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      12-29-2012, 10:48 AM   #1
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New StopTech racing pads!

Found out Stoptech has just released a new racing pad. MSRP is $362 for the ST-60 caliper and $291 for the ST-40, pricing is supposed to be the same for all of the different compounds. So $650ish for both axles on your typical ST60/ST40 BBK for an E9X M3? That's about $100 less than Pagids and $150 less than PFCs.

So they are cheaper...but are they better? Honestly, I doubt that Stoptech (part of Centric) came up with some new ground breaking technology that will blow all other pads away. The question is likely who's pad compound is Stop Tech using?

Stoptech Racing Pads
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      12-29-2012, 11:15 AM   #2
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Their own street performance pads are the best dual purpose pad I've ever used, it wouldn't surprise me if they had their own racing pads too.
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      12-29-2012, 11:24 AM   #3
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Interesting for sure but I am paying about that for Pagids RS14/29 here in Canada.I am sure I will try them to see how well they work.
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      12-29-2012, 11:56 AM   #4
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I may test these at Circuit of the Americas in a couple of weeks and I was thinking about how to set up a test to collect useful data.

I think COTA will be the perfect place to test these. There's a 3/4 mile long straight that unlike most that utilize NASCAR ovals, the overall elevation change is neglible. At Texas World Speedway, you have to climb up the banking a little due to the trajectory of the fastest line exiting the turns leading onto that front straight. Back to COTA, 3/4 mile straight that starts down hill, climbs up, back down a bit into a flat braking zone into a sharp left hander. On Vettel's pole lap, he went from 308 kph to about 86 kph. For us americans, Vettel was scrubbing off 140mph which according to the commentators is -6g's of force! I will not be going anywhere near those speeds but I would hazard a very rough guess that I'll be going from 140mph to about 40 mph.

How about this...I know I'll get at least 4 sessions on the full course. So I run 2 with the Pagid Yellows and then 2 with the ST Racing pads. I'll try to pick something comparable (less initial bite, longer life).

I'll be in my E90 M3 with NT01s. The only adjustment other than the pads is tire pressure after each session...target is 38psi hot. I'll swap and measure the pads after 2 sessions. I'll use a micrometer which reads 100th of mm (Nanometer???...not sure what that is since I'm a filthy Imperialist American).

I'll collect the following data points:

# hot laps (subtract warm up and cool down)
before thickness of pads
after thickness of pads from 2 sessions

Divide the # laps into the change in pad thickness to get a wear rate of per lap. Of course, add in the subjective measurements of fade resistance, pedal modulation (on/off or a progressive feel), stopping power.

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      12-29-2012, 12:01 PM   #5
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Great find! I might try these next season in my ST60/ST40 setup.

What do you think--SR34 front and SR33 rear?
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      12-29-2012, 12:05 PM   #6
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I'm also thinking about the SR34...but at all four corners. I'll have to call Stoptech.
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      12-29-2012, 12:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I may test these at Circuit of the Americas in a couple of weeks and I was thinking about how to set up a test to collect useful data.
Awesome idea. Will look forward to your results. What a great opportunity to run on COTA--driving on the same surface after the recent F1 race, you'll be rubbing rubber with the greats (wait, that didn't sound quite right).

On that 3/4 mile straight, I'll wager you'll do even better than 140. In the video, Vettel was flat out at max speed for what seemed like a really long time there.


Oh, and a mm is 10^-3 meter, a micrometer is 10^-6 meter, and a nanometer is 10^-9 meter. How would I know?



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      12-29-2012, 12:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98 View Post
Awesome idea. Will look forward to your results. What a great opportunity to run on COTA--driving on the same surface after the recent F1 race, you'll be rubbing rubber with the greats (wait, that didn't sound quite right).

On that 3/4 mile straight, I'll wager you'll do even better than 140. In the video, Vettel was flat out at max speed for what seemed like a really long time there.


Oh, and a mm is 10^-3 meter, a micrometer is 10^-6 meter, and a nanometer is 10^-9 meter. How would I know?



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      12-29-2012, 04:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Found out Stoptech has just released a new racing pad. MSRP is $362 for the ST-60 caliper and $291 for the ST-40, pricing is supposed to be the same for all of the different compounds. So $650ish for both axles on your typical ST60/ST40 BBK for an E9X M3? That's about $100 less than Pagids and $150 less than PFCs.

So they are cheaper...but are they better? Honestly, I doubt that Stoptech (part of Centric) came up with some new ground breaking technology that will blow all other pads away. The question is likely who's pad compound is Stop Tech using?

Stoptech Racing Pads
I've asked all sorts of people about these and nobody knows anything. Look forward to your results.
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      12-29-2012, 06:01 PM   #10
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I've ordered SR34s front and rear for my E90 M3. If anyone has anymore ideas on my test plan...let me know.
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      12-29-2012, 08:18 PM   #11
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I'm interested too... especially how they compare with PFC01 and cobalt XR1's
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      12-29-2012, 08:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I've ordered SR34s front and rear for my E90 M3. If anyone has anymore ideas on my test plan...let me know.
When you change the pads for the comparison you might have an issue with dissimilar pad layer on the discs.You either have to figure out how to clean your discs and do a proper bed in of the new pads.If not your impressions could be skewed.Who knows maybe it will not even be an issue.If the ST pads are similar to the Pagids in make up this might be a waste of time to worry about..
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      12-29-2012, 08:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead999s View Post
When you change the pads for the comparison you might have an issue with dissimilar pad layer on the discs.You either have to figure out how to clean your discs and do a proper bed in of the new pads.If not your impressions could be skewed.Who knows maybe it will not even be an issue.If the ST pads are similar to the Pagids in make up this might be a waste of time to worry about..
All out race pads (like pfc01 and xr1) don't need bedding... in fact when cold they are so abrasive it will remove all bedding from previous pads. then when you bring them up to temp they put their own bedding down. if you want to clean off the surface of your rotors just put race pads on and drive on the street home
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      12-29-2012, 08:56 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 4sevens.com View Post
All out race pads (like pfc01 and xr1) don't need bedding... in fact when cold they are so abrasive it will remove all bedding from previous pads. then when you bring them up to temp they put their own bedding down. if you want to clean off the surface of your rotors just put race pads on and drive on the street home
I know it usually takes about 200 miles of street driving with my RS14's to clean up the discs of pad transfer.Whether the OP has enough time after the pad change to make this happen is another issue.That being said the only time I had issues was going from Hawk HP+'s to Pagid RS19's without any cleanup time and that caused big time brake shudder until I did a full cycle re bedin.
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      12-29-2012, 09:27 PM   #15
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it takes me 50 miles or less... highway driving cools down the pads quick... just hit them half a down times and theres not pad transfer left
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      12-29-2012, 09:43 PM   #16
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it takes me 50 miles or less... highway driving cools down the pads quick... just hit them half a down times and theres not pad transfer left
What pads are you running?

I find the Pagids are quite easy on the discs even on the street so it takes a lot to clean them.

I am also running a ST380/355 setup.
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      12-29-2012, 09:54 PM   #17
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I just burned through a set of dtc70's in only 4 track days... they have incredible bite but are very hard to modulate... and I don't think they are all out race pads as they still require bedding. I'm looking to get a set of pfc01 or xr1 now.
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      12-29-2012, 09:54 PM   #18
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I would say that the testing plan is be good except the track will likely be quite cold in the morning versus the afternoon. Plus it'll take a while to learn the track (it will for me) so the morning sessions will be slower than the afternoon sessions.

Too bad we don't only have one day to drive.
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      12-29-2012, 11:24 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
...The only adjustment ... is tire pressure after each session...target is 38psi hot.
If you feel inclined to try something new, take a lap or two at 34 or 35 hot. I was talking to a guy I know that really knows how to set cars up, and he said my tire pressures were too high at 38. Just to prove him wrong I tried 35 and I'm not going back.
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      12-30-2012, 12:27 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead999s View Post
When you change the pads for the comparison you might have an issue with dissimilar pad layer on the discs.You either have to figure out how to clean your discs and do a proper bed in of the new pads.If not your impressions could be skewed.Who knows maybe it will not even be an issue.If the ST pads are similar to the Pagids in make up this might be a waste of time to worry about..
Good point! So here's the schedule...

1. Arrive at track
2. Measure rotors and pagids, install pagids
3. Bed in pads
4. Run 2 sessions
5. Measure rotors and pagids, install ST pads
6. Bed in pads
7. Run 2 sessions
8. Measure rotors and ST pads

Quote:
Originally Posted by TXmtrhed View Post
I would say that the testing plan is be good except the track will likely be quite cold in the morning versus the afternoon. Plus it'll take a while to learn the track (it will for me) so the morning sessions will be slower than the afternoon sessions.

Too bad we don't only have one day to drive.
Yeah but I think the brakes will take about the same amount of beating. The temp difference seems to be about 15-20 degrees ambient on average. I don't think that will make too much of a difference as far as brakes are concerned. As long as the tires can get up to temp quickly.

Quote:
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If you feel inclined to try something new, take a lap or two at 34 or 35 hot. I was talking to a guy I know that really knows how to set cars up, and he said my tire pressures were too high at 38. Just to prove him wrong I tried 35 and I'm not going back.
OK but my tires will look flat when they are cold!
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      12-30-2012, 12:46 AM   #21
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If you feel inclined to try something new, take a lap or two at 34 or 35 hot. I was talking to a guy I know that really knows how to set cars up, and he said my tire pressures were too high at 38. Just to prove him wrong I tried 35 and I'm not going back.
What setup are you running?I like to see 38-40 hot which means I have to start at 26-28 cold.I normally see a pressure rise of 10 psi with sometimes as high as 14psi depending on the track & grip levels.Any lower levels to start and I am sure I will pop a bead on the outlap till the pressures come up.
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      12-30-2012, 09:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
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What setup are you running?I like to see 38-40 hot which means I have to start at 26-28 cold.I normally see a pressure rise of 10 psi with sometimes as high as 14psi depending on the track & grip levels.Any lower levels to start and I am sure I will pop a bead on the outlap till the pressures come up.
Running NT-01s, 30-31 cold gives me 39-40 hot. I hate the feeling of anything in the 20s, even for a few laps, feels sloppy and I roll over the shoulders way too much. Couldn't imagine 25psi...
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