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      12-11-2012, 05:30 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by ortho281 View Post
I agree, the dealers may just be drumming up business. I find that some pads are more likely to leave deposits than others. I have switched from using PFC z-rated (street) and PFC-06 (track) to using StopTech street performance for both Street/Track. They hold up well to track use (MOT of 1350 F), have good cold friction (street) and are quiet. My only complaint is the StopTech only last about 6 track days. When summer rolls around, I will switch back to the PFC-06 for the track.
6 days seems like a lot to me. i think im getting 2-3 days out of my ferodo ds2500s on the front. rears last forever. havent tried stop-techs. like pagid rs 19s also but seem to wear the rotors pretty bad on the street. may have to give pfcs a try.
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      12-11-2012, 05:34 PM   #68
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I have to strongly agree with others here that the situation might well be your driving habits.

As others pointed out the rotors are steel and precision machined. Break Pads are soft so what the dealer refers to as wrapping can only evolve if you "ride your brakes hard" Keep in mind the breaks when used will get very hot this heat over time will cause break rotors to not only wear also to distort. This then will cause the break pads to wear prematurely.

I make good use of downshifting and anticipating upcomming stops ahead of me. No matter if you have a manual or DCT you need to have a serious look at your breaking habits.

Just my friendly 2 cents.

PS. If you use your downshifts to assist you in breaking, you might even discover some very exciting exhaust notes you may never heard before
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      12-11-2012, 05:39 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriszeh View Post
6 days seems like a lot to me. i think im getting 2-3 days out of my ferodo ds2500s on the front. rears last forever. havent tried stop-techs. like pagid rs 19s also but seem to wear the rotors pretty bad on the street. may have to give pfcs a try.
I was thinking about trying the ds2500s, but decided to try the StopTech's instead. If you are only getting 2-3 days, looks like I will have to stick with the ST.
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      12-11-2012, 05:43 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ortho281 View Post
I was thinking about trying the ds2500s, but decided to try the StopTech's instead. If you are only getting 2-3 days, looks like I will have to stick with the ST.
i would venture to say i get better bite in those 2-3 days then you do with the stop techs but dont know that for sure. i feel the ds2500 is comparable to the rs19s just dont wear forever like them. i think the stop techs might be cheaper. i pay 159 for fronts. ds2500s arent as quiet as the stop tech either.
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      12-11-2012, 06:56 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriszeh View Post
i would venture to say i get better bite in those 2-3 days then you do with the stop techs but dont know that for sure. i feel the ds2500 is comparable to the rs19s just dont wear forever like them. i think the stop techs might be cheaper. i pay 159 for fronts. ds2500s arent as quiet as the stop tech either.
The ST have good bite (hot or cold), but maybe not as much as a full race pad hot. Fronts are only $105. I've seen them as low as $89.

OP should try a set of these. After bedding-in they will get rid of any deposits and may solve the vibration issues. They also take much more abuse than the OEM pads.
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      12-17-2012, 02:41 AM   #72
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Tried regular street driving for a week to possibly clear deposits, same problem still here with the vibration. I did recently get new tires is it possible that not properly torquing the lugs could cause a warped rotor or cause uneven deposits from the pads?
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      12-17-2012, 12:08 PM   #73
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Tried regular street driving for a week to possibly clear deposits, same problem still here with the vibration. I did recently get new tires is it possible that not properly torquing the lugs could cause a warped rotor or cause uneven deposits from the pads?
I had vibrations five or six weeks after a track event (normally I have a short commute and am pretty easy on my street pads) and I was convinced I had warped the rotors. The dealer said so too. But when they said they were going to replace all four rotors on warrenty I thought that was BS. Took my car home and put on the track pads and used StopTech's method for scrubbing them with perfect results.

Try this first.
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      12-17-2012, 12:20 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXmtrhed View Post
I had vibrations five or six weeks after a track event (normally I have a short commute and am pretty easy on my street pads) and I was convinced I had warped the rotors. The dealer said so too. But when they said they were going to replace all four rotors on warrenty I thought that was BS. Took my car home and put on the track pads and used StopTech's method for scrubbing them with perfect results.

Try this first.
Thanks! How long do the install take on your pads? I'm somewhat of a newbie when it comes to do-it-yourself brake stuff. Curious what the dealer based their conclusion on, did they measure or spinout the rotors to determine they were "warped"?
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      12-17-2012, 07:50 PM   #75
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it will take you a little while at first to get the pads changed but once you have done it a few times its about 15 minutes per corner.
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      12-17-2012, 07:58 PM   #76
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Service guy says rotors have a blue hue from heat so they didn't even check if they were warped or not they assumed that they were. $1400 bucks for front rotors and front pads, waiting to hear back from service manager about warranty. For 1400 bucks I might as well get aftermarket rotors and pads? if I get stock they're covered under warranty unless I "blue" them out again...
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      12-17-2012, 10:19 PM   #77
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Sometimes if you street drive and never use the brakes hard the rotors will glaze and cause the wheel to shudder. Machining the rotors would clear that up.

But can you machine drilled rotors?
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      12-17-2012, 10:36 PM   #78
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no you cant.
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