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      03-15-2012, 03:49 PM   #67
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For those of you who've done this install on cars with EDC, do we need to scribe the orientation of the strut during disassembly? Guess I'm just asking if the EDC motor can be reinstalled incorrectly.
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      03-16-2012, 01:15 AM   #68
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Nope. The EDC connector inside the strut/shock shaft can be freely rotated.
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      03-25-2012, 10:08 PM   #69
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I did this install over the weekend (h&r race springs), pretty easy job but now there is a very noticeable sort of clunking sound on every bump coming from the front of the car. at first, i kind of thought i might not have shut the hood all the way. did this happen to anyone else? any ideas?
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      03-26-2012, 01:28 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaKlix View Post
I did this install over the weekend (h&r race springs), pretty easy job but now there is a very noticeable sort of clunking sound on every bump coming from the front of the car. at first, i kind of thought i might not have shut the hood all the way. did this happen to anyone else? any ideas?
I would check and make sure that all the nuts and bolts are fully tightened in the correct position.
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      03-26-2012, 06:36 AM   #71
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+1 on what Richard said.

In addition, check if the springs are locked in correctly. I just experienced the same issue after installing H&R springs for my buddy's 328, we ended up taking the car to the dealership since we cant figure out what's wrong, and the Tech found out the springs weren't locked in.

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I did this install over the weekend (h&r race springs), pretty easy job but now there is a very noticeable sort of clunking sound on every bump coming from the front of the car. at first, i kind of thought i might not have shut the hood all the way. did this happen to anyone else? any ideas?
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      03-26-2012, 07:03 AM   #72
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Thanks for the quick responses. I actually did the job basically twice because of the noise, used a new torque wrench to tighten everything and used blue loctite on every bolt. 42 lb-ft on the anti sway bar and 47 on the top of the strut. I will do it again though and see if that helps. I'm a little nervous about pulling them off and putting them back on so many times, where can i order replacements from?

Thanks again, much appreciated.
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      03-26-2012, 12:09 PM   #73
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Here's a bit of an update that may help diagnose the problem: the noise is only present at lower speeds, 40 MPH seems to be the threshold. Above 40 there's no sound at all, what would be the likely culprit?
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      03-28-2012, 07:11 PM   #74
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Pretty bad ass that I read this DIY to check out the M3 procedure, now that I picked up an M3... and it references back to MY DIY that I did in 2006!!

Great DIY, thanks.
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      03-28-2012, 11:15 PM   #75
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      04-15-2012, 10:39 PM   #76
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This DIY is the bomb! And much safer. I finished in 4.5 hours. But it was a Dinan Stage II so I had to change out the front strut mounts, replace the front sway bar, and replace the rear shock mounts. I even installed a front spring upside down and had to redo it.
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      04-23-2012, 04:10 PM   #77
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Just finished installing Eibach lowering springs this weekend. Took about 4 hours cause I ran into a problem where I got the rear M14 bearing stuck. Make sure everything lines up before you push the camber arm up. Helps a lot to have a 2nd person jack up the camber arm while you're holding the wheel carrier in place and pushing in the M14 bolt.
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      05-04-2012, 10:25 PM   #78
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Got everything done today, took me about 5hrs due to the rear bolt not going in. Front was much easier than the rear. After I finished, drove it around and heard a clunk on both fronts on every bumps. I took the wheels off and re tightened the sway bar link bolts and that did the job. BUT NOWWWW headlights seem awfully high, I may have to check the light level sensor on the back that people are talking about(hope I didn't break anything)
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      05-05-2012, 12:07 AM   #79
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Thinking about trying this DIY this weekend. I wish there was a step by step video. I hate the thought of screwing something up.
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      05-18-2012, 03:23 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shake&bake View Post
Replaced the front OEM springs with Eibach Performance springs on Friday. Started with the front with the plans of replacing the rear springs later this week. I used the very helpful DIY instructions available on the forum and everything seemed to go OK. Here are my questions:

1.When swapping out the springs, did anyone replace the swaybar or strut lock nuts with new hardware? I just reused them, but am questioning if I needed new.

2.If I like the ride and look of the car with the Eibach springs in the front and the OEM springs in the back, is there a compelling reason to change out the rear shocks with the Eibach? I have 20" CH-R in 255/30/20, and 285/30/20 in the rear. 3mm chamber plat coming for the front. The car currently has an even stance and I'm worried if I drop the rear it will be too much for the 30 profile tires.

3.Dove the car home on Friday after the front install with no errors. Washed the car over the weekend and when I started it today there was a EDC error. I checked all the connectors and the wiring harness and everything seems ok. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help.
I have the same problem. Edc error. Did you find out what the problem was? I tried everything, might have to take it to the dealer. Any info would be appreciated.
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      05-26-2012, 03:49 PM   #81
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Does anyone have a full list of nuts and bolts that need to be replaced? I don't think walking into the dealer and telling them I am replacing springs will do much help lol.. Thanks guys.
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      05-26-2012, 10:10 PM   #82
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Nope...I didn't replace any. Struts, shocks and springs are all still on the car.
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      05-27-2012, 01:42 PM   #83
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Nope...I didn't replace any. Struts, shocks and springs are all still on the car.
OK..?

Anyone else, please.
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      06-07-2012, 08:58 AM   #84
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Doing this one today. I got a buddy to help me out to cut down on time. I'll let you know how it goes.
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      11-10-2012, 09:38 PM   #85
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up from the dead...

So my latest attempts to install KV Sleeves failed miserably today. I started out doing the rears and am completely defeated by the threading of the larger bolt through the control arm and wheel carrier. I tried everything and simply cannot align the holes together to get it done. Now I understand why I've seen others bitch and complaint about that one bolt. Un-frekin-believeable.
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      11-11-2012, 09:18 AM   #86
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Yes, they do have to be lined up perfectly. It may take some jacking and maneuvering.
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      02-19-2013, 01:32 PM   #87
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this looks fairly straight forward. thinking of giving it a shot and saving that 350 on install. read the thread. is it as easy as it seems?
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      06-02-2013, 02:19 AM   #88
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Reading this DIY in preparation of installing my coilovers and didn't see this mentioned anywhere (I may have missed it). But I think you will want to tighten bolts 1 & 2 in the photo below with the suspension compressed at ride height to avoid undue stress on the bushings. FYI an easy way to simulate ride height when the car is on jack stands is to use a hydraulic jack to load the suspension to the point where the car just begins to rise off of the stands.

As far as the other bushings that may not need to be loosened to R&R the springs. Is everyone loosening these as well and re-tightening at the new, lowered ride height? Probably wont hurt since I will be doing an alignment anyways. Didn't see torque specs for these though.

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