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      03-12-2013, 07:30 PM   #1
JMB
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2 Track days: Massive brake shutter

After only 2 track days(1 mild, 1 aggressive ) , my comp pkg M3 brakes shuttered and faded so bad I thought I had a tire going down. I've read a little about brake issues but I figured they would hold up better than this. Any solutions? Let me rephrase , any inexpensive solutions so my wife won't freak?
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      03-12-2013, 07:34 PM   #2
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You just need some proper track pads, thats all. PFC 01 are the best, swap them in for the day or the weekend and just switch back when you get back. You probably transferred over pad material onto the rotor causing the shimmy.
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      03-12-2013, 07:34 PM   #3
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Track pads and SS lines. Keep your cross drilled holes in your rotors clean They pack up with the stock pads and create high spots on the rotors.



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Originally Posted by JMB View Post
After only 2 track days(1 mild, 1 aggressive ) , my comp pkg M3 brakes shuttered and faded so bad I thought I had a tire going down. I've read a little about brake issues but I figured they would hold up better than this. Any solutions? Let me rephrase , any inexpensive solutions so my wife won't freak?
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      03-12-2013, 07:34 PM   #4
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Used BBK or just tell your wife it's normal wear and tear... Either way- time for upgraded brakes IMHO.
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      03-12-2013, 07:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMB View Post
After only 2 track days(1 mild, 1 aggressive ) , my comp pkg M3 brakes shuttered and faded so bad I thought I had a tire going down. I've read a little about brake issues but I figured they would hold up better than this. Any solutions? Let me rephrase , any inexpensive solutions so my wife won't freak?
You can get a set of track pads and drive around for a day with them, maybe it will scrub off those deposits causing the judder. Re-bedding technique may also work to scrub those deposits off.
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      03-12-2013, 07:43 PM   #6
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Pad deposits. I experienced the same on my old M5 and with the M3 until I smartened up.

If tracking is going to be a regular thing, strongly encourage you to get at least a front BBK and legitimate track pad (Pagid).
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      03-12-2013, 07:44 PM   #7
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Understand what you are saying , but if the holes are plugged it will take more than "Re-bedding" to correct it. You may scrub off to flush with rotor but the holes will still be plugged.


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Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
You can get a set of track pads and drive around for a day with them, maybe it will scrub off those deposits causing the judder. Re-bedding technique may also work to scrub those deposits off.
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      03-12-2013, 07:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VCMpower View Post
Understand what you are saying , but if the holes are plugged it will take more than "Re-bedding" to correct it. You may scrub off to flush with rotor but the holes will still be plugged.
Yes, may have to punch out the holes with something (carefully) before I guess. Damn, that's pretty bad ... stock pads?
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      03-12-2013, 07:49 PM   #9
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Yep. I experienced this once and did not want to have it again. Cantrell brake cooling kit works well also.


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Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
Yes, may have to punch out the holes with something (carefully) before I guess. Damn, that's pretty bad ... stock pads?
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      03-12-2013, 07:53 PM   #10
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I run the stock calipers with the PFC and havent had any trouble yet. More than adequate for HPDE (20-25 mins sessions) if you are using the brakes properly. BBK would be nice, but not necessary.
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      03-12-2013, 08:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LightWerkz View Post
I run the stock calipers with the PFC and havent had any trouble yet. More than adequate for HPDE (20-25 mins sessions) if you are using the brakes properly. BBK would be nice, but not necessary.
+1 and I have a BBK.

Good set of pads, Motul 600 brake fluid (flushed regularly), SS lines and you should be set. No need for BBK unless you track hard and alot.

As the others have said the shuddering you are feeling is pad material on your rotors.
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      03-12-2013, 08:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBS View Post
+1 and I have a BBK.
Good set of pads, Motul 600 brake fluid (flushed regularly), SS lines and you should be set. No need for BBK unless you track hard and alot.
+1.....Phil
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      03-12-2013, 10:20 PM   #13
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I feel your pain.

After 50 laps at Big Willow trying to haul the car down from 160mph to 90mph for turn 1, my stock brakes couldn't take it any longer. I don't think they were meant for that kind of abuse. I had mine machined twice and that's all they will take so I ordered some 380/365 StopTechs
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      03-13-2013, 12:55 AM   #14
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Happened to me this weekend im on stock pads, fluid, and rotors for now. The shutter and vibration went away after driving it for a couple of days normally.
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      03-13-2013, 03:03 AM   #15
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Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by VCMpower
Track pads and SS lines. Keep your cross drilled holes in your rotors clean They pack up with the stock pads and create high spots on the rotors.



Quote:
Originally Posted by JMB View Post
After only 2 track days(1 mild, 1 aggressive ) , my comp pkg M3 brakes shuttered and faded so bad I thought I had a tire going down. I've read a little about brake issues but I figured they would hold up better than this. Any solutions? Let me rephrase , any inexpensive solutions so my wife won't freak?
+ 1 When you decide to get a BBK and I know you will Don't get the 380 mm front and rear rotors because you're only limiting yourself to 18' wheel selections. Do 365 mm front and 345 mm rear rotors and you'll have a lot more 18' wheels to chose from. GL
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      03-13-2013, 03:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormulaMMM View Post
Pad deposits. I experienced the same on my old M5 and with the M3 until I smartened up.

If tracking is going to be a regular thing, strongly encourage you to get at least a front BBK and legitimate track pad (Pagid).
+1

If you will only do a handful of track days a year for fun, get some racing pads like Pagid, Hawk, or PFC. Also upgrade your fluid.

If you are going to be a track regular, go directly to a BBK.

Let me know if I may be of help.
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      03-13-2013, 01:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by track_warrior View Post
Happened to me this weekend im on stock pads, fluid, and rotors for now. The shutter and vibration went away after driving it for a couple of days normally.
I had the exact issue after my first HPDE. Sounds like it was from pad transfer that eventually wore away. Get yourself a good set of track pads and continue driving them for a day after event to clean rotors. Then switch back to OEM pads. This will solve the problem. I like the PFC-06's because they last a long time and have almost the same amount of bite as the 01's.
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      03-13-2013, 03:20 PM   #18
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After going through the same thing a few times with endless pads (boiled Motul 600 fluid as well)
I decided to just get the BBK and be done with it. It was a good decision and
well worth the extra cash for the improved stopping power and reliability. Another cheaper option might
be to install brake ducts to bring the temps down.
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      03-14-2013, 09:25 PM   #19
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PFC01 is great, but if you are looking for a longer wear pad without giving up too much in performance, have a look at the PFC08.
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      03-21-2013, 11:36 AM   #20
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After my last track day (stock 1M) I noticed similar vibration feedback in my steering wheel. I was concerned my rotors were warped, but my shop believes it was uneven pad deposit.

My car only has ~9800 miles on it so I really don't want to replace the rotors if they still have some life. I am about to bite the bullet on some track pads, stainless lines, and fluid. Wondering if I should just go ahead and buy new rotors too.

The car has seen ~6 track days and is low on miles. Are my rotors shot? Any insight would be great.
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      03-21-2013, 01:24 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VCMpower View Post
Understand what you are saying , but if the holes are plugged it will take more than "Re-bedding" to correct it. You may scrub off to flush with rotor but the holes will still be plugged.
BTW, if the OP can punch a bit out, a copper .357 mag brush on a long rod will work will for these holes, and the brushes are soft, non-damaging to the holes themselves.
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      03-21-2013, 01:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcrain View Post
After my last track day (stock 1M) I noticed similar vibration feedback in my steering wheel. I was concerned my rotors were warped, but my shop believes it was uneven pad deposit.

My car only has ~9800 miles on it so I really don't want to replace the rotors if they still have some life. I am about to bite the bullet on some track pads, stainless lines, and fluid. Wondering if I should just go ahead and buy new rotors too.

The car has seen ~6 track days and is low on miles. Are my rotors shot? Any insight would be great.
Did you read the other posts in this thread? Most of them site pad deposits as the first place to look. Your shop thinks the same thing. What more do you want?
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