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      06-18-2013, 03:17 PM   #89
Tim B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malek@MRF View Post
Your car might be one of the cars that needs the special differential fluid from BMW. Some differentials are very noisy, and there is a different fluid that has a friction modifier to reduce the noise. If you used that Redline oil for your differential, that is probably another cause of noise, and now with the more solid bushings you are hearing it more.

Switch your differential fluid to the friction modified fluid and give that a go. The car should not be as noisy as you are describing it.
Glad to hear it shouldn't be as loud as Shady is describing, as I just got mine in from Turner today......subframe & differential bushings. Hopefully my dealer will install them tomorrow. Malek, should the dealer have the tools for this? My tech there acted like he didn't know if they had the tools(to remove/install bushings for an M3) for this right off hand.....I thought that was a bit odd And how long should he take to do both sets of bushings do you think? Thanks.
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      06-18-2013, 04:06 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim B. View Post
Glad to hear it shouldn't be as loud as Shady is describing, as I just got mine in from Turner today......subframe & differential bushings. Hopefully my dealer will install them tomorrow. Malek, should the dealer have the tools for this? My tech there acted like he didn't know if they had the tools(to remove/install bushings for an M3) for this right off hand.....I thought that was a bit odd And how long should he take to do both sets of bushings do you think? Thanks.
It took my shop 3 hours to do the diff bushings and he didn't have the tool. He used a "disposable" tool clamped on the end of the bushing and tapped/hammered the old one out.

If you are doing the subframe bushings at the same time he can drop the subframe and do the diff bushings out of the car I believe and the total job in and out would take probably 7-8 hours.

My shop did not use/make a jig to replace subframe or have the tool to remove the stock subframe bushing (used a drill/air hammer).

Malek has said that you must use a jig or frame machine to ensure that the subframe goes back in straight. He said there is enough play to put it together "off" center. I didn't do it this way and wonder if I have any issues.

My shop did say that it probably wasn't necessary since when putting the subframe back in place if you don't put it in straight the pins would push the bushings back out.

However, with that said, I tend to trust Malek more since he has more experience working on the car. I don't know if I have any ill effects from the install but the car seems to track and drive straight. I wonder if Malek could comment if I have anything to worry about due to the way it was installed. Thanks.

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      06-18-2013, 06:29 PM   #91
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The jig I made was a 2 1/2" Black 3 pipe about 4 inches long, 1/2 all thread, 4 2" washers, 2 1 1/2" washers, 4 19mm nuts, and an old oil filter socket that goes over the pipe. The removal was very easy may be 15 minutes all three, putting them back was easy except one that gave me a little problem.
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      06-18-2013, 06:30 PM   #92
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Most of the time was spent taking it apart and putting it back together.
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      06-18-2013, 07:01 PM   #93
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The BMW Motorsport subframe mounts that Turner sells may be a good alternative for people who want stiff and strong subframe bushings but not so much the noises. They are harder than the stock M bushings but made of rubber. Also no need to lube like polyurethane bushings.
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      06-19-2013, 06:25 AM   #94
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No need to lube poly MOUNTS like the subframe and diff, at least based on my experience of running them for years in my E36M3. You may need to lube poly BUSHINGS. The poly rear trailing arm bushings in my E36M3 squeaked a little in cold and/or cool/damp weather despite regreasing with marine grease, though I have never had any squeaks from my poly front control arm bushings.
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      06-19-2013, 08:18 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alarroyo View Post
The jig I made was a 2 1/2" Black 3 pipe about 4 inches long, 1/2 all thread, 4 2" washers, 2 1 1/2" washers, 4 19mm nuts, and an old oil filter socket that goes over the pipe. The removal was very easy may be 15 minutes all three, putting them back was easy except one that gave me a little problem.
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Most of the time was spent taking it apart and putting it back together.
Awesome! Thank you very much for sharing. Did you use the same jig on the front bushing as well?

Curiously, how might you tackle the subframe bushings if you were to do that?
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      06-19-2013, 09:28 AM   #96
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That jig worked for the front differential and the upper differential bushing, no issues it looked a little big but it work unless you can find a 2 1/4 pipe. If I ever do the subframe bushings I'll try this easy to make jig, http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=643435&page=2
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      06-19-2013, 09:29 AM   #97
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It can be done all you need is patience and eventually you'll save a lot of money.
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      06-19-2013, 01:53 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniechin View Post
It took my shop 3 hours to do the diff bushings and he didn't have the tool. He used a "disposable" tool clamped on the end of the bushing and tapped/hammered the old one out.

If you are doing the subframe bushings at the same time he can drop the subframe and do the diff bushings out of the car I believe and the total job in and out would take probably 7-8 hours.

My shop did not use/make a jig to replace subframe or have the tool to remove the stock subframe bushing (used a drill/air hammer).

Malek has said that you must use a jig or frame machine to ensure that the subframe goes back in straight. He said there is enough play to put it together "off" center. I didn't do it this way and wonder if I have any issues.

My shop did say that it probably wasn't necessary since when putting the subframe back in place if you don't put it in straight the pins would push the bushings back out.

However, with that said, I tend to trust Malek more since he has more experience working on the car. I don't know if I have any ill effects from the install but the car seems to track and drive straight. I wonder if Malek could comment if I have anything to worry about due to the way it was installed. Thanks.

Vin
Vin,

To drop the sub-frame out and do the job that way, it will take approximately 12 hours total as the car has to be aligned again as well.

It's definitely recommended that the frame go in indexed properly with respect to the front axle and laterally. However, if match marks are used before the frame is removed from the car (BMW does ensure the frame is perfectly positioned at the factory) then you can use this technique to get it back into the same position as before.

When my sub-frame, differential and mounts broke at 3,xxx miles, the dealer replaced the sub-frame, diff and miscellaneous components, however they attempted to align the car 3 times and failed each and every time. Not to my surprise, the frame was not indexed correctly and I had to end up doing it and all was well from then on out.
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      06-19-2013, 03:20 PM   #99
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Thanks so much Malek. You are a wealth of knowledge.

I didn't realign my car because none of the arms were moved and the subframe came out as one single unit so I thought the alignment wouldn't be out of whack (assuming the subframe was put back properly - which I think now could have been done incorrectly (without markings or jig)).

I will align the car to see if everything is OK and if not I guess you would have to have a frame straightening machine to get everything back into place? Any other suggestions to check this?

Thanks again for all the help and information.

Vin
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      08-05-2013, 08:36 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malek@MRF View Post
Vin,

To drop the sub-frame out and do the job that way, it will take approximately 12 hours total as the car has to be aligned again as well.

It's definitely recommended that the frame go in indexed properly with respect to the front axle and laterally. However, if match marks are used before the frame is removed from the car (BMW does ensure the frame is perfectly positioned at the factory) then you can use this technique to get it back into the same position as before.

When my sub-frame, differential and mounts broke at 3,xxx miles, the dealer replaced the sub-frame, diff and miscellaneous components, however they attempted to align the car 3 times and failed each and every time. Not to my surprise, the frame was not indexed correctly and I had to end up doing it and all was well from then on out.

Malek,

I just ordered the TMS solid delrin diff mounts. How many hours will it take to install?
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      08-06-2013, 07:48 PM   #101
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I guess BMW can never get subframes right...
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      10-09-2013, 06:02 PM   #102
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An update for the community on the progress. This "package" will be ready to go for all E9x platforms in the following 2-3 weeks with various options on Sub-Frame upgrades and reinforcement.

For now, here are a few pictures of the MRF Engineering Motorsport E9x axle carrier bushings.





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      10-10-2013, 10:48 PM   #103
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An update for the community on the progress. This "package" will be ready to go for all E9x platforms in the following 2-3 weeks with various options on Sub-Frame upgrades and reinforcement.

For now, here are a few pictures of the MRF Engineering Motorsport E9x axle carrier bushings.





Sweet thanks for keeping us updated
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      10-11-2013, 09:53 AM   #104
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