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      05-02-2013, 02:53 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happos2 View Post
That is ideal. I have the standard looking calipers. I could invest in a new set, been wanting one for a while...
Od mic are more accurate
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      05-02-2013, 04:07 PM   #24
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The style of caliper originally posted will work for this purpose. You see how near the top of the caliper there is a small recess cut in. That little space is enough to get around any lip that could be present near the edge of the caliper. It just requires that you get it all the way on to the rotor and not just touch the tip of it. You might have to push the backing for the rotor out of the way to be able to get the calipers all the way on to the rotor to measure it. That's what I had to do.
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      05-02-2013, 04:07 PM   #25
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Agreed, I was taught (back in my high school auto shop days) to use a micrometer in the most worn area. You should also check for warpage due to overheating, not easy to eyeball sometimes, though it can be easily checked on a brake laithe.
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      05-02-2013, 04:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
The style of caliper originally posted will work for this purpose. You see how near the top of the caliper there is a small recess cut in. That little space is enough to get around any lip that could be present near the edge of the caliper. It just requires that you get it all the way on to the rotor and not just touch the tip of it. You might have to push the backing for the rotor out of the way to be able to get the calipers all the way on to the rotor to measure it. That's what I had to do.
That is correct I had a cheaper one first that didn't have that indent at it base. Went with the fulmer so I could measure at any point on the entire rotor or other components as well. Price was 50ish I think.
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      05-02-2013, 05:13 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3amigos View Post
You should also check for warpage due to overheating, not easy to eyeball sometimes, though it can be easily checked on a brake laithe.
but then he needs a nice dial indicator and base to mount it with a flex head. more tools to buy.

edit - I meant to be able to check it on the car and not the lathe.
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      05-02-2013, 05:15 PM   #28
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just had mine replaced at 57k
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      05-02-2013, 05:23 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surlynkid View Post
but then he needs a nice dial indicator and base to mount it with a flex head. more tools to buy.

edit - I meant to be able to check it on the car and not the lathe.
You could check it on the track. Severe shudder that isn't pad deposit will be warped rotor which is fairly uncommon compared to deposits people mistake as warpage, even dealers.
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      05-06-2013, 12:36 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by smmmurf View Post
Wow, this has to be some kind of record
Probably an idiot record lol.

I knew I was upgrading to a BBK so I pretty much just mashed the snot out of them at the track on 3 different occasions and ended each day with them warping and needing to be machined. After 3 times machining, they were done.
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      05-06-2013, 01:40 PM   #31
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Don't use regular calipers to measure the rotors. Use what 1MOREMOD said. I'd go towards the middle, where the piston in the calipers would be.

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Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
Probably an idiot record lol.

I knew I was upgrading to a BBK so I pretty much just mashed the snot out of them at the track on 3 different occasions and ended each day with them warping and needing to be machined. After 3 times machining, they were done.
Well not everyone is busy beating cars at the airstrip either haha
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      05-07-2013, 02:50 AM   #32
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I believe BMW use to always replace rotors and pads together. Of course, not the case today.
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      05-07-2013, 09:29 AM   #33
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I just replaced mine for the first time. I had 92k on them.
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      05-12-2013, 11:14 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
The style of caliper originally posted will work for this purpose. You see how near the top of the caliper there is a small recess cut in. That little space is enough to get around any lip that could be present near the edge of the caliper. It just requires that you get it all the way on to the rotor and not just touch the tip of it. You might have to push the backing for the rotor out of the way to be able to get the calipers all the way on to the rotor to measure it. That's what I had to do.
Washed the car and inspected my brakes yesterday, I have 104,617 miles.
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      05-17-2013, 06:30 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dannys M3 View Post
Washed the car and inspected my brakes yesterday, I have 104,617 miles.
Nice pics..
I recently got my OEM brakes back on, since I had to get rid of my brembo GT kit.. My OEM brakes probably have been running about 30k miles and it looks pretty good but not sure when to get a new one.
When should I get my rotor changed? Is there any recommended thickeness?
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      05-17-2013, 06:39 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pichgo View Post
Nice pics..
I recently got my OEM brakes back on, since I had to get rid of my brembo GT kit.. My OEM brakes probably have been running about 30k miles and it looks pretty good but not sure when to get a new one.
When should I get my rotor changed? Is there any recommended thickeness?

Minimum thinkness is engraved onto the hat area. Front is 28.4mm and can't remember what the rear is. 26.4 possibly.
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      05-17-2013, 07:11 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
Minimum thinkness is engraved onto the hat area. Front is 28.4mm and can't remember what the rear is. 26.4 possibly.
Thanks man!!
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      05-17-2013, 10:58 PM   #38
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I just hit 73k on the rear rotors...

Replaced everything back there and iDrive now says service isn't due on rear brakes for 90,000 miles. :O
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