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      01-31-2013, 07:19 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhabs View Post
Thx tom, do you have the auto start/stop on your car (was worried about this using MINI battery setup)?
For those with Start/Stop, the Z4M battery might be a bit safer alternative as it packs a few more CCA/reserve.

Or simply disable the feature.
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      01-31-2013, 07:27 PM   #24
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+1 for battery from Sears. Had it since October if I'm not mistaken. It was under $200.
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      01-31-2013, 08:25 PM   #25
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The Sears battery is AGM right?
I'm assuming it's best to code for it too?
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      10-31-2013, 07:31 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
The battery itself isn't coded, the vehicle is coded to accept the new battery.



Hope this helps.
Great Technical info Tom. Thankyou.
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      10-31-2013, 09:59 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
+1 for battery from Sears. Had it since October if I'm not mistaken. It was under $200.
do you have the part number? do you keep your car on a battery tender?

also, how did you get it coded? The battery prices are quoted with a exchange.

http://www.sears.com/automotive-batt...R&viewItems=50

Last edited by mdosu; 10-31-2013 at 10:06 PM.
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      10-31-2013, 11:12 PM   #28
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You shouldn't need coding if the battery is close to the stock battery's CCA.
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      10-31-2013, 11:27 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdosu View Post
do you have the part number? do you keep your car on a battery tender?

also, how did you get it coded? The battery prices are quoted with a exchange.

http://www.sears.com/automotive-batt...R&viewItems=50
Don't have a part number unfortunately, I got it off the forum. It was a longer thread. It shouldn't be that hard to dig up. Mine has got that 2 piece at the top (like first, third and fifth in link you sent).

Had Benvo reset my battery, and I got coding done while he did it. To me, no seatbelt warning, rolling up windows with keyfob was worth it.

And no, my car is not on a tender. I drive it about twice a week and no problems. But considering how little you drive your car, I'd definitely get one for sure.
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      10-31-2013, 11:32 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdosu View Post
do you have the part number? do you keep your car on a battery tender?

also, how did you get it coded? The battery prices are quoted with a exchange.

http://www.sears.com/automotive-batt...R&viewItems=50
All the info you need is in this thread:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=884504

You will need the battery, coding cable, and the software linked in the thread to code it yourself. Takes all of 5 mins for the coding.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
You shouldn't need coding if the battery is close to the stock battery's CCA.
Incorrect. You need to code the car every time the battery is replaced.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...20&postcount=8

Last edited by whats77inaname; 10-31-2013 at 11:38 PM.
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      10-31-2013, 11:41 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
Don't have a part number unfortunately, I got it off the forum. It was a longer thread. It shouldn't be that hard to dig up. Mine has got that 2 piece at the top (like first, third and fifth in link you sent).

Had Benvo reset my battery, and I got coding done while he did it. To me, no seatbelt warning, rolling up windows with keyfob was worth it.

And no, my car is not on a tender. I drive it about twice a week and no problems. But considering how little you drive your car, I'd definitely get one for sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whats77inaname View Post
All the info you need is in this thread:

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=884504

You will need the battery, coding cable, and the software linked in the thread to code it yourself. Takes all of 5 mins for the coding.



Incorrect. You need to code the car every time the battery is replaced.

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...20&postcount=8
so basically, you did all the coding in the sear's parking lot? They wanted a core exchange...so I take it you needed to pull your old battery and give it to them for that $170 price.
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      10-31-2013, 11:45 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdosu View Post
so basically, you did all the coding in the sear's parking lot? They wanted a core exchange...so I take it you needed to pull your old battery and give it to them for that $170 price.

I removed the battery and took it up there in my truck so I exchanged it when I purchased the new one. I coded the battery a couple months later after I acquired the cable and located the software. Sears will replace the battery for ~$20ish while you wait, if you'd like. Driving the car for a bit until coded won't hurt it.

Coding via the BMWLogger software consists of booting up the machine, plugging the OBDII cable into the computer and the OBDII port, starting the software, and selecting the "Battery reset" option from the menu. You get a confirmation message, unplug, and you're done.

Last edited by whats77inaname; 10-31-2013 at 11:52 PM.
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      11-01-2013, 12:35 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdosu View Post
so basically, you did all the coding in the sear's parking lot? They wanted a core exchange...so I take it you needed to pull your old battery and give it to them for that $170 price.
Oh it's not like you have to code right there and then or else your car isn't going to start. I did it within a week or 2, no huge biggie. Just get it done eventually.

I forgot what I paid, but I brought it at home, didn't do a core exchange. I didn't know about it. It was prob $200 for me.
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      11-01-2013, 01:28 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whats77inaname View Post
I removed the battery and took it up there in my truck so I exchanged it when I purchased the new one. I coded the battery a couple months later after I acquired the cable and located the software. Sears will replace the battery for ~$20ish while you wait, if you'd like. Driving the car for a bit until coded won't hurt it.

Coding via the BMWLogger software consists of booting up the machine, plugging the OBDII cable into the computer and the OBDII port, starting the software, and selecting the "Battery reset" option from the menu. You get a confirmation message, unplug, and you're done.
Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
Oh it's not like you have to code right there and then or else your car isn't going to start. I did it within a week or 2, no huge biggie. Just get it done eventually.

I forgot what I paid, but I brought it at home, didn't do a core exchange. I didn't know about it. It was prob $200 for me.
hey guys, as always, I greatly appreciate this info.
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      11-02-2013, 01:48 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdosu View Post
hey guys, as always, I greatly appreciate this info.
+1 I'll go the Sears route as well. Looks like this is the battery:

http://www.sears.com/diehard-advance...3&blockType=G3
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      11-02-2013, 01:50 AM   #36
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I wonder what BMW would charge to reset/code my battery if I were to install one from SEARS?
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      11-02-2013, 02:20 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyM3_R1 View Post
I wonder what BMW would charge to reset/code my battery if I were to install one from SEARS?
likely okay with it...might vary dealer by dealer.
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      11-02-2013, 07:57 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whats77inaname View Post

Coding via the BMWLogger software consists of booting up the machine, plugging the OBDII cable into the computer and the OBDII port, starting the software, and selecting the "Battery reset" option from the menu. You get a confirmation message, unplug, and you're done.
Isn't that just resetting battery adaptation, as opposed to coding? I would describe coding as changing the amperage hours specification for a different size battery.
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      11-02-2013, 07:44 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Isn't that just resetting battery adaptation, as opposed to coding? I would describe coding as changing the amperage hours specification for a different size battery.
In reading a bunch of the threads on b-m-w-c-o-d-i-n-g.c-o-m, people call it registering the battery. In looking @ the BMWLogger software, the option says, "Register New Battery" so it has been my understanding that the registration of the battery via the software was all that is needed. I mentioned to Benvo in passing about my battery and coding when conversing about other coding and he mentioned that he could do it, but when I told him that I was going to use the BMWLogger software and do it myself, he just said, "okay" and didn't mention anything else needed to be done.

I will, however, verify w/him and post what he says.

Last edited by whats77inaname; 11-02-2013 at 08:11 PM.
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      11-02-2013, 07:50 PM   #40
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What is all this talk about having to code/reset a battery? First I hear of it and I just replaced my battery today. Everything seems to work okay... So why reset/code or whatever?

Am I using same inpa software to reset it that I used to code the seatbelt and other minor crap?
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      11-02-2013, 07:54 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostin FD View Post
What is all this talk about having to code/reset a battery? First I hear of it and I just replaced my battery today. Everything seems to work okay... So why reset/code or whatever?

Am I using same inpa software to reset it that I used to code the seatbelt and other minor crap?
BMW made charging a battery super complicated now. The computer/charger keeps track of how old the battery is and will charge it differently depending on how old the battery. If you don't reset the computer when you put in a new battery, it'll charge it like an old battery and the new battery will die a lot faster.

.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      11-02-2013, 08:02 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus View Post
BMW made charging a battery super complicated now. The computer/charger keeps track of how old the battery is and will charge it differently depending on how old the battery. If you don't reset the computer when you put in a new battery, it'll charge it like an old battery and the new battery will die a lot faster.

.
What a load of crap! Anything to charge you a trip to the dealer. Any ideas on how to register it? Which software is needed to do this?
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      11-02-2013, 08:07 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostin FD View Post
What a load of crap! Anything to charge you a trip to the dealer. Any ideas on how to register it? Which software is needed to do this?
I linked it in a post above. You need a K+DCAN INPA compatible coding cable, though. This is the exact one I have and use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/380684643069 $28 shipped. This is also the cable that will let coders code your car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyM3_R1 View Post
I wonder what BMW would charge to reset/code my battery if I were to install one from SEARS?
We can meet up sometime next week and I can do it for you for free.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
Isn't that just resetting battery adaptation, as opposed to coding? I would describe coding as changing the amperage hours specification for a different size battery.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whats77inaname View Post
In reading a bunch of the threads on b-m-w-c-o-d-i-n-g.c-o-m, people call it registering the battery. In looking @ the BMWLogger software, the option says, "Register New Battery" so it has been my understanding that the registration of the battery via the software was all that is needed. I mentioned to Benvo in passing about my battery and coding when conversing about other coding and he mentioned that he could do it, but when I told him that I was going to use the BMWLogger software and do it myself, he just said, "okay" and didn't mention anything else needed to be done.

I will, however, verify w/him and post what he says.

My question to him: "Question regarding battery registration: The BMWLogger software has a "New Battery Registration" option that I used to register my new battery. Do I need to do anything else?"

MB's response: "You would have to ask them as I didn't write the software, but I presume that's all that is required."

Last edited by whats77inaname; 11-02-2013 at 09:03 PM.
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      01-17-2015, 12:44 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostin FD View Post
What is all this talk about having to code/reset a battery? First I hear of it and I just replaced my battery today. Everything seems to work okay... So why reset/code or whatever?

Am I using same inpa software to reset it that I used to code the seatbelt and other minor crap?
Thread revival to warn people of not registering the battery and getting the correct specification.

This battery is now BAD according to my local Auto Zone and their testing equipment. That is just 1 year and 2 months (I assume Boostin did not have it registered, EDIT he did, not sure of the problem). The installed battery is 80ah and 640cca. I have been seeing 90ah and 850cca commonly. I do not know how to determine which battery this car came with. The condition window is black which means insufficiently charged.

I plan to replace it with an AGM battery (and have it registered/coded) which should hold charge longer and be considerably more powerful (cca and ah ratings anyways).
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Last edited by mxa121; 01-17-2015 at 11:29 AM.
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