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      03-25-2013, 12:05 PM   #23
tyrewt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Lowes has Kobalt torque wrenches that appear to be lifetime guaranteed (unlike Craftsman torque wrenches). I saw only 3/8 inch and a 50-250 lb 1/2 inch drive at Lowes but did not look carefully for more. For wheels, a 150 lb 1/2 drive might have the best accuracy. Torque wrenches are usually not as accurate at the top and bottom end of their ranges so choose one.
I'm considering picking up a one of those 1/2 inch Brown Digital Torque wrenches mentioned earlier in this thread. Apparently it doesn't require calibration.
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      03-25-2013, 03:50 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VCMperformance View Post
you should see are TQ wrench we have a the it has buttons and a screen. vibrates when you are near the set point and beeps at the TQ setting even does TQ angles. works nice when Torquing the vanos units on the s65 after torquing and TQ angle comes out to about +200ft-lb.
Damn you....I'm stealing it in May.
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      05-03-2013, 10:14 PM   #25
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So spend $100 on a Brown Line digital torque wrench, or a $20 Harbor Fright drive click torque wrench?
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      05-03-2013, 11:04 PM   #26
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well, think about why one costs more than the other...
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      05-03-2013, 11:36 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyrewt View Post
So spend $100 on a Brown Line digital torque wrench, or a $20 Harbor Fright drive click torque wrench?
Consistency between the lugs is more important than absolute accuracy.

If I was torquing head bolts I wouldn't use harbor freight but its probably good enough for wheel lugs.
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      05-03-2013, 11:49 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by fastmike View Post
Consistency between the lugs is more important than absolute accuracy.

If I was torquing head bolts I wouldn't use harbor freight but its probably good enough for wheel lugs.
Yeah, I just don't want to worry about calibration. According to Brown Line their wrench needs to be calibrated every 3000 uses. So if I swap tires twice a year, I'll be dead before that is required.
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      05-07-2013, 07:57 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Vic311 View Post
http://www.amazon.com/Brown-BLD0212-.../dp/B0032A60W2

Picked this up a while back upon reading the recommendation of a vendor on this forum. It works flawlessly and won't break the bank
Bro did your torque wrench come with adapters that fit your M's lugs. If not which ones did you get. Iam about to buy this wrench.
Thanks
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      05-07-2013, 10:54 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeartMD View Post
Bro did your torque wrench come with adapters that fit your M's lugs. If not which ones did you get. Iam about to buy this wrench.
Thanks
No it didn't come with one, I bought a 17mm socket to use with my lugs, I have the MS wheel spacer lugs and they are 17mm, I belive the OE ones are the same size.
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      05-08-2013, 12:54 AM   #31
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Don't forget at least a 3" extension so you don't scratch the car.
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      05-08-2013, 07:52 AM   #32
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If you guys want the best bang for the buck torque wrench for home usage buy the Kobalt from Lowes. We have a torque wrench calibration station at work and they are within 2 to 3 ft/lb across the entire range.
They are made by Snap-On and carry the good warrranty.
Also, dont let any torque wrench fool you, they ALL will loose accuracy after the first year. Once they fall the first time they will take a set and really never have to be adjusted again.
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      05-08-2013, 08:23 AM   #33
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also shouldn't leave them loaded to your preset torque, always bring back down to 0 (if you have the spring version).
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      05-08-2013, 05:27 PM   #34
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Think about it, millions of wheels are on the road around the world torqued to the wrong spec and you don't exactly hear about cars with wheels falling of each day.

Pretty much any torque wrench would be sufficient for your wheels. Anything is better than the tire guy going at it with the impact gun for 20 secs... Except not tightening it enough...which is pretty hard to do
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      05-14-2013, 10:28 AM   #35
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So when it comes to removing those lug bolts, should you avoid using the torque wrench and use a breaker bar?
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      05-14-2013, 10:38 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyrewt View Post
So when it comes to removing those lug bolts, should you avoid using the torque wrench and use a breaker bar?
Yes, the fastest way to ruin a torque wrench is breaking a bolt loose. In most cases break away torque will be higher. You could always run the wrench up higher but what is the point if you have to run it back down to the set point again. I always use a breaker bar.
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      05-15-2013, 06:33 AM   #37
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Harbor Freight sells decent 3/8 and 1/2 inch breaker bars. My favorite tool for removing wheels is my 18V Milwaukee 1/2 drive impact (over 400 lbs torque). Cheaper is the Lowes Kobalt, but only 300 lbs torque. Cheapest is the Sears Craftsman, but only 200 lbs torque. Even though the wheels are only 90, breakaway torque is often much higher than tightening torque. The Craftsman would still probably do the job 90% of the time.
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      05-15-2013, 07:24 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Harbor Freight sells decent 3/8 and 1/2 inch breaker bars. My favorite tool for removing wheels is my 18V Milwaukee 1/2 drive impact (over 400 lbs torque). Cheaper is the Lowes Kobalt, but only 300 lbs torque. Cheapest is the Sears Craftsman, but only 200 lbs torque. Even though the wheels are only 90, breakaway torque is often much higher than tightening torque. The Craftsman would still probably do the job 90% of the time.
Do they sell the 17mm socket and extensions too?
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      05-15-2013, 08:25 AM   #39
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Definitely a good thing to do by yourself. It also allows you to periodically check things yourself--you can inspect the wheels for cracks once a year or so, assess your tires' tread, take a look at your brake pads, etc.

It might seem overly compulsive, but it's actually a good idea to confirm/re-torque your wheels yourself after the car has been serviced. You'd be surprised how often you find that the lugs have been wildly overtorqued with an impact gun, or even left loose, sometimes on the same wheel! This happens whether you've been to the local tire shop, an independent car place, or even the BMW dealer.

The thing I still can't figure out is how race teams get away with using impact guns all the time. It is very well known that over-torquing with an impact gun can stretch the lugbolts or wheel studs, damaging them. Using an impact to remove lugs can also loosen wheel studs from the hub if the nut binds or galls on the shaft of the stud. It's also accepted practice that tightening should happen in a star pattern to distribute force evenly on the hub. Knowing this, watch a pit stop tire change next time you're watching the Rolex Grand Am series or Continental Tire Challenge series on Speed. The guys run impact guns for speed, don't check torque, and actually run the lugs on in a radial/circular pattern around the wheel, instead of a star pattern. Obviously a quick pit stop is what's essential, but how do they get away with this given the mechanical stresses of racing? Are they using "torque sticks" on the impact guns that are set to 90 ft-lbs?
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