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      01-26-2013, 04:59 PM   #1
Sean05
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DIY Spark Plug Change W/PHOTOS

Ill make this quick and short. FYI DRIVER SIDE IS EASY.. PASSENGER IS A PITA... you will sweat..

EDIT: YOU HAVE TO BE REALLY CAREFUL ON THE COILS.. IF YOU DONT HAVE THE PULLER YOU CAN BREAK THE TOP OF THE COIL AND WILL MAKE IT MORE HARDER TO DO. ALSO WHEN PUTTING THE COILS BACK IN.. MAKE SURE YOU HEAR A POP.

Step 1.
YOU NEED

Spark Plugs NGK LKR8AP (4471)
10mm Socket with extension
Torx screw driver (T25) to remove air intake box.
Coil Pack Removal Tool - By TxStig (ITS A MUST) if you want this fast and easy.
Flat Head Screw Driver.
Spark Plug Socket x2 one with rubber and one without to hold the sparkplug when putting it in...


REMOVE THE INTAKE BOX


THEN REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG COVER (SLOWLY LIFT THE COVER ON BOTH ENDS


THEN THIS IS WHAT YOU SEE..


UNPLUG THE COIL FROM THE POWER SOURCE..



NOW START PULLING THE COILS START FROM THE BACK






NOW TAKE THE PLUGS OUT..



NOW DO THE SAME TO ALL THE OTHER PLUGS.

BEFORE AND AFTER DEALER PLUGS AND AMAZON PLUGS ARE EXACT SAME THING.. ALSO BEFORE PUTTING THE PLUGS IN MAKE SURE THAT SPARK PLUG GAPS ARE NOT TOUCHING THE MIDDLE PIN.. MAKE SURE THAT ALL PLUGS ARE GAP PROPERLY... USUALLY PLUGS ARE GAP PROPERLY FROM THE MANUFACTURE SO NO NEED TO GAP THEM JUST MAKE SURE.


NOW PUT IT BACK IN TORQUE IT PROPERLY AND PUT EVERYTHING BACK...


PUT THE COVER BACK


BEFORE YOU PUT EVERYTHING BACK WHILE YOUR AT IT I SUGGEST CLEANING THE ENGINE..

THEN PUT THE AIR FILTER BACK..





NOW THE PASSENGER..
REMOVE 2 10MM BOLT AND CAREFULLY MOVE IT TO THE SIDE... SEE BELOW..
(BE CAREFUL AND DO NOT BEND THE HOSE ALSO AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WATER RESERVOIR YOU NEED TO UNPLUG THE THE WIRE FROM THE RESERVOIR) I SUGGEST LOOKING AT THE HOSE WHEN MOVING IT OUT OF THE WAY




NOW REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG COVER AGAIN SLIGHTLY PULL THE COVER


NOW HERES WHAT YOU WILL SEE..



IF YOU HAVE A COIL PULLER IT WILL BE EASY..
NOW WHEN YOU TAKE YOUR COIL OUT MAKE SURE IT DOES THE WAY I HAVE IT... (FYI ITS A VERY TIGHT FIT)


NOW TAKE THE PLUGS OUT..


I HAVE THE COILS IN ORDER. ALL TAKEN OUT.


NOW START PUTTING THE NEW SPARK PLUG IN..

LISTEN NOW BELOW PHOTO SHOWS WHERE I TOOK OUT THE COIL.. NOW WHEN PUTTING THE PLUGS IN YOU HAVE TO PUT IT THE SAME WAY


NOW PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER...


Its seriously that easy.. the only hard part was the passenger side. The coil close the the wall is a PITA.. with a coil puller though it made it so much easier.

I dont know about you but to those who are sensitive will notice the difference. Engine runs smoother...

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTION JUST PM ME...
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Last edited by Sean05; 01-27-2013 at 11:07 AM.
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      01-26-2013, 05:53 PM   #2
elm3
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Thanks for the write up and pictures. I've done this to another member's M3 and you are right, it is very easy if you have the coil puller. Thanks again and nice write up.
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      01-26-2013, 06:05 PM   #3
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Thank you very much for the nice step-by-step guide and pics. I am about to do mine. This helps ...
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      01-26-2013, 06:20 PM   #4
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Thanks for the DIY photos. How many miles were on your old plugs?
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      01-26-2013, 06:32 PM   #5
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      01-26-2013, 08:05 PM   #6
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      01-27-2013, 11:03 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy_H_E92_M3 View Post
Thanks for the DIY photos. How many miles were on your old plugs?
the 1st time my plugs were replaced was at 30k at the dealer. I now have 75k way over due for a plug change. Although the plugs were all in good shape since i drive like a grandma didnt really see anything wrong with it....

Quote:
Originally Posted by TxStig View Post
Great write up...thanks for the plug on the coil l pulling tool. I still have 20 or so coil pullers available. If anybody needs one let me know!!!
Hey thanks appreciated that you took your time making the coil puller..

I suggest everyone to get the plug it made it a whole lot easier.
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      01-27-2013, 11:13 AM   #8
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Nice with the photos. passenger firewall was indeed a bitch. I used the tekton extra long plug socket and found it easier than an extension so the torque wrench would fit. I don't know about you guys, but my plugs still measured .032 gap, so I'm not sure where the wear comes into play. I expected the gap to grow *changed mine at 20k though* ...
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      01-27-2013, 11:58 AM   #9
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Thanks for the DIY, the added photos make a difference.
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      01-27-2013, 06:30 PM   #10
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Thanks for the DIY, Sean. Good stuff, passenger side is definitely a tight fit, but TxStig's puller makes it much easier.
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      01-28-2013, 12:55 AM   #11
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Nice writeup, how long did this take you?

At the dealer, they list it as a 2-3 hour job.
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      01-28-2013, 09:36 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sensi09 View Post
Nice writeup, how long did this take you?

At the dealer, they list it as a 2-3 hour job.
yes its about a 2 hour job. not 3 for sure. Took me around an hour and 45 due to being OCD. Started wiping everything i can touch and clean the engine bay as well...

BMW should take no longer an 2 hours since they have the proper tools. Even with TxStig tools that i bought it was so easy but had a bit of complication when taking the coil out close the the firewall due to space. Other than that it was a breeze.
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      01-28-2013, 09:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBB View Post
Thanks for the DIY, Sean. Good stuff, passenger side is definitely a tight fit, but TxStig's puller makes it much easier.
hahah yea i know without it i probably got stucked for another hour or so...

otherwise it was so damn simple. i could do it all day.. LOL
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      01-28-2013, 10:28 AM   #14
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Nicely done!
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      01-28-2013, 02:26 PM   #15
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How often does this need to be done? Mileage wise
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      01-28-2013, 02:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
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How often does this need to be done? Mileage wise
Every 37,000 miles according to the manual.
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      01-28-2013, 02:37 PM   #17
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Every 37,000 miles according to the manual.
Crapola, I'm at 46,000. I need to get this done, or DIMyself.
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      01-28-2013, 02:45 PM   #18
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Thank you so much for this! I will need to do this one day!
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      01-28-2013, 02:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSanto View Post
Crapola, I'm at 46,000. I need to get this done, or DIMyself.
your dealer should have replaced it around 30k ... they replaced mine at 30k so as everyone else. so i think you should be good.. but just incase id would check with the dealer.
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      01-28-2013, 03:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean05 View Post
your dealer should have replaced it around 30k ... they replaced mine at 30k so as everyone else. so i think you should be good.. but just incase id would check with the dealer.
I'm out of warranty. I asked them on one of my last services if they could replace them, and they said "It would come up on the computer if they needed replacing"
This was at around 38k
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      01-28-2013, 04:18 PM   #21
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You can always try to show them the attached excerpt from the Service & Warranty manual. They'll still claim they will wait for the key to call for it but worth a shot.
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File Type: pdf e90 m3 service and warranty manual excerpt.pdf (244.7 KB, 268 views)
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      01-28-2013, 04:22 PM   #22
Sean05
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Quote:
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You can always try to show them the attached excerpt from the Service & Warranty manual. They'll still claim they will wait for the key to call for it but worth a shot.
haha Yes print this and show them... warranty out or not they still should replace it.. if not call BMW corp... i dont know if that would help but at least you have something that in writing.
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