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      01-17-2013, 05:33 AM   #1
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Engine Malf.

So I just changed the spark plugs and it wasn't that difficult with the exception of cylinders 4 and 8. I torque to 25nm just to make sure (spec is 23) and put everything back together. Coils are in nicely with the pop, everything is connected, but when I turned on the engine (and I tried this a few times over and over) I keep getting an engine malf. BT cables pulls up 2755, cylinder 3 ignition elect. diagnostics.

I first thought the coil wasn't set properly. I reinstalled it, still an issue. Okay, maybe the coil is bad and I ruined it. Switched it with cylinder 2 coil, same code. So I am guessing that either a wire got snipped, or maybe the plug was bad, but does anyone know exactly what this code means? I was also very careful when doing this.
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      01-17-2013, 11:14 AM   #2
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make sure you take the coil completely unplugged from the wiring. Blow around getting rid of any dust and make sure you connect the harness back to the coil so it snaps well. I have done this job twice and never had an issue but that is what I would try
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      01-17-2013, 11:39 AM   #3
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EDIT: 1st i thought it was the coil but since you mentioned that you have done all the troubleshoot.

subscribe.. i will be replacing mine soon..
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      01-17-2013, 11:43 AM   #4
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You have a 2010 that already needs plugs? How many miles?
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      01-17-2013, 11:53 AM   #5
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There are many reasons why '2755' (Control Line Ignition Cylinder 3) would be thrown, you'll have to see the secondary code to figure out which one of these it might be:

P132B: Ionic Current Control Module Control Line Ignition Cylinder 3 High

P2307: Ignition Coil 'C' Primary Control Circuit High

P130D: Ionic Current Control Module Control Line Ignition Cylinder 3 Low

P2306: Ignition Coil 'C' Primary Control Circuit Low

P0353: Ignition Coil 'C' Primary Control Circuit/Open

P133F: Ionic Current Control Module Control Line Ignition Cylinder 3 Open Circuit

In any case, has to do with voltage PIN A_S_ICC being too high or too low during an active ignition pulse.

Most likely the plug or wiring harness on that cylinder.

Hope this helps
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      01-17-2013, 11:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
You have a 2010 that already needs plugs? How many miles?
It's not unlikely.. Mine were changed at 30k miles.
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      01-17-2013, 12:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
It's not unlikely.. Mine were changed at 30k miles.
37,000 miles per the manual so I guess it's plausible.
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      01-17-2013, 12:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
37,000 miles per the manual so I guess it's plausible.
Supposed to be after every 3rd oil change IIRC.

I'm planning on hounding them to replace mine at 59K right before my maintenance warranty expires.

TECH... Just kidding
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Last edited by Mike Benvo; 01-17-2013 at 12:37 PM.
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      01-17-2013, 12:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
37,000 miles per the manual so I guess it's plausible.
^^I ownz you!
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      01-17-2013, 01:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo
There are many reasons why '2755' (Control Line Ignition Cylinder 3) would be thrown, you'll have to see the secondary code to figure out which one of these it might be:

P132B: Ionic Current Control Module Control Line Ignition Cylinder 3 High

P2307: Ignition Coil 'C' Primary Control Circuit High

P130D: Ionic Current Control Module Control Line Ignition Cylinder 3 Low

P2306: Ignition Coil 'C' Primary Control Circuit Low

P0353: Ignition Coil 'C' Primary Control Circuit/Open

P133F: Ionic Current Control Module Control Line Ignition Cylinder 3 Open Circuit

In any case, has to do with voltage PIN A_S_ICC being too high or too low during an active ignition pulse.

Most likely the plug or wiring harness on that cylinder.

Hope this helps
Hey Mike, no secondary codes except the usual two: emergency program activated and car going into emergency program. 2755 is all by itself. I double checked the wiring harness and snapped it a few times more also because that was my first thought. Ill try looking for dust again per Munits suggestion.
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      01-17-2013, 01:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH
You have a 2010 that already needs plugs? How many miles?
Hehe this is my second set. I plan to change them every 30 since maybe people here do that and that interval is easier to keep track of. I have 61k miles so far. No issues thus far (except at my own hands and the hard top was getting loose a little).
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      01-17-2013, 02:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C|3R1C View Post
Hey Mike, no secondary codes except the usual two: emergency program activated and car going into emergency program. 2755 is all by itself. I double checked the wiring harness and snapped it a few times more also because that was my first thought. Ill try looking for dust again per Munits suggestion.
When I say secondary codes - your 2755 error IS from one of the P#### numbers above. 2755 can be caused by one or more of those listed, it won't show a separate one. You would need a BMW scanner to see which one of those faults I listed is causing the 2755 code (as 2755 could be any of those).
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      01-17-2013, 02:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo

When I say secondary codes - your 2755 error IS from one of the P#### numbers above. 2755 can be caused by one or more of those listed, it won't show a separate one. You would need a BMW scanner to see which one of those faults I listed is causing the 2755 code (as 2755 could be any of those).
Oh okay I didn't quite understand that. Thanks Mike.
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      01-17-2013, 02:22 PM   #14
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What brand did you go with?
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      01-17-2013, 02:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe@trinityautosport
What brand did you go with?
Oem plugs. Ngk 4471 from amazon.
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      01-17-2013, 05:59 PM   #16
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try moving the plugs in another cylinder.. im guessing its the plugs although its very unlikely but hey you never know...

I have the same plug and ill wait to change them after the results..lol
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      01-17-2013, 06:34 PM   #17
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Dude I wish you luck. And post what the resolution ends up being.I hate doing DIY and having something go wrong.
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      01-17-2013, 08:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean05
try moving the plugs in another cylinder.. im guessing its the plugs although its very unlikely but hey you never know...

I have the same plug and ill wait to change them after the results..lol
I ordered another one from amazon arriving Saturday (love prime lol) so I'm seeing if that will work. All the electrical stuff seems intact so this is my last resort before I go to the dealership. I was thinking of switching plugs, but the crush washers are one time use :/
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      01-17-2013, 08:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knolow
Dude I wish you luck. And post what the resolution ends up being.I hate doing DIY and having something go wrong.
Thanks man. Always something when I touch my car lol.
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      01-17-2013, 11:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
37,000 miles per the manual so I guess it's plausible.
Mine got changed at 27k miles...

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      01-17-2013, 11:45 PM   #21
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If the fault followed I would install a new coil worst case if it doesn't fix it you can still return it. If the fault doesn't follow check the plug for cracks and check the gap! We had a 335i in the shop and I did a set of plugs and when I was done the check engine light came on. Fault was for a misfire , I inspected the plug on that cylinder and found that gap was incorrect , my thinking is that the plug was dropped at one time or another . Good luck !Let us know how its turns out.
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      01-23-2013, 05:57 AM   #22
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So I will be the first to publicly admit my own stupidity so please ease on the flame . From reading things on the forum, most notably the spark plug DIY, I always thought that bank 1 was drivers side and bank 2 was passenger side. Well that was wrong, and it took me this long to figure it out that plugs 1-4 are passenger, and 5-8 are drivers. Stupid stupid stupid.... anyways, after my troubleshooting on the wrong cylinder, I ordered a new plug. On saturday I swapped it out with cylinder "3" (which is now 7). Still did not work. I still wanted a notable solution before I reported back, but there was nothing I could do until tonight. Today (Tuesday) I texted my SA to ask a tech WTF could have happened. First response was coil packs. When I said that I had switched them as a troubleshoot, he said he would get back to me tomorrow (Wednesday). I decided to look at my car again. After an hour of starring at the engine and switching the packs on cylinder 7 AGAIN, I decided to would just make sure I had the right one. After about ten seconds of googling, I found my mistake, popped off the passenger side cover, unplugged the coil pack, double checked to make sure there was no damage/dust/etc, plugged it back in, and started the car. Everything is back to normal; no errors, car is smooth again, and I feel stupid for not checked the internet first. My guess is that it wasn't plugged in correctly or maybe a little dust was impairing the connection.

Long story short, know your stuff >_>
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