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      01-30-2013, 10:34 PM   #45
Maximusdafarmer
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I just got one! I need to do this ASAP. Thanks to OP and TxStig
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      01-30-2013, 11:56 PM   #46
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Awesome DIY
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      02-05-2013, 09:07 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxStig View Post
I am planning on doing my Diff and tranny witht he next oil change in about 2000 miles.

Need to start purchasing the fluids.
I'm on the same boat. Doing that sometime this month, as well as coolant and oil change (that I'll send to Blackstone Labs). Will also change my fluid out with ATE blue. Big weekend coming up.

Thanks again for the tool!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean05 View Post
i did mine and it was a easy...

just an FYI...

FLUIDS cost internet price picked up...

$90+ for the Tranny
$60+ for the diff.

called several dealers and said quoted me almost 200 for the tranny and 150 for the diff... just making sure you dont pay that much...

i did a DIY with photos so part number should be there.. just check it out.
Where'd you get it from? Bavauto? I only saw they sell 5L of tranny fluid for $150.

Thanks for the writeup by the way. Might want to look at your air filter, they look pretty dirty to me.
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      02-05-2013, 09:28 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
I'm on the same boat. Doing that sometime this month, as well as coolant and oil change (that I'll send to Blackstone Labs). Will also change my fluid out with ATE blue. Big weekend coming up.

Thanks again for the tool!



Where'd you get it from? Bavauto? I only saw they sell 5L of tranny fluid for $150.

Thanks for the writeup by the way. Might want to look at your air filter, they look pretty dirty to me.
nah bought the fluids at McKenna BMW here in Los Angeles the best dealer in town...

5L for tranny cost 90+ bucks.

oh the filter its actually clean.. no dust or anything.. I cleaned it before i put it in..
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      02-05-2013, 10:37 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxStig View Post
I have 12 tools left and not sure when I will order another batch right now...I am hoping to sell a bunch this weekend at the M Club track meet in Houston so get em before they are all gone!!
Do you have anymore of those coil removal tools left. Looks like it works really well and I know the factory tool can cost a few hundred dollars.
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      02-14-2013, 06:14 PM   #50
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Just got my Spark Plugs from rockauto yesterday so I'm gonna change out my plugs soon, does anyone know the torque spec for our cars
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      02-14-2013, 07:41 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmntmn
Just got my Spark Plugs from rockauto yesterday so I'm gonna change out my plugs soon, does anyone know the torque spec for our cars
23Nm IIRC. I think early in this thread it is mentioned.
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      02-15-2013, 01:57 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean05 View Post
i did mine and it was a easy...

just an FYI...

FLUIDS cost internet price picked up...

$90+ for the Tranny
$60+ for the diff.

called several dealers and said quoted me almost 200 for the tranny and 150 for the diff... just making sure you dont pay that much...

i did a DIY with photos so part number should be there.. just check it out.
Hey Sean where are you buying the Diff fluid from? going to order mine from McKenna soon and its about $40 per bottle w/FM BOOSTER
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      02-15-2013, 01:58 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
23Nm IIRC. I think early in this thread it is mentioned.
Thanks
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      02-15-2013, 03:16 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmntmn View Post
Thanks
I believe TxStig recommended 28Nm as 23Nm seems a bit loose. It's on page 11 of this thread: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...4#post13169484
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      02-27-2013, 09:44 PM   #55
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Thanks for the great diy with pics
One question to OP. You said that we need spurk plug socket with rubber to hold the spurk plug when putting it in.
I have never seen a socket with rubber. Can you post a picture of it and where should i get it?
Thanks
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      02-28-2013, 01:00 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
Thanks for the great diy with pics
One question to OP. You said that we need spurk plug socket with rubber to hold the spurk plug when putting it in.
I have never seen a socket with rubber. Can you post a picture of it and where should i get it?
Thanks
it one of them socket for plugs with a rubber insert that grips the top of the spark plug...any motor factor "should" have them in stock
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      02-28-2013, 02:00 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
Thanks for the great diy with pics
One question to OP. You said that we need spurk plug socket with rubber to hold the spurk plug when putting it in.
I have never seen a socket with rubber. Can you post a picture of it and where should i get it?
Thanks
Spark plug sockets have rubber inserts inside. They help hold in the spark plug when you take then out. They are not regular sockets.

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      03-01-2013, 07:58 AM   #58
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Thanks for writing up the DIY with photos, this is a great use. I'm going to tackle mine next week, and chuck a BMC filter in at the same time. I've got the TXstig puller tool too, so that should make life much easier!
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      03-01-2013, 12:13 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z K View Post
Spark plug sockets have rubber inserts inside. They help hold in the spark plug when you take then out. They are not regular sockets.

I found this extended socket VERY useful for this DIY:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shit, sorry that photo is so large ... jeezuz
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      03-01-2013, 02:27 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxStig View Post
This is what I used and it worked very very well for the back passenger side where the hole is tight...haha...I said the hole is tight...

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-805...rk+plug+socket
TWSS


Ordered ... gotta love Amazon prime ... thanks for the link!
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      03-23-2013, 09:31 PM   #61
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Just finished changing my spark plugs using this DIY and Stigs puller and the socket that he recommended.
Thank you both.
I have to say that this was a lot harder than i anticipated.
OP has mentioned that changing passinger side plug closest to the fire wall will be a big PITA. Iwould say that PITA is a big understatement.
I am pretty good with my hands, but there is just not enough room to operate. I am guessing, those who have smaller hands will have much easier time completing this job.
My hands are all scratched up and hurting right now lol.
Overall, its not so bad, just need to be patient
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      03-23-2013, 09:41 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
Just finished changing my spark plugs using this DIY and Stigs puller and the socket that he recommended.
Thank you both.
I have to say that this was a lot harder than i anticipated.
OP has mentioned that changing passinger side plug closest to the fire wall will be a big PITA. Iwould say that PITA is a big understatement.
I am pretty good with my hands, but there is just not enough room to operate. I am guessing, those who have smaller hands will have much easier time completing this job.
My hands are all scratched up and hurting right now lol.
Overall, its not so bad, just need to be patient
Look at this link:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=354
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      03-29-2013, 09:12 AM   #63
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Sean05 - thanks a lot for this write up, great DIY. With the TXStig puller tool- which is absolutely spot on, and your references, got the job done in 1 1/2hrs both banks.

Difficult bits - getting to the further coil on the intake side, but you can simply manipulate the tool to get it on to the coil top and then above the pipes which block you getting a clean pull on it. Once you do that it's straight out. The rest is plain sailing.

Big thanks to TXStig - the tool did the business!
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      04-08-2013, 03:32 PM   #64
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Hey any know I can get a hold of the coil removal tool. I messaged TXStig and didn't get a response.

Please point me to the right direction
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      04-22-2013, 06:38 PM   #65
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Need the coil pack removal tool as well

Is there anywhere else we can get an inexpensive coil pack removal tool? Also, how are the cylinders numbered? I got a bad one at the #6 cylinder.

**EDIT** Another spark plug/coil pack thread here where TxStig has been offering the tool. Also, I found the cylinder numbering, very important when you have a ignition coil pack go bad (which I have heard happens a lot around 50k miles)

8-cylinder, V8 (US models):

S65 – Twin cam (two cams for each bank), 4 valves per cylinder, produced from early 2000s to current

Cylinder numbering is 1 through 4 on passenger (right) side and 5 through 8 on driver (left) side. numbers 1 and 5 are at the front, 4 and 8 are at the rear.
Ignition firing order is 1-5-4-8-7-2-6-3).
Bank-1 is the passenger side (cylinders 1 through 4), bank-2 is the driver side (cylinders 5 through 8).

Last edited by jfirwin; 04-22-2013 at 07:57 PM.
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      04-27-2013, 09:11 AM   #66
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Just so everybody knows I have been informed by the forum mods that I am no longer allowed to sell the pullers through the forums. They consider it to be commercial sales because I am selling multiples of the same items. I respect their decision, and won't fight it even though I make barely any money on these and did it mostly as a service to members while trying to avoid the dreaded BMW tax. It was a simple solution to a vexing problem, but I am afraid it is no more.

I did inquire as to the rates for advertising (which may of been the overall downfall) but the rates currently far outstrip any profits I would make during the course of selling these parts so I will not be trying to do that either for now.

Be assured anybody who has submitted money already the pullers have shipped already. Expect them in the next few days.

Thanks everybody for the kind words over the time of making this!

Division M will return!!


Cheers,

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