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      07-02-2013, 01:55 AM   #111
breakey12345
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Finally I buy new one from ebay.com, I pay 811 us $ (id is bmwoemparts call us toll free @ 1-888-848-9405). I replace the throttle and I dont have any problem with this fucking part. Dont buy use part. Thi is my mistake, I trust a guy from England who sell me failed actuator. I lost time and money.

Now I have to repair my headers. The welding flange is unsolder ......
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      07-02-2013, 06:49 AM   #112
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Finally I buy new one from ebay.com, I pay 811 us $ (id is bmwoemparts call us toll free @ 1-888-848-9405). I replace the throttle and I dont have any problem with this fucking part. Dont buy use part. Thi is my mistake, I trust a guy from England who sell me failed actuator. I lost time and money.

Now I have to repair my headers. The welding flange is unsolder ......
Didn't have to reset anything?
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      07-03-2013, 12:10 AM   #113
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No reset is required. Just plug and play after four hours of hard work. Good luck
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      07-25-2013, 10:20 PM   #114
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Bank 1 going out at just under 49k. Letting dealer do this one, but if 2nd one hoe I'll do it myself. Thanks!
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      07-25-2013, 11:00 PM   #115
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Bank 1 going out at just under 49k. Letting dealer do this one, but if 2nd one hoe I'll do it myself. Thanks!
I wouldn't even call it hard work. Half a day.

Definitely let me know if it goes out and you end up with questions.
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      07-26-2013, 08:46 AM   #116
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If a person is at all handy, I'd say 2-3 hours

Just did bank 2 and it took just under 2 hours
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      09-22-2013, 06:49 PM   #117
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Guys I need help. I have the passenger side throttle actuator unbolted but how do you take the solid metal link (connected with ball fittings) off the actuator to take it out?

The looks to be a nut on the actuator end of the link but I can't seem to loosen it.

Need help.

Thanks,

Steve
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      09-22-2013, 07:04 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by stevehifi View Post
Guys I need help. I have the passenger side throttle actuator unbolted but how do you take the solid metal link (connected with ball fittings) off the actuator to take it out?

The looks to be a nut on the actuator end of the link but I can't seem to loosen it.

Need help.

Thanks,

Steve
Don't take the metal arm off the actuator, but use a pair of pliers and carefully pop the plastic ball link off the ball on the arm.
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      09-22-2013, 07:06 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehifi View Post
Guys I need help. I have the passenger side throttle actuator unbolted but how do you take the solid metal link (connected with ball fittings) off the actuator to take it out?

The looks to be a nut on the actuator end of the link but I can't seem to loosen it.

Need help.

Thanks,

Steve
Pop the ball off. I used the plastic trim remover, but if you are careful you can use a flat head.
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      09-22-2013, 07:09 PM   #120
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thanks on which end? the actuator end or the throttle rail end?
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      09-22-2013, 07:21 PM   #121
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nevermind got it
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      09-22-2013, 07:45 PM   #122
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nevermind got it
Cool. Congrats on almost being done!
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      09-22-2013, 08:10 PM   #123
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so if I put the new part in and install everything back again, do I need to do anything
to the car after or should it just work as is? Will the code clear and everything will be back
to normal? Or is there some special diagnostic that needs to be run with a special BMW tool
to reinitialize the system properly and adjust the new actuator.
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      09-22-2013, 08:20 PM   #124
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By the way I took a picture of the inside of the actuator, initially there was some resistance in turning the gears (probably what threw the code) but after some back and forth the gears started to turn. You can see the powdery deposit (probably a gear wearing down). I wonder if I can just clean the gears up (maybe lubricate them) and reinstall it or should I even bother?
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      09-22-2013, 09:05 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehifi View Post
so if I put the new part in and install everything back again, do I need to do anything
to the car after or should it just work as is? Will the code clear and everything will be back
to normal? Or is there some special diagnostic that needs to be run with a special BMW tool
to reinitialize the system properly and adjust the new actuator.
I actually cleared the code, but people have had success just starting it up. The codes went away for them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehifi View Post
By the way I took a picture of the inside of the actuator, initially there was some resistance in turning the gears (probably what threw the code) but after some back and forth the gears started to turn. You can see the powdery deposit (probably a gear wearing down). I wonder if I can just clean the gears up (maybe lubricate them) and reinstall it or should I even bother?
I had the same residue too. But who know if that would fix it. No one knows how sensitive it actually is.
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      09-24-2013, 11:32 PM   #126
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Hi Guys,

I installed the new actuator tonite and took the car for a spin (it runs great!). Unfortunately I have still have a check engine light - INCREASED EMISSIONS. Does this mean I still have an issue or is this the same code that needs to be cleared?
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      09-25-2013, 06:44 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehifi View Post
Hi Guys,

I installed the new actuator tonite and took the car for a spin (it runs great!). Unfortunately I have still have a check engine light - INCREASED EMISSIONS. Does this mean I still have an issue or is this the same code that needs to be cleared?
If it's running fine, most likely a code that needs to be cleared.
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      09-25-2013, 10:26 AM   #128
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My bank 1 is going out at 30k miles. Car is Currently at the dealership and waiting for my warranty company for approval.
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      09-25-2013, 11:00 AM   #129
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UPDATE: After driving the car a third time, the check engine light is gone! The code must
have finally cleared after the engine self-diagnosed itself.

thanks to everyone on this thread who has helped me. Changing the actuator myself, saved
me alot of $$$!
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      09-25-2013, 11:30 AM   #130
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UPDATE: After driving the car a third time, the check engine light is gone! The code must
have finally cleared after the engine self-diagnosed itself.

thanks to everyone on this thread who has helped me. Changing the actuator myself, saved
me alot of $$$!
Very nice! Congrats on having your car back on the road
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      09-25-2013, 12:57 PM   #131
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It looks like I have both actuators going out. My car went into limp mode last night, but when I pulled the codes this morning, I am now seeing errors on both sides (originally just bank 1 a week ago when this first happened)

I have these two:
CDBF - throttle valve actuator CAN message bank 1
2B16 - throttle valve actuator control monitor bank 2

I'm getting set to order 2 actuators and diy.
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      09-25-2013, 01:50 PM   #132
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It looks like I have both actuators going out. My car went into limp mode last night, but when I pulled the codes this morning, I am now seeing errors on both sides (originally just bank 1 a week ago when this first happened)

I have these two:
CDBF - throttle valve actuator CAN message bank 1
2B16 - throttle valve actuator control monitor bank 2

I'm getting set to order 2 actuators and diy.
Maybe try to clear the codes first? Or you could just disconnect the battery and see if it goes away (unlikely). I always kind of find it hard to believe that both would fail, but maybe it's just a coincidence (not the good kind).

But DIY is very straight forward though, you can PM me if you have any issues.
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