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      03-06-2013, 11:34 PM   #23
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I personally use megs mf cutting pads or surbuf. Both are great options that work really well
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      03-07-2013, 12:06 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic311 View Post
^Correct..the smaller the pad the more cutting power you have..even when using the same "type" of pad.

I use Lake Country 5.5" for main panels and found it has the just the right amount of cutting power. I do use 4" pads for areas like the A and B pillars, bumpers, door jams etc..
Interesting, I thought with a "random orbital" it was next to impossible to burn anything? That is the whole point of those...they are dummy proof right?
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      03-07-2013, 12:11 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fen335i View Post
Interesting, I thought with a "random orbital" it was next to impossible to burn anything? That is the whole point of those...they are dummy proof right?
Thats a myth..it's a lot harder to burn with a DA but you can burn the paint if not careful. It takes a lot longer because the dual action doesn't generate as much heat as a direct rotary..

Use moderate pressure and keep touching the surface to see if its getting hot
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      03-07-2013, 12:39 AM   #26
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^ thanks. Makes sense
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      03-07-2013, 01:47 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdalpha View Post
Some popular combos:
  • Menzerna SIP & 106FF
  • Meguiar's m105 & m205
  • Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 & Finishing Glaze
  • HD Uno
I would also add Menzerna FG400 to this great list. I'm using it now as a one step compound/polish with a white lake country pad and DA.
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      03-07-2013, 02:36 AM   #28
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^Interesting combo with the FG400 and a white pad. Always planned to get some p203 for one stepping with a white pad, but never thought of using FG400.
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      03-07-2013, 02:39 AM   #29
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I was curious about the griots so checked and you can indeed use a 6" pad. It really depends on the size of the backing plate. The 6" griots is actually has a backing plate less than 6". For safety reasons, you want the backing plate to be smaller than the pad.

I like 5.5" too, but if the griots has enough power for the 6" pads, I'd invest in 4" in pads and 3.5" backing plate if you want options.
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      03-08-2013, 12:25 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sensi09 View Post
^Interesting combo with the FG400 and a white pad. Always planned to get some p203 for one stepping with a white pad, but never thought of using FG400.
Isn't the FG400 pretty abrasive? One of my cars is Imola Red, which shows swirls and light scratches in the clear coat pretty easily. Should I go with something as hardcore as a Mazerna FG400, or try something a touch less abrasive?
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      03-08-2013, 12:26 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sensi09 View Post
I was curious about the griots so checked and you can indeed use a 6" pad. It really depends on the size of the backing plate. The 6" griots is actually has a backing plate less than 6". For safety reasons, you want the backing plate to be smaller than the pad.

I like 5.5" too, but if the griots has enough power for the 6" pads, I'd invest in 4" in pads and 3.5" backing plate if you want options.
Thanks for the feedback, sounds like 6 inch is a good way to start. I'll have to check into Griots and see if I can change the backing plate to a 4 or 3.5". I'm not sure they sell that...I know they sell a 3" orbital though
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      03-08-2013, 01:15 AM   #32
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Less abrasive for sure.

Backing plates should be universal. The lake country backing plates are popular, but not sure if there's a difference really.

Lots of detailed info on the detailing forums like autogeek or autopia if you're curious.
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      03-08-2013, 01:19 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sensi09 View Post
^Interesting combo with the FG400 and a white pad. Always planned to get some p203 for one stepping with a white pad, but never thought of using FG400.
Yup. FG400 saves a lot of time. My previous go to was Meguiars M105 and M205. Too much dusting and a lot of work. My paint is well maintained so FG400 is rarely needed. So far, I just use it for RIDS and problem areas (i.e. trunk lid, doors). My car may need a full run through in a couple years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fen335i View Post
Isn't the FG400 pretty abrasive? One of my cars is Imola Red, which shows swirls and light scratches in the clear coat pretty easily. Should I go with something as hardcore as a Mazerna FG400, or try something a touch less abrasive?
Well, it depends.

When correcting, always start with the least aggressive pad and compound (can use even polish) on a small area to see what works. However, BMW paint is pretty hard. For example, using a DA orbital with a white lake country (very light cut) foam pad and wolfgang's total swirl remover 3.0 is not a bad starting point. If that doesn't remove the swirls and light scratches, step it up with wolfgang and a medium cut pad such as an orange lake country pad. Remember, technique is very important too.

You can go even stronger using a compound like Meguiars M105 with the same pad or a pad with more cut (i.e. yellow lake country) for deeper scratches. But remember, if you go that strong, you will be taking a good amount of clear coat and will need to go over the same area with polish to remove the fine scratches and marring the compound and cut pads left behind. I don't recommend it. Go about that step at your own risk or find a good detailer.

To be safe, make several passes (4-6) before stepping up. The great thing about all the equipment available is that you can adjust your approach according to the condition of the paint, making your job easier. But being able to determine that comes with experience. Hope that helps.
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      03-08-2013, 01:20 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sensi09 View Post
Less abrasive for sure.

Backing plates should be universal. The lake country backing plates are popular, but not sure if there's a difference really.

Lots of detailed info on the detailing forums like autogeek or autopia if you're curious.
This
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      03-08-2013, 01:34 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjw2331 View Post
Yup. FG400 saves a lot of time. My previous go to was Meguiars M105 and M205. Too much dusting and a lot of work. My paint is well maintained so FG400 is rarely needed. So far, I just use it for RIDS and problem areas (i.e. trunk lid, doors). My car may need a full run through in a couple years.



Well, it depends.

When correcting, always start with the least aggressive pad and compound (can use even polish) on a small area to see what works. However, BMW paint is pretty hard. For example, using a DA orbital with a white lake country (very light cut) foam pad and wolfgang's total swirl remover 3.0 is not a bad starting point. If that doesn't remove the swirls and light scratches, step it up with wolfgang and a medium cut pad such as an orange lake country pad. Remember, technique is very important too.

You can go even stronger using a compound like Meguiars M105 with the same pad or a pad with more cut (i.e. yellow lake country) for deeper scratches. But remember, if you go that strong, you will be taking a good amount of clear coat and will need to go over the same area with polish to remove the fine scratches and marring the compound and cut pads left behind. I don't recommend it. Go about that step at your own risk or find a good detailer.

To be safe, make several passes (4-6) before stepping up. The great thing about all the equipment available is that you can adjust your approach according to the condition of the paint, making your job easier. But being able to determine that comes with experience. Hope that helps.
Thanks, very helpful info here.
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      03-18-2013, 04:20 PM   #36
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Someone may have mentioned this, but you may consider getting a 5" BP and using 5" pads if you don't already have a bunch of 6" pads. 5" pads will get you more cut more quickly, and arguably, a better finish - plus it's easier to get in tighter areas. If I had to suggest a "go to" combo of pads/compounds for an imola red BMW, without seeing the paint I'd say...

16 oz Menz FG400 (see above, jjw2331 is right on about it).
~16oz Sonax Perfect Finish (didn't see anyone mention this one, it is incredibly easy to use and leaves a very, very nice finish... very easy to remove from the paint too, and almost no oils like some of the menz finishing polishes). Megs 205 is a good alternative.
~6 megauirs microfiber finishing pads (same mf as cutting, different backing, they dont delaminate as much)
1-2 lake country white or black polishing pads; either with PF should clean up the haze from FG400. I don't prefer the LC ones but they are easier to get than the Rupes pads.
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      03-18-2013, 04:32 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjw2331 View Post
When correcting, always start with the least aggressive pad and compound (can use even polish) on a small area to see what works. However, BMW paint is pretty hard. For example, using a DA orbital with a white lake country (very light cut) foam pad and wolfgang's total swirl remover 3.0 is not a bad starting point. If that doesn't remove the swirls and light scratches, step it up with wolfgang and a medium cut pad such as an orange lake country pad. Remember, technique is very important too.

I don't know about BMW paint being hard. Jet Black is super soft. You can mar it by putting your bare finger on clean paint. Your bare skin will scratch the paint! It is a real pain in the ass to keep in good condition and I use some elaborate wash techniques to make sure it stays good.

I don't need to use anything stronger than Menzerna SIP to correct anything and most of the time I can get out a lot of stuff just using Prime Strong on a DA.
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      03-18-2013, 04:55 PM   #38
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I meant hard as in it's tough to get scratches out. BMW clear coats need some aggressive materials to correct compared to other clear coats I've worked on. But you are right, it is soft in how easily it scratches. With my jet black, one touch with your finger will mar the paint. Some people say just looking at it swirls the paint. lol
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      03-18-2013, 04:55 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z K View Post
I don't know about BMW paint being hard. Jet Black is super soft. You can mar it by putting your bare finger on clean paint. Your bare skin will scratch the paint! It is a real pain in the ass to keep in good condition and I use some elaborate wash techniques to make sure it stays good.

I don't need to use anything stronger than Menzerna SIP to correct anything and most of the time I can get out a lot of stuff just using Prime Strong on a DA.
Ya, BMW paint is...well, funny. JB is hilariously soft on the surface, but it can be difficult to correct when you have deep marring. JB really isn't indicative of other BMW paint, unfortunately; it's a nightmare all on it's lonesome.

Imola is normally on the average to harder than average side of things, especially if you're doing deeper correction.
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      03-18-2013, 05:05 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogers08m3 View Post
JB really isn't indicative of other BMW paint, unfortunately; it's a nightmare all on it's lonesome.
Nightmare indeed! lol
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      03-18-2013, 05:05 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogers08m3 View Post
Ya, BMW paint is...well, funny. JB is hilariously soft on the surface, but it can be difficult to correct when you have deep marring. JB really isn't indicative of other BMW paint, unfortunately; it's a nightmare all on it's lonesome.

Imola is normally on the average to harder than average side of things, especially if you're doing deeper correction.
Yes! Easy to mar, hard to correct is true. I have a few deeper scratches that refuse to come out and I don't want to go very aggressive on it so I just have to live with it. But I got them to the point they aren't visible unless you're looking for it or know its there.
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      03-18-2013, 10:06 PM   #42
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Thank you! I think I'm putting and order in for some Mazerna polish!
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      03-20-2013, 10:19 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fen335i
Thank you! I think I'm putting and order in for some Mazerna polish!
BMW ceramic clears are definitely more difficult to remove defects. Cut with 105 on a meguiars mf disk ( both cut and finish disks work to remove defects). Get a 5 inch backing plate. (Exact fit) for your griots. It has plenty of ability to remove defects. Finish down with HD Polish on a black pad (80 ppi). Slow your arm speed down for this step. Trust me you will get fantastic results with this combo.
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      04-08-2013, 12:42 AM   #44
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I think I'm going to give the Mazerna FG400 compound a try. Lots of good reviews with that product...1-step compound and polish which I like the sound of.

Question - has anyone tried the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 after using the Mazerna products? I need to either use a carnuba or a synthetic to protect all the good polishing work, and I like the sound of a longer lasting synthetic. Any reviews on this stuff ???
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