefits of monotube dampers over twin tubes...

am i off target?

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Originally Posted by STALKER View Post
JRZ RS1 and be done with it. Don't even compare KW CS or KW V3 to JRZ or Ohlins, not in the same league, I know cause I have had them.
i am leaning ohlins for sure, concerned about some reliability issues others have posted about on JRZ.

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Originally Posted by M3SQRD View Post
I'm running the JRZ RS1s on my M3s and the Ohlins R&T on my R56 Mini Cooper S. I've also used TCK and Moton on my M3s.

The Ohlins R&T is a great street damper whereas the RS1s are a great dual-purpose damper. You can feel the change in handling response with each "click" of the RS1s. With the Ohlins it takes multiple "clicks" to feel a change. Also, the RS1s can handle a very wide range of spring rates; based on reviews of, and the questions I've asked vendors, the Ohlins R&T apparently have a more limited range of rates (more street biased).

If you want a more track-biased setup with streetability I'd get the MCS SA damper (not out yet when I bought my sets of RS1s). Similar to the RS1 but more biased to the track. Also, you can upgrade the MCS SA dampers to other MCS damper options; e.g., have them converted to 2-way remote-reservoir dampers
great explanation, and glad that you have tried both (albeit not on the same platform). it sounds like ohlins is what i am looking for at this point.

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Originally Posted by STALKER View Post
I said don't compare KW CS or KW V3 to JRZ or Ohlins.

I would not hesitate to use JRZ or Ohlins.
i had to re-read your original post due to the way it was worded, but i got what you meant lol.

i am definitely gaining a lot of confidence in the ohlins setup. I am concerned about JRZ since a few members in the 1M forum had to send them back for multiple rebuilds and little issues, though when they are working they are top notch.
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      05-10-2013, 04:36 PM   #25
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Should have the ohlins RT's by end of May, will post full review when I've put some miles on them.
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      05-10-2013, 08:04 PM   #26
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Well I already have MCS triples for the e46 M3 so maybe MCS singles for the e92 M3s might be in order.
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      05-10-2013, 08:07 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeBMW View Post
Well I already have MCS triples for the e46 M3 so maybe MCS singles for the e92 M3s might be in order.
MCS singles are 2650 plus springs and camber plates. Would be a good choice. I have them for e46.
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      05-13-2013, 01:57 AM   #28
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Generally speaking, a higher end damper requires more maintenance. Not sure about the Ohlins but the JRZs are like a low end really nice damper. The TC Kline represents the best of a good low maintenance damper.

I like the TC Kline setup since TC Kline did the testing on an actual E9X M3 which is worth something. So you can bolt this suspension up and have 95% of the right answer.

Nothing is more frustrating than spending lots of track time finding the sweet spot...something to think about. How much time do you want to spend tuning? I would ask that during your research.
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      05-13-2013, 06:35 AM   #29
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The Ohlins R&T dampers require maintenance every 15,000 km's or 10h of
track time. What work is actually involved in the maintenance?

So far I'm loving my Ohlins, they seem to be getting even better after putting
some miles on them. Car feels superb. I debated the options quite a bit before
pulling the trigger on the Ohlins and wasn't sure how track oriented to go.
After driving the terrible roads in LA and San Francisco I can definitely say
that I wouldn't want a stiffer setup for a dual duty car and happy I opted
for the Ohlins R&T.

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      05-13-2013, 08:27 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Generally speaking, a higher end damper requires more maintenance. Not sure about the Ohlins but the JRZs are like a low end really nice damper. The TC Kline represents the best of a good low maintenance damper.

I like the TC Kline setup since TC Kline did the testing on an actual E9X M3 which is worth something. So you can bolt this suspension up and have 95% of the right answer.

Nothing is more frustrating than spending lots of track time finding the sweet spot...something to think about. How much time do you want to spend tuning? I would ask that during your research.
great points, thanks for the insight.

I did some experimenting with my KWs about a week and a half ago and was able to find a really nice balance on them and they are performing up to expectations on both the street and my most recent visit to the track.

I am trying to remind myself that it is more important for my car to be a great DD than a great track car since I spend 99.9 percent of my time driving it on the street (even though I do have quite a few events planned).

So I will be sticking with my KW, though if I could do it again, I probably would jump to ohlins.
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      05-15-2013, 03:58 PM   #31
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JRZ RS1 and Ohlins R&T are very close in damping in my opinion, with Ohlins having slightly more precision. Ohlins R&T requires significantly less damping adjustment to achieve critical damping and tightens up rather quickly with just a few clicks.
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      07-22-2013, 05:33 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
JRZ RS1 and Ohlins R&T are very close in damping in my opinion, with Ohlins having slightly more precision.
Do you mean the valving seems to be similar? I'm guessing you have not seen the internals of either....

One damper will exhibit A LOT more hysteresis than the other....
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      07-22-2013, 08:04 PM   #33
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KW CS rock for the price. Those of you hating on them and needing JRZ's must have some hella fast lap records

I have always been pleased with my KW CS.
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      07-23-2013, 01:20 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porschefile View Post
KW CS rock for the price. Those of you hating on them and needing JRZ's must have some hella fast lap records

I have always been pleased with my KW CS.
I wouldn't be surprised if 99% of this forum's aftermarket suspension setups aren't optimally set up (mine included). We just like to spend money and say we have nice stuff.
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      07-23-2013, 05:21 PM   #35
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Quote:
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I wouldn't be surprised if 99% of this forum's aftermarket suspension setups aren't optimally set up (mine included). We just like to spend money and say we have nice stuff.
True. And you do have some quick times. I just think it is weird that people are toting JRZ/Ohlins/Penske/Unobtaniums as necessary for a dual purpose car that is a compromise car to begin with. That goes for this thread and others like it.
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      07-23-2013, 05:35 PM   #36
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My MCS is gold plated. Sales guy said way better thermal stability and only added 7K to the price.
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      07-23-2013, 05:42 PM   #37
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Quote:
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My MCS is gold plated. Sales guy said way better thermal stability and only added 7K to the price.
That's a steal! But my JRZ's have thermal panels from the space shuttle to maintain ambient temps even if I wanted to drive my car on a racetrack on the sun.
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      07-23-2013, 05:43 PM   #38
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My MCS is gold plated. Sales guy said way better thermal stability and only added 7K to the price.
I would remove the fenders completely so everyone can see them as I pass by.
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      07-23-2013, 05:48 PM   #39
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I would remove the fenders completely so everyone can see them as I pass by.
Having plexiglass fenders made as we speak.
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      07-23-2013, 05:54 PM   #40
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Having plexiglass fenders made as we speak.
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      08-05-2013, 02:20 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxisMagi
The Ohlins R&T dampers require maintenance every 15,000 km's or 10h of
track time. What work is actually involved in the maintenance?

So far I'm loving my Ohlins, they seem to be getting even better after putting
some miles on them. Car feels superb. I debated the options quite a bit before
pulling the trigger on the Ohlins and wasn't sure how track oriented to go.
After driving the terrible roads in LA and San Francisco I can definitely say
that I wouldn't want a stiffer setup for a dual duty car and happy I opted
for the Ohlins R&T.

~Axis
I too am wondering about the rebuilding of these ohlins.
Esp after about 30,000kms.
What needs too be done and cost?
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      08-05-2013, 06:22 PM   #42
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Do the Ohlin's come wtih linear or progressive springs?
Do any of these come with progressive springs?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Porschefile View Post
KW CS rock for the price. Those of you hating on them and needing JRZ's must have some hella fast lap records

I have always been pleased with my KW CS.
Agreed. Sabine put them on her GT3-RS (which already comes with coils!!). I think she's a bit better driver than me.

.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      08-05-2013, 07:58 PM   #43
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Lots of options and all the brands mentioned are going to be quality. More importantly find someone willing to help set them up.

On my subaru wrx the store i had install the suspension ran cars in Targa Tasmainia.http://www.ausmotive.com/2011/11/08/...h-country.html


They offered a day working with one of thier drivers to help set them up, easy way to beat the damper learning curve.

Another option around 3k Nitron R1's

http://store.vacmotorsports.com/nitr...-1m-p2804.aspx
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      08-06-2013, 11:00 AM   #44
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Been keeping up with this thread. So basically 15k miles, ohlins need to be serviced? That means the car needs to go in the shop and on a rack for a week or two in order to have the shocks adjusted.. That's not too friendly for daily drivers
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