how to get to pin 13 remote wire?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by THE TECH

So you are saying that for the same $700 instead of buying the mobridge that it would just buy the aftermarket amps? Or am I confused?

If you code your CIC to output analog then you will be doing the same thing as buying the mObridge unit to take the digital inputs to your current OEM amp and convert them to analog.

Once the OEM amp is bypassed/replaced then aftermarket amps are required.

The main difference between coding and the mObridge unit is that you will lose the 7-band EQ at the iDrive screen if you code the unit to HiFi.

[THE TECH]

Originally Posted by Technic

If you code your CIC to output analog then you will be doing the same thing as buying the mObridge unit to take the digital inputs to your current OEM amp and convert them to analog.

Once the OEM amp is bypassed/replaced then aftermarket amps are required.

The main difference between coding and the mObridge unit is that you will lose the 7-band EQ at the iDrive screen if you code the unit to HiFi.

Do you feel that this is the smarter course of action based on the current situation? Are you able to remote code this?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by THE TECH

Do you feel that this is the smarter course of action based on the current situation? Are you able to remote code this?

Try the new LC2i first, with AccuBASS threashold full clockwise and AccuBASS gain at minimum from the beginning. Use the Bass output, GTO disabled and use a fuse at the 12V input of the LC2i.

If still not satisfied then contact forum member Mike Benvo, he can code your CIC remotely. I can provide you with the PnP RCA harness for the back as shown in the other thread.

Remember, you will need at least 8-channels of amplification and a DSP processor.

[THE TECH]

Originally Posted by Technic

Try the new LC2i first, with AccuBASS threashold full clockwise and AccuBASS gain at minimum from the beginning. Use the Bass output, GTO disabled and use a fuse at the 12V input of the LC2i.

If still not satisfied then contact forum member Mike Benvo, he can code your CIC remotely. I can provide you with the PnP RCA harness for the back as shown in the other thread.

Remember, you will need at least 8-channels of amplification and a DSP processor.

I already have a new one. The third one is on the way but I wasn't planning on opening it. You said GTO was automatically disabled when a remote wire is used. Do I need to change the jumper anyway?

I can go to Mike's house, so that's not an issue.

What do you recommend for a dsp? I would use JL HD amps for the 8-channels.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by THE TECH

I already have a new one. The third one is on the way but I wasn't planning on opening it. You said GTO was automatically disabled when a remote wire is used. Do I need to change the jumper anyway?

Because suddenly two units are acting up the same, I would like to disable all that it can be disabled to see if it make any difference. This is the very first LC2i negative issue that I have experienced in the 18 months or so of selling them with the harness.

I can go to Mike's house, so that's not an issue.

What do you recommend for a dsp? I would use JL HD amps for the 8-channels.

Either a MS-8 (factory warranty is a must) or a bit one.1 would work nicely with external amps with your EPS. The customer with the HD amps in the HiFi coding link ended up getting a MS-8 to tie all the amps together and have better control and tuning of all the 18 speakers (16 EPS and the 2 13" subs).

Again, try the new LC2i and see what happens first, IMO.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by THE TECH

Do you feel that this is the smarter course of action based on the current situation? Are you able to remote code this?

All depends of what you want. Coding is much more expensive and complicated than just adding the sub just because of the expense of getting the 8-channels of amplification and the DSP and then the install of all that. The benefit is better sound and control once you go analog. It is 100% reversible back to OEM.

I do not have the tools to remote code, but Mike Benvo and BimmerTech do.

[THE TECH]

Originally Posted by Technic

Because suddenly two units are acting up the same, I would like to disable all that it can be disabled to see if it make any difference. This is the very first LC2i negative issue that I have experienced in the 18 months or so of selling them with the harness.



Either a MS-8 (factory warranty is a must) or a bit one.1 would work nicely with external amps with your EPS. The customer with the HD amps in the HiFi coding link ended up getting a MS-8 to tie all the amps together and have better control and tuning of all the 18 speakers (16 EPS and the 2 13" subs).

Again, try the new LC2i and see what happens first, IMO.

Originally Posted by Technic

All depends of what you want. Coding is much more expensive and complicated than just adding the sub just because of the expense of getting the 8-channels of amplification and the DSP and then the install of all that. The benefit is better sound and control once you go analog. It is 100% reversible back to OEM.

I do not have the tools to remote code, but Mike Benvo and BimmerTech do.

Ok, tomorrow I will change the jumper on the LC2i that's currently in the car.

I will check pricing of the necessary parts and see if it's something I wanna delve into.

As of right now though, I changed the RCAs to the Bass Output and turned the knob to half way. The amp gain is around 1/4-1/2 iirc. This is just to get the sound I desire at the volume I want. These settings are higher than they were before my problems originally started (I had the XD600 and have since switched to the HD750). I am on the second LC2i. Still waiting on Musicar to get me a tracking number on the third LC2i that's supposedly on the way.

[ILSMKU]

Originally Posted by Technic

Try the new LC2i first, with AccuBASS threashold full clockwise and AccuBASS gain at minimum from the beginning. Use the Bass output, GTO disabled and use a fuse at the 12V input of the LC2i.

If still not satisfied then contact forum member Mike Benvo, he can code your CIC remotely. I can provide you with the PnP RCA harness for the back as shown in the other thread.

Remember, you will need at least 8-channels of amplification and a DSP processor.

Technic,

Not to argue you in any way... But from my research, the accubass is disables by turning the small threshold dial COUNTER CLOCK WISE AND the MAIN accubass dial on the top to COUNTER CLOCK WISE as well.

With the small threshold dial fully counter clockwise, any adjustment I made to the TOP accubass dial did nothing to my sound output.

If I turn the threshold all the way clockwise, and turn the accubass dial from low to high, or high to low, I can totally hear a difference.

And from my tests, the MAIN outputs also ARE affected by accubass settings. So both subs and the main outputs are affected by the accubass setting.

Thanks again for all your help.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by ILSMKU

Technic,

Not to argue you in any way... But from my research, the accubass is disables by turning the small threshold dial COUNTER CLOCK WISE AND the MAIN accubass dial on the top to COUNTER CLOCK WISE as well.

With the small threshold dial fully counter clockwise, any adjustment I made to the TOP accubass dial did nothing to my sound output.

If I turn the threshold all the way clockwise, and turn the accubass dial from low to high, or high to low, I can totally hear a difference.

And from my tests, the MAIN outputs also ARE affected by accubass settings. So both subs and the main outputs are affected by the accubass setting.

Thanks again for all your help.

Thanks... we both said the same: the initial setup should be threashold full clockwise and then AccuBASS gain at minimum. That locks the AccuBASS, meaning it does not "fill" the bass dips thus no effect. What bass comes in goes out without any filler.

Once that is done then the Bass gain should be increased instead of the AccuBASS gain. I do not think that the AccuBASS gain is working as it should.

[THE TECH]

Originally Posted by ILSMKU

Tech I'll hit you up on PM.

Never heard from ya. PM or text me if you wanna get together. I have a brand new LC2i arriving tomorrow and if you still want the sub, I can bring it all down at some point if you wanna hang.

[THE TECH]

Originally Posted by Technic

Try the new LC2i first, with AccuBASS threashold full clockwise and AccuBASS gain at minimum from the beginning. Use the Bass output, GTO disabled and use a fuse at the 12V input of the LC2i.

If still not satisfied then contact forum member Mike Benvo, he can code your CIC remotely. I can provide you with the PnP RCA harness for the back as shown in the other thread.

Remember, you will need at least 8-channels of amplification and a DSP processor.

Originally Posted by ILSMKU

Technic,

Not to argue you in any way... But from my research, the accubass is disables by turning the small threshold dial COUNTER CLOCK WISE AND the MAIN accubass dial on the top to COUNTER CLOCK WISE as well.

With the small threshold dial fully counter clockwise, any adjustment I made to the TOP accubass dial did nothing to my sound output.

If I turn the threshold all the way clockwise, and turn the accubass dial from low to high, or high to low, I can totally hear a difference.

And from my tests, the MAIN outputs also ARE affected by accubass settings. So both subs and the main outputs are affected by the accubass setting.

Thanks again for all your help.

Originally Posted by Technic

Thanks... we both said the same: the initial setup should be threashold full clockwise and then AccuBASS gain at minimum. That locks the AccuBASS, meaning it does not "fill" the bass dips thus no effect. What bass comes in goes out without any filler.

Once that is done then the Bass gain should be increased instead of the AccuBASS gain. I do not think that the AccuBASS gain is working as it should.

So with all that, should the threshold be fully clockwise or counterclockwise? I had done it clockwise since that's what you told me.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by THE TECH

So with all that, should the threshold be fully clockwise or counterclockwise? I had done it clockwise since that's what you told me.

Full clockwise...

[alpina527]

Technic: Whilst on the subject of the LC2i.

I have a pair of 4 ohm, SWS8s under the seat with premium system. The subs go through your harness, LC2i and JL XD400/4.

Since fitting the subs I have lost some midrange. What are your thoughts on configuring the system to run one SWS8 and one standard midrange sub?

Apart from the stereo issues is this do able?

I was thinking of running the standard sub through the premium amp with the SWS8 going through one side of the 400/4. Or would it be ok to run both subs through the 400/4 ?

[Technic]

Originally Posted by alpina527

Technic: Whilst on the subject of the LC2i.

I have a pair of 4 ohm, SWS8s under the seat with premium system. The subs go through your harness, LC2i and JL XD400/4.

Since fitting the subs I have lost some midrange. What are your thoughts on configuring the system to run one SWS8 and one standard midrange sub?

Apart from the stereo issues is this do able?

I was thinking of running the standard sub through the premium amp with the SWS8 going through one side of the 400/4. Or would it be ok to run both subs through the 400/4 ?

You can do one mid and one SWS-8, the question is why?

The main issue that I could see is the imbalance of sound coming from under the seats -you will have two different types of woofers (a sub and a mid) in a car with only two woofers powered by a stereo signal with only one crossover adjustment. On top of that, the OEM woofers are 7ohms, the SWS-8 are 2- or 4ohms, right there you will have one woofer sounding louder than the other. Something tells me that you will not like it in the long run.

Try this: put both OEM woofers back (powered by that XD400/4) and tell us what you think. The OEM woofers are supposed to be good down to 30Hz according to BMW, and the extra power should wake them up quite a bit.

[alpina527]

Thanks Technic. I was thinking perhaps that if I ran one stock sub via the conventional right channel through the premium amp It would be adjustable from the oem analyser.

The left channel could run via the 400/4 to give more low down bass which could be adjusted to a certain degree on the amp.

I was thinking this might fill to mid bass hole to some degree. Would I notice the stereo separation on the bass notes? I'm not sure.

Can I run the oem subs through the 400/4 with a 7 ohm rating? If so, I will give it a try

[Technic]

Originally Posted by alpina527

Thanks Technic. I was thinking perhaps that if I ran one stock sub via the conventional right channel through the premium amp It would be adjustable from the oem analyser.

The left channel could run via the 400/4 to give more low down bass which could be adjusted to a certain degree on the amp.

I was thinking this might fill to mid bass hole to some degree. Would I notice the stereo separation on the bass notes? I'm not sure.

Can I run the oem subs through the 400/4 with a 7 ohm rating? If so, I will give it a try

The only way to know is to try it. Make it happen.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

You guys are making a great case for Musicar Certified Sound systems. I got the OP's question, but I've been taking care of actual customers today, and for the record, free tech support for customers is for scheduled installs or as we get freed up, and free tech support for non-customers is when I have time, and comes with a free sarcasm entree.

But before you blow something up:







There is a solid black lead which is actually a coaxial lead, and there is a thinner black wire. You want the thinner black wire, which mimics the turn-on of the HiFi amp and so doesn't shut off until all the doors show closed and are locked and the trunk shows closed (ditto the hood IF you have BMW security), and all that is after a delay. So basically, if you don't go out of your way, this wire will test as having 12V on it most of the time. (I assume you guys are using a voltmeter to test the wire?)

If you have ANY sense at all for wiring, you can tell them apart. If you read this and say, "But how can I tell them apart?", please close the browser window immediately and make an appointment with someone who ought to be doing wiring in a BMW M3 vehicle.

Sorry to bring this old thread back to life.
I have used this thin black wire as remote wire to my amplifiers. It always worked fine til I changed my HU to aftermarket yesterday and this wire has no current.

Does anybody know the fuse number for this wires?

And is there any link b/w after market Fakra connectors and current in this wires (since I have gone for aftermarket fakra connector)?

Thanks.

[THE TECH]

Originally Posted by makkan00

Sorry to bring this old thread back to life.
I have used this thin black wire as remote wire to my amplifiers. It always worked fine til I changed my HU to aftermarket yesterday and this wire has no current.

Does anybody know the fuse number for this wires?

And is there any link b/w after market Fakra connectors and current in this wires (since I have gone for aftermarket fakra connector)?

Thanks.

No fuse that I'm aware of.

Does your new headunit not have a remote out?

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by THE TECH

No fuse that I'm aware of.

Does your new headunit not have a remote out?

It had, but then I have to lay new wire just for remote.

I cannot understand that going for aftermarket HU with correct Fakra can interfere with this wires.


And worst part is that no radio signals! (though proper aerial connector is used for the aftermarket HU.)

[THE TECH]

Originally Posted by makkan00

It had, but then I have to lay new wire just for remote.

I cannot understand that going for aftermarket HU with correct Fakra can interfere with this wires.


And worst part is that no radio signals! (though proper aerial connector is used for the aftermarket HU.)

That would be the correct way to do it though. The wire you want to tap is not meant for powering audio systems, we are just using it due to the limitations of the vehicle. I would highly suggest running a new, larger wire for your remote. It won't take you very long.

Most people don't change the headunit in the car as there isn't much need to.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by makkan00

Sorry to bring this old thread back to life.
I have used this thin black wire as remote wire to my amplifiers. It always worked fine til I changed my HU to aftermarket yesterday and this wire has no current.

Does anybody know the fuse number for this wires?

And is there any link b/w after market Fakra connectors and current in this wires (since I have gone for aftermarket fakra connector)?

Thanks.

OEM HU gone = thin black wire 12V gone

Your aftermarket HU remote out must be wired to pin 13 of your Metra interface harness instead.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Technic

OEM HU gone = thin black wire 12V gone

Your aftermarket HU remote out must be wired to pin 13 of your Metra interface harness instead.

Super tip!
HU remote wires was not connected to ISO harness ---> Metra interface.
Connected and remote wire working again.

Thanks Technic.