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      12-08-2012, 03:09 PM   #1
1MOREMOD
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wanted DIY OEM rotor removal

looks like a pretty easy job as i change pads all the time. just wondering if there is a DIY for rotor replacement or any tricks i needed to know. Have Turner stud kit so will have to pull those and replace into new hat. thanks
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      12-09-2012, 09:24 PM   #2
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There aren't any real tricks, but I'd recommend a couple of things:
- remove the set screws before you remove the calipers otherwise you won't have anything to stop the rotors from turning when you try to remove these screws.
- make sure to disengage parking brake when actually removing the rear rotors
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      12-09-2012, 09:36 PM   #3
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okay thanks. those are both good tips.
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      12-17-2012, 11:04 PM   #4
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anyone find one i still havent.
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      12-18-2012, 01:18 AM   #5
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I am looking for the same thing
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      12-18-2012, 09:27 AM   #6
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Bump! I need this DIY as well.
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      12-18-2012, 10:55 AM   #7
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I'm also wondering about wheel bearings. My guess is that removal of the rotor gives easy access for their replacement. Not sure if I need it yet at 27K but there have track miles
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      01-17-2013, 11:11 PM   #8
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The removal of the rotor is pretty easy once you have the caliber off. Just put some wd40 into the center if the rotor is stuck, then just use a mallet to hit the rotor from behind as you rotate the rotor, and it should come off. It's pretty straight forward. Hope this helps.
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      01-17-2013, 11:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooshay View Post
The removal of the rotor is pretty easy once you have the caliber off. Just put some wd40 into the center if the rotor is stuck, then just use a mallet to hit the rotor from behind as you rotate the rotor, and it should come off. It's pretty straight forward. Hope this helps.
can the studs be left in as they are loctited in?
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      01-18-2013, 12:06 AM   #10
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good question. what is the difference in re /re with a bbk kit?
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      01-18-2013, 09:45 AM   #11
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Removal of front and rear are straightforward. You may need to use a hammer with the screwdriver to remove the set screw depending on how old your brakes are. Also, the rotors may be hard to remove due to rust. A good plastic mallet will help here. Otherwise, removal is the same as any other car.
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      01-18-2013, 10:34 AM   #12
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Went to change them out last night but still have 28.5 to 28.7 left so gonna wait a few more track days and change em out in the spring.
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      02-13-2013, 08:01 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
Went to change them out last night but still have 28.5 to 28.7 left so gonna wait a few more track days and change em out in the spring.
What is the minimal rotor thickness before needing to replace? (StopTechs)
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      02-17-2013, 10:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
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What is the minimal rotor thickness before needing to replace? (StopTechs)
On the outside edge of the rotor, there is a min thickness stamp. I'd guesstimate for your rotors that it will be 31 mm.
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      02-18-2013, 10:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
Removal of front and rear are straightforward. You may need to use a hammer with the screwdriver to remove the set screw depending on how old your brakes are. Also, the rotors may be hard to remove due to rust. A good plastic mallet will help here. Otherwise, removal is the same as any other car.
how do you use a hammer and screw driver on a hex head fitting?
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      02-18-2013, 02:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
how do you use a hammer and screw driver on a hex head fitting?
I think this was more-so directed at removing the rotor. Sometimes they get stuck on and you need to pry them off with a screw driver or 'motivate' them with some shots from a deadblow hammer. When trying to get the rotor loose stand clear as best you can because you don't want the rotor landing in your foot.
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      02-18-2013, 02:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I think this was more-so directed at removing the rotor. Sometimes they get stuck on and you need to pry them off with a screw driver or 'motivate' them with some shots from a deadblow hammer. When trying to get the rotor loose stand clear as best you can because you don't want the rotor landing in your foot.
Okay that makes more sense. Pulling the fronts tonight. Hopefully the set screws aren't a bitch. Are those 2 little screws really all that keeps my entire rotor and wheel assembly from shooting off into the woods?
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      02-18-2013, 03:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Okay that makes more sense. Pulling the fronts tonight. Hopefully the set screws aren't a bitch. Are those 2 little screws really all that keeps my entire rotor and wheel assembly from shooting off into the woods?
no, the screws are there only to hold the rotor onto the hub. Thats it. On cars with studs or BMWs with the stud conversion, they arent *really* needed since the wheel keeps it pressed against the hub like any other car on the road.
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      02-18-2013, 04:48 PM   #19
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no, the screws are there only to hold the rotor onto the hub. Thats it. On cars with studs or BMWs with the stud conversion, they arent *really* needed since the wheel keeps it pressed against the hub like any other car on the road.
Okay got it. So the set screws are just that. Locate the hat on the mounting plate. Then the wheel torque holds the assembly on to that backing plate.
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      02-18-2013, 05:42 PM   #20
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Please don't be like me and forget to release the hand brake when trying to remove the rear rotors.
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      02-18-2013, 06:26 PM   #21
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Please don't be like me and forget to release the hand brake when trying to remove the rear rotors.
Thanks already got that tip and only doing the fronts this time.
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      02-19-2013, 01:20 AM   #22
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just did this tonight. barely takes any more time than pads do. super easy. my set screws were easily removed and the rotor just fell off no need to beat it first with a hammer. it took longer to double nut my studs as i was replacing my turners for new set of apex at the same time.
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