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      06-11-2013, 11:03 AM   #23
mdosu
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I would strongly advise doing the whole hood with the dome if you can swing the extra cash. Doing so will make the hood look so complete when it's clean or dirty. Also, it just become so much easier to clean, wax and polish. Most people don't realizes having a clear bra can require two different cleaning and waxing problems. Very few cleaning and waxing products can be used on the films. You have to use a sealant for the film surfaces (not wax) for example.

thanks, will consider. I'm okay with the extra step of using additional products for the film sufaces though.
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      06-11-2013, 11:08 AM   #24
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thanks, will consider. I'm okay with the extra step of using additional products for the film sufaces though.
It's just hard to wash, wax part of the hood while trying not to get film products on the painted surface and not to get painted surface products on the film surface especially while spraying water during rinse.

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      06-11-2013, 03:08 PM   #25
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Since I've never had any car with a clear bra, I'm a noob at this, but what do you wash it with if you can't use soap for paint? I was planning on getting the Ammo NYC paint regimen to wash my car with.
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      06-11-2013, 04:05 PM   #26
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Since I've never had any car with a clear bra, I'm a noob at this, but what do you wash it with if you can't use soap for paint? I was planning on getting the Ammo NYC paint regimen to wash my car with.
For washing, you wash it as your would your paint. It's no different. The difference is when you go wax or clay your car, you use some different items to do that.
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      06-11-2013, 05:48 PM   #27
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thanks, will consider. I'm okay with the extra step of using additional products for the film sufaces though.
Having the front bumper repainted first?
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      06-11-2013, 07:54 PM   #28
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Having the front bumper repainted first?
not needed. I only have a few chips.
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      06-12-2013, 08:04 AM   #29
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Since I've never had any car with a clear bra, I'm a noob at this, but what do you wash it with if you can't use soap for paint? I was planning on getting the Ammo NYC paint regimen to wash my car with.
I use Xpel non-rinse wash solution for the entire car. Great for the film and won't harm paint. For waxing, I use Expel sealant for the film and P21S 100% Carnuba wax which is great for paint and won't harm the film. A lot wash and wax products have alcohol which will damage, discolor or crack the film. So, you have to choose the right products very carefully. Avoid any product with dyes, alcohol, perfumes, etc.


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      06-21-2013, 08:16 AM   #30
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The new top coated films such as Suntek and Xpel Ultimate do not have issues withy alcohols. So no need to worry about the products you use on them... and no need to buy a special car wash soap.
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      06-22-2013, 07:18 PM   #31
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I just did a partial 3M, got it from Raja here on the forum and installed it myself. Came out great. It's not my first time doing this so I kinda know what I'm doing. Definitely recommend getting a bra
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      08-20-2013, 07:39 PM   #32
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I'm still debating the value vs risk of getting chips to clear coat. I'm planning to just do front bumper, mirrors, and maybe the side skirts. I don't want any lines on my hood so I'm not doing partial fender, and it's . I was quoted $350 for bumper, $900 for full hood and side fenders ($600 for just hood), $100 for door cups, $100 for mirror caps, didn't quote side skirts.

Looks like for 3 year warranty against coloring they use eXpel and for 10 yr warranty they use 3M. So if it only lasts 3 years, it seems like a lot of money you could just spend with good wax and buffing every 6 months, maybe touch up work.

I figure $450 is worth covering the major areas of destruction (bumper/mirrors), from my experience on CA roads. My previous hood got some nicks, but only a few big chips over 2.5 years, so not worth it to me, for a lease. I am worried about that M dome sticking up and getting whacked.

What's your experience with most likely point of destruction on highway driving?

Also, I'm leasing and can't imagine keeping this post warranty. I have a problem with making a car payment and paying for repairs on the vehicle. Plus I imagine the gas mileage will start to bug me with newer cars doing much better.
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      08-21-2013, 11:53 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flea333 View Post
I'm still debating the value vs risk of getting chips to clear coat. I'm planning to just do front bumper, mirrors, and maybe the side skirts. I don't want any lines on my hood so I'm not doing partial fender, and it's . I was quoted $350 for bumper, $900 for full hood and side fenders ($600 for just hood), $100 for door cups, $100 for mirror caps, didn't quote side skirts.

Looks like for 3 year warranty against coloring they use eXpel and for 10 yr warranty they use 3M. So if it only lasts 3 years, it seems like a lot of money you could just spend with good wax and buffing every 6 months, maybe touch up work.

I figure $450 is worth covering the major areas of destruction (bumper/mirrors), from my experience on CA roads. My previous hood got some nicks, but only a few big chips over 2.5 years, so not worth it to me, for a lease. I am worried about that M dome sticking up and getting whacked.

What's your experience with most likely point of destruction on highway driving?

Also, I'm leasing and can't imagine keeping this post warranty. I have a problem with making a car payment and paying for repairs on the vehicle. Plus I imagine the gas mileage will start to bug me with newer cars doing much better.
I say if it is a lease, then don't bother. After a few years, you are returning it anyway. I'd only clear bra the car if you plan on keeping it.

If you do want to do it, the front bumper is the area that is the most hit. But when you return the car, the dealer will repaint the front bumper anyway to resell it.
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      08-21-2013, 05:11 PM   #34
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I say if it is a lease, then don't bother. After a few years, you are returning it anyway. I'd only clear bra the car if you plan on keeping it.

If you do want to do it, the front bumper is the area that is the most hit. But when you return the car, the dealer will repaint the front bumper anyway to resell it.
Thanks for the advice. I might buy the car and keep for 4 years, not sure though with M4 coming out and higher efficiency I'll probably want that. Anyway, I like my car to stay nice and hate putting scratches in it. I'd like the piece of mind to cover the nasty spots from scratching and damage.

Or should I just keep it clean and get a touch up pen for dings?
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      08-21-2013, 05:35 PM   #35
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Thanks for the advice. I might buy the car and keep for 4 years, not sure though with M4 coming out and higher efficiency I'll probably want that. Anyway, I like my car to stay nice and hate putting scratches in it. I'd like the piece of mind to cover the nasty spots from scratching and damage.

Or should I just keep it clean and get a touch up pen for dings?
It's up to you. Touch up pens are never very neat and look terrible if it isn't done cleanly. I'd rather clear bra the front than have to deal with touch up paint.

I purchased my M3 pre-owned and had the hood repainted because of rock chips. No touch up paint will make chips look good.
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      08-21-2013, 07:31 PM   #36
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It's up to you. Touch up pens are never very neat and look terrible if it isn't done cleanly. I'd rather clear bra the front than have to deal with touch up paint.

I purchased my M3 pre-owned and had the hood repainted because of rock chips. No touch up paint will make chips look good.
Agree.. If I can get them under $500 to do bumper and side fenders I'll just leave it at that. If not, just bumper.
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      08-27-2013, 04:14 AM   #37
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I just sent mine in today and got the bumper done with 3M film. I was goin to get the side rocker panels done as well since dirt sticks to them most, but I used this wax spray stuff to clean my car (while it was dirty) and apparently scratched the clear coat in two places. FML.

So I'm super stoked to have the bumper protected. But can't cough up the 2k for the rest of the car on a lease. Planning on using that clear coat stuff for the rest then clean it regularly.
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      08-27-2013, 04:55 PM   #38
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Yup, did the same thing. Love it too.
Wow so he only keyed the front end? Lucky bastard! What'd you do to piss him off so much, rocket passed him? Haha.
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      08-28-2013, 04:32 AM   #39
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I just got my bumper done only, but I'm thinking of doing the hood, side panels, and rocker panels. I like the safety in knowing. However, I used my shirt to remove a bug on the coating to see how it came off and I see all these fine scratch marks on the coating. WTF is that all about?! If that coating scratches up that easily it will look all cloudy... I hope this goes away with wash or something!.

Second issue -- there are portions of uncovered car. So how the heck do I treat those little gaps now? I noticed dirt had already managed to smudge itself into one of the edge lines by the headlight. The other part they didn't wrap around was the very bottom edge of the front bumper... wtf... that must get hammered with rocks. Otherwise they did a great job of making it unnoticeable.

Anyway, it's gonna cost me another $1100 to do hood, side panels, and rocker panels. So I don't know if it's worth it if there's any reduction in quality of the finish.

Third thing - do any of you recommend doing that clear coat opti-coat before the clear bra? I wish I had because now I have those little exposed pieces and I don't know if I can touch opti-coat on clear bra... maybe it doesn't matter, but might make it f'd up to take off.
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      08-28-2013, 09:50 AM   #40
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I paid $2700 to have my bumper, full hood, fenders, mirrors wrapped. The film they used was prestige clear guard.

Maybe it's just me being anal, but I would never use my shirt to remove bug stains on the car. Spray it down liberally with quickdetail, soak that shit in (i use a mixture of ONR/water) and wipe with a soft Microfiber towel. bird poop slides right off.

for the dirt getting into the edge lines, I haven't experienced that problem, but I'm curious what you're saying, can you post a picture? due to curves on the bumper, you can't have full 100% coverage. Wrap a piece of paper around a tennis ball, and you'll know why.
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      09-05-2013, 04:52 AM   #41
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I had a dent repair guy tell me the 3M clear coat is as good as clear bra. Anybody have experience with this as opposed to paying to get clear bra?

He recommended this because I have this minor clear coat scratch I put in with a rag and he said this will fill it in, but the clear bra will bubble.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-90000-Paint...paint+defender
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      09-08-2013, 12:24 AM   #42
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As per the post above, I think that most of us trust 3M … if so this is worth checking out!

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      11-06-2013, 12:24 PM   #43
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Sorry but the 3M spray on is garbage IMO
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      11-07-2013, 11:00 PM   #44
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I had my '08 M3 Xpel clear bra done as soon as I purchased it in Europe while I was stationed there. I got lucky though, the Xpel dealer from "Paintshield" in England would give me 50% discount for being military and no VAT tax so it cost me about what it would have in the States.

So I opted to get the entire hood, front bumper/grill, L/R front side skirts and the carbon fiber roof all done. Oh and both coupe doors, headlight lenses and A-pillers.

It's the best investment for longivity since I plan on keeping this car as long as it'll last. I've had two door dings on the passenger door that the "dent doctor" there pulled and there was no damage to the paint, I've had a car wash hand wond hit the hood (long embarrasing story how it happened) and it put a crease on the hood. Had that pulled by the body shop and there was no need to respray the hood.

Now I live in the dusty, rocky South West where I've goen through 3 windshields in 2.5 years. On some road outings with other co-workers, the gravel that gets kicked up would have sand-blasted my front bumper/grill, headlights and any other painted surface. The Xpel on the front bumper is a little dull and slightly sand blasted but the paint behind it is like brand new.

I also had Xpel repalce for free the hood and left side skirt sheets at the local Albuquerque Audi dealer (Xpel dealer in town) because Xpel's clear bra cleaner (white bottle stuff) is shit and it etched the plastic. So took pictures, contacted Xpel, had the Audi dealer confirm it and Xpel replaced it for free.
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