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      07-14-2013, 12:43 PM   #89
W Cole
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FYI to anyone else doing the swap. Bolt #1 on the rear suspension (see photo in post above) does not need to be removed. Just put two wheel lugs into the hub and use your leg or a buddy to put some downward pressure on the suspension and you should be able to get the spring out, the shorter OEM spring should go in even easier.

This bolt is a bit of a pain to line up correctly and its very easy to damage the lower control arm ball joint/bushing when re-installing so its probably best not to remove if you don't have to.

When re-tightening bolt #2.. Before starting the install measure from the center of the hub to fender at normal ride height and then mimic this measurement using a hydraulic jack to compress the suspension when tightening to avoid any undue stress on the bushing.
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      10-07-2013, 07:48 PM   #90
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How many people bought new nuts and bolts while doing the spring installed? Is there a part number list? It seems like numerous people have asked but there has been no answer. thanks!
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      10-07-2013, 09:46 PM   #91
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How many people bought new nuts and bolts while doing the spring installed? Is there a part number list? It seems like numerous people have asked but there has been no answer. thanks!
Does this help?
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      11-17-2013, 05:19 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W Cole View Post
FYI to anyone else doing the swap. Bolt #1 on the rear suspension (see photo in post above) does not need to be removed. Just put two wheel lugs into the hub and use your leg or a buddy to put some downward pressure on the suspension and you should be able to get the spring out, the shorter OEM spring should go in even easier.

This bolt is a bit of a pain to line up correctly and its very easy to damage the lower control arm ball joint/bushing when re-installing so its probably best not to remove if you don't have to.

When re-tightening bolt #2.. Before starting the install measure from the center of the hub to fender at normal ride height and then mimic this measurement using a hydraulic jack to compress the suspension when tightening to avoid any undue stress on the bushing.
I tried this method of not removing the bolt, I could not get it to work. I even broke out a small jack and jacked the suspension down to try to get the spring out, no go.

In the end I removed the bolt. 1 side took me 5 minutes to get the bolt back in. The other side took an hour!!!! That bolt is a huge pain, very easy to damage the ball joint.

The front is a breeze.
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      02-25-2014, 11:09 PM   #93
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Has anyone had issues with their headlights adjusting too high after installation? Is there a way to reset the headlight sensors? Thanks for the help.
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      02-25-2014, 11:55 PM   #94
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Has anyone had issues with their headlights adjusting too high after installation? Is there a way to reset the headlight sensors? Thanks for the help.
You most likely did not get the headlight leveling sensors oriented correctly when you reinstalled. If you search there is a thread explaining how to correct this.

With that being said, despite correctly reinstalling the headlight leveling sensors my headlights aimed too low after installing my coilovers. There is a knob on each headlight that you turn in order to adjust the height.
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      02-27-2014, 05:58 PM   #95
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I figured I had somehow messed up the rear level sensor. I just wanted to do some searching/asking for help before getting crazy. Thanks for your help W Cole.
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      04-18-2014, 02:26 PM   #96
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Does anyone know the Wrench socket size of the TOP HAT NUT?

thinking about making a tool like a fellow forum member robc1976 did in this picture
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      04-18-2014, 02:39 PM   #97
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Quote:
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Does anyone know the Wrench socket size of the TOP HAT NUT?

thinking about making a tool like a fellow forum member robc1976 did in this picture
This tool has a cutout and might work.

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00141033/...FQ2hOgoda2oAJw

Edit: I think the nut is actually 22mm. I used a plumbers adjustable wrench at the time, but will try to source or fabricate a tool when I change springs next month.
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      04-18-2014, 03:18 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by adc View Post
This tool has a cutout and might work.

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00141033/...FQ2hOgoda2oAJw

Edit: I think the nut is actually 22mm. I used a plumbers adjustable wrench at the time, but will try to source or fabricate a tool when I change springs next month.
Thanks!

I'm planning on picking up a cheap socket to cut open
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      04-18-2014, 03:49 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmntmn View Post
Thanks!

I'm planning on picking up a cheap socket to cut open
I just ordered a 22mm oxygen sensor offset socket, which looks like it might do the trick. $9 on amazon. I'll post back here after I receive it.
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      04-18-2014, 06:36 PM   #100
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Quote:
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I just ordered a 22mm oxygen sensor offset socket, which looks like it might do the trick. $9 on amazon. I'll post back here after I receive it.
sounds good! please keep me updated!
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      04-19-2014, 07:30 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmntmn View Post
sounds good! please keep me updated!
Just found this: http://www.ecstuning.com/News/Schwab...Kit/ES2652183/
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      05-09-2014, 12:00 AM   #102
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Just wanted to say thanks for the DIY. Did my springs, camber plates, and rear dinan mounts over two evenings, a grand total of about 5 hours (not working particularly fast). I think I spent more time finding the right size socket or wrench than actually working. This car has every metric size under the sun! I'm used to working on Japanese cars, where everything is 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, or 21mm.

FYI, on my car, 08 w/edc, the front strut nuts were 21mm.
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      06-28-2014, 03:27 PM   #103
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I just did the rears on my car, took around 2.5 hours with a second pair of hands helping. I found it easier to use 3 jacks: one to raise the car, one to raise/lower the suspension arm as needed, and the third to raise or lower the disc brake (suspension hub) as needed.

The difficulty came from the fact that you need to adjust the last bolt in 2 directions, left right and up down. So while I could get enough leverage with a wrench, I couldn't maintain the support long enough to line the holes correctly.

With the 3 jacks in place, all I needed was a big old screwdriver to position the holes.

Just did the fronts, took again about 2-2.5 hours. I used this tool: http://www.ecstuning.com/News/Schwab...Kit/ES2652181/
21mm for my 2009 with EDC.

Didn't get an EDC fault, but I think I messed up a brake sensor because i got the yellow car-on-the-list symbol and I noticed one of them hanging at the front. I'll check it next week when I do track pads.
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      07-31-2014, 03:43 PM   #104
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Spring Compressors aren't required. I recommend that you keep tension on the front struts/springs until the top bolt is out, then slowly lower it down. There is no drama or surprises when doing it this way.

Also, if the strut is not popping out, turn the wheel so that the front of the brake disc turns in and it will come right out.

I honestly found the front to be much easier than the rears. First time around took around two hours, if I do another set it would likely be done in under an hour.
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      07-31-2014, 06:43 PM   #105
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Spring Compressors aren't required. I recommend that you keep tension on the front struts/springs until the top bolt is out, then slowly lower it down. There is no drama or surprises when doing it this way.

Also, if the strut is not popping out, turn the wheel so that the front of the brake disc turns in and it will come right out.

I honestly found the front to be much easier than the rears. First time around took around two hours, if I do another set it would likely be done in under an hour.
Still not sure how you can take the front spring assembly out from under the fender without the spring being compressed. I had to compress them at least 2-3" otherwise the upper spring loop wouldn't clear the fender lip.
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      07-31-2014, 07:40 PM   #106
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Still not sure how you can take the front spring assembly out from under the fender without the spring being compressed. I had to compress them at least 2-3" otherwise the upper spring loop wouldn't clear the fender lip.
Same here. Are some removing the stut and spring from the car with the top hat already off. How do they clear the fender?? I want to know the secret. Does turning the wheels help?

Last edited by W Cole; 07-31-2014 at 08:04 PM.
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      08-08-2014, 02:24 PM   #107
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You have to turn the wheel, you can bend compress the spring slightly by hand which will clear the fender well completely and come out towards you.
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      08-08-2014, 02:25 PM   #108
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Also, while it's up in the air, you can turn the steering rack by hand with the brake disc.
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      08-08-2014, 07:49 PM   #109
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Also, while it's up in the air, you can turn the steering rack by hand with the brake disc.
Thanks for the info!
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      09-05-2014, 05:19 PM   #110
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Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but this doesnt seem to difficult to diy. I dont get why shops quote me 500-600 dollars!! blows my mind!
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