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      10-31-2012, 10:51 PM   #199
italyix
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^^My dealer charges $14.50 for a bottle.

$10 is a steal! Sweet find

Last edited by italyix; 11-01-2012 at 06:41 PM. Reason: updated price
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      11-01-2012, 01:03 PM   #200
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Wow, I need to check out some local stations!
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      11-01-2012, 01:41 PM   #201
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pics or it didn't happen; and is it TWS (i think there is a reg 10 60 and a TWS but it says M engines on the bottle anyways) oil?? That's a good find and price
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      11-01-2012, 06:02 PM   #202
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pics or it didn't happen; and is it TWS (i think there is a reg 10 60 and a TWS but it says M engines on the bottle anyways) oil?? That's a good find and price
I'll take pics of the bottles when I go down to the car later. I've been wiring a standalone ECU into my Turbo 7 series since this morning, so I haven't added oil or started the M3 yet today.

For those of you in the LA area, go to the 76 near LMU on Lincoln Blvd (one block from the Bristol Farms) and you will see it on the shelf to the left of the entrance.

It does say on the bottle that it is formulated for M engines, 100% exact same bottle as from the dealer or I wouldn't have purchased it.
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      11-02-2012, 01:03 AM   #203
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You guys are spoiled :-). In Sweden we pay almost 29$ for one bottle oil (1liter)
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      11-02-2012, 01:08 AM   #204
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pics or it didn't happen; and is it TWS (i think there is a reg 10 60 and a TWS but it says M engines on the bottle anyways) oil?? That's a good find and price
Here's the proof:


"Castrol Fuel" ... lol

Will add it tomorrow and report back.
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      11-15-2012, 09:40 AM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
Here's the proof:


"Castrol Fuel" ... lol

Will add it tomorrow and report back.
Mike - Did adding extra oil help?
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      01-07-2013, 12:45 PM   #206
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any more news/update on this? I read in the other thread that this could just be the starter gear popping back?
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      01-07-2013, 08:00 PM   #207
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any more news/update on this? I read in the other thread that this could just be the starter gear popping back?
Not in my case it wasn't. I'm at 57K and the sound is absolutely, 100% still not present after the VANOS was replaced.
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      02-07-2013, 09:35 AM   #208
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I think you guys are talking about two different noises. If it's the noise that only occurs once after a cold start it's probably the Vanos oil check valves bleeding down when the car sits for a while/overnight. We've repaired two cars this way and neither one has the noise now...

"CORRECTION: VERIFIED CUSTOMERS KNOCK CONCERN. KNOCK NOISE HAPPENS APPROX 60% OF THE TIME ON COLD STARTS. WHEN NOISE OCCURS IT HAPPENS ONE TIME AND ONE TIME ONLY. THE NOISE IS VERY SIMILAR TO A DOOR KNOCK. WE HAVE LISTENED TO THE ENGINE WITH STETHOSCOPES AND FELT VARIOUS COMPONENTS WHILE THE KNOCK IS HAPPENING. WE HAVE RULED OUT THE STARTER MOTOR AND THROTTLE MOTORS DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE KNOCK CAN NOT BE FELT AT THOSE COMPONENTS. WE COULD FEEL A SLIGHT REVERB FROM THE NOISE IN THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE. REPLACED TIMING CHAIN TENSIONERS AND RETESTED. KNOCK NOISE RETURNED AFTER TENSIONERS WERE REPLACED. STARTED TC CASE. WE WERE ABLE TO GET THE ENGINE TO MAKE NO NOISE WITH EITHER ONE OR BOTH OF THE THROTTLE MOTORS UNPLUGGED. THIS PUTS THE ENGINE INTO BASE CAMSHAFT TIMING. WE CHECKED THE OIL PRESSURE. OIL PRESSURE RAISES QUICKLY TO 90PSI AND DROPS TO 75PSI WHEN THE KNOCK NOISE HAPPENS THEN RETURNS TO 90PSI. WE REPLACED THE VANOS OIL CHECK VALVES DUE TO OIL BLEADING DOWN IN THE SYSTEM WHEN CAR SITS FOR EXTENDED PERIODS AND NOISE IS PRESENT. NOISE NO LONGER PRESENT AFTER REPAIR."
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      03-08-2013, 04:10 PM   #209
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"CORRECTION: VERIFIED CUSTOMERS KNOCK CONCERN. KNOCK NOISE HAPPENS APPROX 60% OF THE TIME ON COLD STARTS. WHEN NOISE OCCURS IT HAPPENS ONE TIME AND ONE TIME ONLY. THE NOISE IS VERY SIMILAR TO A DOOR KNOCK. WE HAVE LISTENED TO THE ENGINE WITH STETHOSCOPES AND FELT VARIOUS COMPONENTS WHILE THE KNOCK IS HAPPENING. WE HAVE RULED OUT THE STARTER MOTOR AND THROTTLE MOTORS DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE KNOCK CAN NOT BE FELT AT THOSE COMPONENTS. WE COULD FEEL A SLIGHT REVERB FROM THE NOISE IN THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE. REPLACED TIMING CHAIN TENSIONERS AND RETESTED. KNOCK NOISE RETURNED AFTER TENSIONERS WERE REPLACED. STARTED TC CASE. WE WERE ABLE TO GET THE ENGINE TO MAKE NO NOISE WITH EITHER ONE OR BOTH OF THE THROTTLE MOTORS UNPLUGGED. THIS PUTS THE ENGINE INTO BASE CAMSHAFT TIMING. WE CHECKED THE OIL PRESSURE. OIL PRESSURE RAISES QUICKLY TO 90PSI AND DROPS TO 75PSI WHEN THE KNOCK NOISE HAPPENS THEN RETURNS TO 90PSI. WE REPLACED THE VANOS OIL CHECK VALVES DUE TO OIL BLEADING DOWN IN THE SYSTEM WHEN CAR SITS FOR EXTENDED PERIODS AND NOISE IS PRESENT. NOISE NO LONGER PRESENT AFTER REPAIR."
Would these be the correct parts: Group #1 and 4?
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      03-28-2013, 09:59 AM   #210
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negative, it's #'s 16+17 in this graphic. You need two, one for each side.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...11&fg=15&hl=17


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Would these be the correct parts: Group #1 and 4?
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      03-28-2013, 10:38 AM   #211
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negative, it's #'s 16+17 in this graphic. You need two, one for each side.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...11&fg=15&hl=17
Much appreciated.
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      03-28-2013, 06:52 PM   #212
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LOL, so it's a $16 part that's causing all of this.
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      03-28-2013, 07:45 PM   #213
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Quote:
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negative, it's #'s 16+17 in this graphic. You need two, one for each side.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...11&fg=15&hl=17
The realoem site listed we need 4 of them. I am assuming it's 2 per cylinder head so 4 for the entire engine?
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      03-29-2013, 01:27 AM   #214
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Is there such a thing as a 2007 E92 M3???
Yes but not in US
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      03-29-2013, 01:33 AM   #215
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Are you people seriously fucking debating what model year his car is?

Boredom strikes again lol
Lol
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      03-29-2013, 02:50 AM   #216
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I can't find the instruction on the TIS on removal/install of this part. Does anyone have the instruction/DIY or torque spec for this valve? I wonder if prolong period of having this bad valve will eventually lead to damage of the VANO unit.
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      03-29-2013, 06:46 PM   #217
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The thing that I don't get is that that part doesn't seem to have been replaced on my car but the noise is still gone (it's been a year now).
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      03-30-2013, 03:23 PM   #218
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^M3PO, it's possible there are 2 separate problem as mose101 pointed out. The valve is the cheaper and easier fix so I figure it doesn't hurt to do that first and I do worry that if the valve indeed is bad, it will eventually damage the VANOS unit over time.

Found the torque spec. It's 15 Nm. I will try to replace it and see if it fixes it and report back.
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      04-01-2013, 04:16 PM   #219
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Quote:
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^M3PO, it's possible there are 2 separate problem as mose101 pointed out. The valve is the cheaper and easier fix so I figure it doesn't hurt to do that first and I do worry that if the valve indeed is bad, it will eventually damage the VANOS unit over time.

Found the torque spec. It's 15 Nm. I will try to replace it and see if it fixes it and report back.
That's likely the case. Further back in this thread, I remember a member said that they replaced the check valves and it didn't solve the issue.
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      04-01-2013, 05:19 PM   #220
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Quote:
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^M3PO, it's possible there are 2 separate problem as mose101 pointed out. The valve is the cheaper and easier fix so I figure it doesn't hurt to do that first and I do worry that if the valve indeed is bad, it will eventually damage the VANOS unit over time.

Found the torque spec. It's 15 Nm. I will try to replace it and see if it fixes it and report back.
How easy is this repair? Does it qualify as a DIY....a form of preventative maintenance?
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