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      05-31-2013, 08:55 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSure03 View Post
This looks like the perfect excuse to replace my shift knob which looks like it has a small air bubble in it or something. Anyone know if leather is the only option for boot material (sticking with the F10 knob)?
From BMW, yes - the boot material is limited to the leather version that comes on the F10 M5.

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      05-31-2013, 09:44 AM   #134
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I installed the M5 knob on Wed. Although I like the weight of the knob, it' so short that I now find shifting uncomfortable because the M3's armrest is so high. In any event, I purchased a used OEM boot/knob on eBay which I will install tomorrow.
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      05-31-2013, 11:23 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NA V8 View Post
I installed the M5 knob on Wed. Although I like the weight of the knob, it' so short that I now find shifting uncomfortable because the M3's armrest is so high. In any event, I purchased a used OEM boot/knob on eBay which I will install tomorrow.
I hear you, feel the same way! So you're going back to OEM?
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      05-31-2013, 01:15 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Tanglewood View Post
I hear you, feel the same way! So you're going back to OEM?
Yes.
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      06-03-2013, 01:11 AM   #137
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I cut the boot too short on mine. So if any of you want to buy mine for a project, PM me a offer. It's brand new but like I said, I cut the leather boot too short. = (
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      06-05-2013, 03:11 PM   #138
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Another successful install. I combined all the methods to be thorough - glue, trim, fold, stuff. Also found it helpful to install th boot with the center console out of the car then put it all back in as one piece.
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      06-13-2013, 09:48 PM   #139
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Pulled the trigger on the F10 M5 knob, plus UUC SSK + DSSR. I think the parts are all going to come in only in a month's time. UUC items have shipped and therefore it will likely arrive first.

Will update on project. I think i will need to try out a 'temp' install on the amount of boot to trim as the UUC SSK is height adjustable.
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      06-17-2013, 08:55 PM   #140
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I recently swapped out the ZHP knob for the M5 knob. It's so nice to have that light back!
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      07-08-2013, 09:17 PM   #141
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Has anyone considered a method for adding weight to the original M3 shift knob?

Tanglewood and NA V8, that might be a solution to lack of weight.
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      07-08-2013, 11:54 PM   #142
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Replacement complete. I did not use glue and see little chance of the popping out. I didn't trim the boot; I only cut the slits and tucked. Pic coming.
Attached Images
 

Last edited by L4ces; 07-09-2013 at 12:05 AM.
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      07-31-2013, 05:01 PM   #143
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Help

Need help attaching the m3 plastic base to the new m5 leather and knob. Any suggestions or tips to get this done
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      08-01-2013, 02:04 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMRT_SG*E92 View Post
Need help attaching the m3 plastic base to the new m5 leather and knob. Any suggestions or tips to get this done
Did you read any part of this post? At all?
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      08-01-2013, 02:10 PM   #145
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done

lol i read it. it went on pefectly i did the tuck method. ty
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      08-02-2013, 12:23 PM   #146
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I'm going to have to redo mine

I used the glue method (Loctite), and a corner is starting to come off. I also have some excess material. I'm thinking about just doing the tuck method, without trimming. Will I have too much material where I will have to trim? I feel like the alcantra is slightly thicker than the leather.

Those who tucked, did you really have to jam the boot ring in there to make it fit?









Quote:
Originally Posted by mdosu View Post
sorry...slight thread jack, but thanks for the pictures and instructions. I followed it but installed the F30 M Peformance knob instead.

thanks, again.

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      08-02-2013, 01:08 PM   #147
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I did the tuck method without trimming away excess. No glue nor fancy clamps... just cut slits and tucked away. So far so good.
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      08-14-2013, 11:32 AM   #148
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Thanks for everyone's input--just did the same last night... some notes:
1) Took me 2 hours. I did spend quite a bit of time scraping off the excess glue/stuck leather bits off of the M3 base ring.
2) Hobby knife/X-acto knife helped immensely to separate M3 boot from M3 ring
3) Glue is indeed unnecessary
4) To remove the knob without driving my fist into my face, I found this works quite well: sitting in driver's seat, right hand grasping the knob, pistol-grip style (like how one would grab a bottle of water when taking a sip). Left hand forms a "T" over top of knob. Trans in 2nd gear. One mildly swift jerk upwards with the right hand; left hand used as a brake with half the power of the right hand to push down in case knob were to fly off. Perfect! If you're a leftie, sit in the passenger seat, trans in 6th, reverse hand orientation.
5) There's a lot more material on the M5 boot than the M3 boot, so it's ok to cut the holes in the boot higher up without fear of messing up the new M5 boot
6) The M5 knob feels only slightly heavier than the M3 knob; however, it's just enough mass to make shifting a LOT smoother as everyone else here has described. It makes me want to find a lead slug and somehow attach it to the inside of the knob to add even more counterweighting!
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      11-11-2013, 11:20 AM   #149
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Recently installed an F10 knob I purchased from another member on here in my E92 this weekend. Here are my initial thoughts:

-Stack height of the knob is about 1-2 inches shorter than OEM, which also reduces the throw from gear to gear.
-Effort from gear to gear is 10% more at most.
-The weighted knob has removed most, if not all of the "resistance" the oem shifter would give with the 1-2 and 2-3 gear shifts.
-100% oem fit/finish, including the lit shift pattern.
-BMW should have equipped this knob from the factory.


*Side note: I recently drained the factory manual trans fluid out in favor for fresh Redline MTL about 500 miles ago. It improved shift feel, however I still had some resistance from 2nd and 3rd gears willing to mesh at times.
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