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| 02-08-2013, 11:12 AM | #1 |
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Lieutenant
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: e92 M3 / former e46 M3 owner Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 437
iTrader: (0)
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2008 M3 Clutch Flywheel Replacement Cost?
I've searched a few threads on the topic but could not find an answer to the cost question so I apologize if this is a repeat.
Has anyone had to replace the clutch on an '08 M3 (which I understand requires a flywheel replacement as well because the clutch/flywheel setup was changed in the '09 models)? Most jabber on the topic centers around the debate of clutch life - although interesting, I'm more concerned with expense given I'm noticing some early indicators that a replacement may be eminant. If you have gone through the process, did you use the dealer or indy shop? What was the parts/labor breakdown? Thanks in advance |
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| 02-08-2013, 11:26 AM | #2 | |
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Here, have a gif.
Drives: 2008 SGM E90 M3 6MT Join Date: May 2011
Location: 2013 MG 335i M-Sport 6MT
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I would use an Indy shop... you will get raped at a dealership.
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| 02-08-2013, 03:10 PM | #3 |
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First Lieutenant
![]() ![]() Drives: 2008 ib e90 m3, 1995 acura nsx Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: chapel hill, nc
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i had my transmission replaced under warranty at about 36k,and checked on the price of a clutch and flywheel since they could be replaced with no labor charge while doing the new trans.iirc it was about $3000 for the parts,and the ones i had were in good shape,so i didn't do it.if the parts had been relatively cheap,i would have gone ahead while the trans was out.
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~ TRAFFIC LAWYER IN CENTRAL NC ~
2OO8 E90 M3 /// INTERLAGOS BLUE w/BAMBOO BEIGE, CARBON LEATHER / 6MT / 19" 220M FORGED WHEELS / PREMIUM / MOONROOF / IPOD / BSW SPEAKERS ~EVERYTHING IN MODERATION,INCLUDING MODERATION ~ |
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| 02-08-2013, 11:23 PM | #4 |
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Private First Class
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I don't understand your statement about why the flywheel has to be changed. Something about '08 being different from '09? Why not just get a new '08 clutch disk and pressure plate and keep the same flywheel? I've replaced several clutches on the various vehicles that I've owned and I've never felt it necessary to replace the flywheel. Of course I made the decision to not replace the flywheel after checking its condition thoroughly.
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| 02-09-2013, 12:05 AM | #5 |
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Driver
Drives: E90 ///M3 Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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a simple Google search for 2008 BMW M3 clutch kits brings up 3 different website that seems to sell a clutch kit for our cars called "Spec" Stage 5. for around $1700.xx blah blah.. I wouldn't buy that and Hope UUC comes out with a clutch kit before my ///M needs it..
I would do my own clutch when that time comes..... But I must ask, what early indicators are you feeling or getting that says a replacement may be needed ? I track my car at the minimum once a month and I have yet to feel any difference in my clutch compared to day 1. And I easily Easily out drive my stock brakes each time.. (my brake search has begun) sorry ![]() With that said, I drive my car Properly Hard and she pushes back and wants and takes more... and my Clutch is still Solid. Hope you car is ok.. GL
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| 02-09-2013, 01:43 AM | #6 | |
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Banned
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FYI Spec makes excellent clutches |
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| 02-09-2013, 07:03 AM | #7 | |
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Lieutenant
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: e92 M3 / former e46 M3 owner Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 437
iTrader: (0)
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Quote:
If you wanted to go aftermarket or source one from a junked M3, those alternatives are obviously still possible. |
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| 02-09-2013, 07:20 AM | #8 | |
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Lieutenant
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: e92 M3 / former e46 M3 owner Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 437
iTrader: (0)
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Quote:
I too track my car a few times a year - usually 3 or 4 BMW CCA HPDEs per annum but, again, I really don't think those weekend sessions kill the clutch as much as the city miles I have on the car. I live in downtown DC and use my M3 as a daily commuter car. I bought the car new - its an '08 with 56,000 miles. Aside from NY and LA, we have some of the worst traffic in the country - my 13 mile drive to work takes between 30 minutes and an hour with a lot of stop and go and traffic lights. I tend to be hard on the clutch on a regular basis - besides stop and go, I typically start in 2nd gear. I also like to play in the rain a bit and maximize my skidpad time at the track so I will occasionally let the clutch out a little higher on the revs (2.5 - 3.5k) to get the back end out rather than wait for the opportunity to employ throttle off oversteer. Not common but it all adds up to to premature wear. To finally answer your question - I'm noticing some slipping in 1st and 2nd gear - especially when pulling away from a stop. |
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| 02-09-2013, 12:13 PM | #9 | |
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Private First Class
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I tend to agree with your comment that tracking is not particularly hard on the clutch unless one is 'speed' shifting all the time. One problem I had with my old RX7's clutch at the track was that it would get too hot and start to shudder when leaving the pits from a dead stop. A switch to an aftermarket disk/plate fixed that problem. |
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| 02-09-2013, 12:24 PM | #10 | |
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Lieutenant
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: e92 M3 / former e46 M3 owner Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 437
iTrader: (0)
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Quote:
Not sure if you remember but back in '08 / '09, folks were getting fluid swaps in the tranny and diff because of noises. Either BMW got sick of fluid swaps under warranty or thought a bigger clutch/flywheel would make a real difference in performance and noise. |
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| 02-16-2013, 04:17 PM | #11 |
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Hamann M3 Fan
Drives: 2008 E92 Jerez Black M3 Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Killeen, Texas
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I have a 2008 E92 M3 with 85,000+ miles on it, I am told by friends and people I have asked think I might have a glaze spot in my fly wheel. I do not track my M3 the glaze spot is in the very high RPM area around 5500- 6000 RPM. If I press the M button with my setting being Sport Plus and I really get on it, as soon as I shift to 4th gear around 5500 RPM the clutch will slip and the RPM's would just max out
, I tried to swift to 5th gear max out, 6th gear max out. The clutch pedal will get really stiff and stick until I let off the gas. If I drive the car normal without pressing the M button and get on it, no problem in the high RPM's the car drives normal no problem. As long as I don't hot rod the car with the M button pressed there is no problem it just drives normal with no slip in the clutch or RPM. I called my service rep ask about a new clutch repair and he said $3400.00+ including labor, parts, clutch and he said that is not even including the fly wheel if it needs to be replaced . I know I am driving on borrowed time I am in no rush to fix this problem because, I don't daily drive my M3. I know it is going to cost $$$$ and the problem is only when I press the M button when I hit the high RPM's in 4th gear. If you are a E9X M owner you know if you are at the high RPM's in this gear you are driving pretty fast for a quick spirit run on a empty back road or at the track . I never notice this problem by normal driving, and it was hard to notice the problem at first. I thought I shift the gears to late because when it slip at 5500-6000 RPM it would happen so fast no time to react, I would be like WTF just happened. Sorry for the OP I just wanted everyone to know what they might start seeing when the 08 M3 start getting into the high miles. Still not looking forward to getting a new fly wheel and stuff at Stealership cost . I also don't trust just any shop to work on my M3 since most people clutch and flywheels have not started going out yet .
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![]() JZB,6MT, My mods 360 Forged 20inch wheels,VF540 Supercharger,Hamann CF roof spoiler,H&R springs,CF grills,Hamann rear trunk spoiler,Hamann Side Skirts, ARKYM full CF bumper, Gintani Race exhaust, AA X-pipe catless,RPI scoops,AA SSK, JZB painted side grills w/tinted markers, Arkym CF Double Sided Vented Hood,Arkym CF rear DiffuserLast edited by SHADY1; 02-16-2013 at 04:38 PM. |
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| 02-16-2013, 04:32 PM | #12 | |
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Zen
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