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      10-23-2012, 07:30 PM   #23
MikeE92M3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yolkster View Post
I noticed this with most aftermarket setups on this car (even really high end setups)..the tips and spacing around the bumper cover never look quite as aligned as OEM..
I will agree with this, even though myself and my muffler tech spent time ensuring it all looks good. must just be the angle of the pics but I know once I get my diffuser I think it will make it look good.
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      10-25-2012, 09:40 PM   #24
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I also have identical problem with drone. Where can I guy this chamber and have it welded.
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      10-25-2012, 09:42 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Chriskm3 View Post
I also have identical problem with drone. Where can I guy this chamber and have it welded.

all you need is a length of reg pipe welded closed on one end. OP (like AA) decided to use a resonator.
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      10-26-2012, 09:15 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3an View Post
all you need is a length of reg pipe welded closed on one end. OP (like AA) decided to use a resonator.
Precisely! I used an OBX generic resonator (like they all are), from ebay, and just bought fender washers (2.5" diameter), in which the hole was only a centimeter around. It was simply welded shut and polished a bit to make it look cleaner.

Like m3an said, i modeled it after AA, but a standard pipe would work. I just wanted to make it look cooler, is all.
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      10-26-2012, 11:20 AM   #27
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Off to the muffler shop we go.
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      10-26-2012, 11:45 AM   #28
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Muffler shop needs to know where to cut and weld the 90 degree joint. Pics only provide a rough idea
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      10-26-2012, 11:53 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeE92M3 View Post
I used a formula that I had seen on another thread for a different car (350z) Formula is V/WV (Velocity/Wavelength) standard.

V=1187 Ft/Sec for soundwaves (standard wavelength speed)

You have to find out what frequency (Hz) your drone is prevalent at. I measured anywhere from 160-180 hz, depending on what gear, in my car. So Lets say 165-175 Average. I will do 175 for the purpose of this solution.


1187(wavelength)/175 (hz, drone frequency) = 6.78

Take 6.78, divide it by 4 (conversion) (6.78/4) and you have 1.69 feet (14 inches)

The pipe needs to be at least 14 inches to cancel out the drone.


Hope this makes sense. It took me a few minutes to grasp it but once you measure the drone frequency with a microphone or app (I used a HZ app on my iphone), it is easy to do the math from there.
This is amazing information and hell of a job.
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      10-26-2012, 03:29 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriskm3 View Post
Muffler shop needs to know where to cut and weld the 90 degree joint. Pics only provide a rough idea
Just make the cut before the mufflers. I had the cut made roughly 6.5 inches before the actual muffler started!


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      10-26-2012, 05:26 PM   #31
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Sorry bud, but I just don't know why anyone would press bend exhaust on any motor were HP was a concern. I can't belive you guys cut out the factory mandrel SS bends in favor of press/crimp bends.

I understand if you are on a budget and can't afford mandrel bends, but you own an M3. Why not spend a few extra bucks on pre-fab bends so your exhaust dosn't need to be re-done later when you want more power?

I appreciate you wanting to mod your car, but from a fabricator's view I'm not impressed given the caliber of car you did it to.
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      10-26-2012, 06:11 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotQuiteRight View Post
Sorry bud, but I just don't know why anyone would press bend exhaust on any motor were HP was a concern. I can't belive you guys cut out the factory mandrel SS bends in favor of press/crimp bends.

I understand if you are on a budget and can't afford mandrel bends, but you own an M3. Why not spend a few extra bucks on pre-fab bends so your exhaust dosn't need to be re-done later when you want more power?

I appreciate you wanting to mod your car, but from a fabricator's view I'm not impressed given the caliber of car you did it to.
Does the stock exhaust piping use mandrel bends..in looking at the rear section the pipe looks like pancake city?
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      10-26-2012, 06:23 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yolkster View Post
Does the stock exhaust piping use mandrel bends..in looking at the rear section the pipe looks like pancake city?
The rear pipes are hydroformed. I could have done mandrel bends as notquiteright mentioned, but the fabricator, who is kin to Hendrick's Motorsports, said mandrel bends are just a fancy way of making your penis look bigger. These cars don't produce that kind of power to warrant any fancy designs, especially in the rear section. The difference in power is IMMEASURABLE. I know I drive an M3. The moral of the whole thing is that it sounds fucking bad ass and will have a sound clip next week. A couple bend presses here and there is NOT going to ruin the exhaust characteristics. If the oem looks pancake city and the front left pipe looks like some kind of shriveled penis, then I have no doubt I will be just fine.
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      10-26-2012, 09:17 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeE92M3 View Post
The rear pipes are hydroformed. I could have done mandrel bends as notquiteright mentioned, but the fabricator, who is kin to Hendrick's Motorsports, said mandrel bends are just a fancy way of making your penis look bigger. These cars don't produce that kind of power to warrant any fancy designs, especially in the rear section. The difference in power is IMMEASURABLE. I know I drive an M3. The moral of the whole thing is that it sounds fucking bad ass and will have a sound clip next week. A couple bend presses here and there is NOT going to ruin the exhaust characteristics. If the oem looks pancake city and the front left pipe looks like some kind of shriveled penis, then I have no doubt I will be just fine.
Not trying to hate... Just wondered why is all. If your happy thats all that matters period! Get that sound clip up I'm sure it sounds great. If/when you decide to SC maybe just look into some mandrel bends because they retain the same inner diameter through the entire bend unlike press that "chokes" the ID down.
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      10-27-2012, 09:15 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotQuiteRight View Post
Not trying to hate... Just wondered why is all. If your happy thats all that matters period! Get that sound clip up I'm sure it sounds great. If/when you decide to SC maybe just look into some mandrel bends because they retain the same inner diameter through the entire bend unlike press that "chokes" the ID down.
I wasn't trying to come off as a dick! It does sound awesome and I will have a clip next weekend (I work out of state everyday). I have some more stuff to bolt on before I consider a SC, but I do have plans soon. My warranty ends next month and that is when I will go crazy. Thanks for your input man!
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      10-27-2012, 12:45 PM   #36
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mod done. quick and easy. Still detect drone between 1800 to 2200 rpm , above that all has been eliminated. great fix. Driving the car above 2200 rpm simulates stock sound. Thanks for the info. Next off to xpipe or test pipes. I asked if the muffler shop can produce a test pipe eliminating front cats, but was rejected due to emmisions clause. They are not allowed to remove cats due to emmision requirement.
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      10-28-2012, 07:47 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriskm3 View Post
mod done. quick and easy. Still detect drone between 1800 to 2200 rpm , above that all has been eliminated. great fix. Driving the car above 2200 rpm simulates stock sound. Thanks for the info. Next off to xpipe or test pipes. I asked if the muffler shop can produce a test pipe eliminating front cats, but was rejected due to emmisions clause. They are not allowed to remove cats due to emmision requirement.
Good to hear! Keep driving and it will get better--that's what I've noticed. Yep, my shop told me the same thing but I am going to bring it to a performance shop to do it for me and do the tune myself. I will get an inspection before I do the test pipes so I have at least a year to play with it.
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      10-28-2012, 12:26 PM   #38
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Quote:
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I asked if the muffler shop can produce a test pipe eliminating front cats, but was rejected due to emmisions clause. They are not allowed to remove cats due to emmision requirement.

Most shops will "mock" up test pipes. They can build them 100% complete then re-install your factory cats and send you on your way. It's up to you to do the actual install because they simply can't do that last step.
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      10-28-2012, 06:29 PM   #39
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Most shops will "mock" up test pipes. They can build them 100% complete then re-install your factory cats and send you on your way. It's up to you to do the actual install because they simply can't do that last step.
True, but some shops around me won't even remove the stock cats unless an oem or direct replacement was going in. Screw emissions.
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      12-10-2012, 10:32 PM   #40
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You're setup looks really good! Did you need a chip following the secondary delete? Any videos?
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      12-10-2012, 11:04 PM   #41
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whats the length of the OBX resonators you used for the Helmholtz canister, I'm trying to build a similar setup.
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      12-10-2012, 11:08 PM   #42
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whats the length of the OBX resonators you used for the Helmholtz canister, I'm trying to build a similar setup.
I believe those bottle type resonators are 12". But you're missing the point. You need to calculate the length of pipe needed to determine what length Will cancel out the drone frequency. Just adding the resonators alone may help but you're just guessing at this point. Some people experiment with a slide made of two pipes over one another with a clamp so you can drive around, mark the location that's right and then weld Em up. Good luck.
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      12-11-2012, 07:50 AM   #43
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Hey. Had the aa xpipe installed a while back. My exhaust got much louder. Too much drone. I love laud cars. Always had good sounding exhausts but I, getting to a point where I'm considering replacing the magnsflows with akra. Drone is unbearable at times.
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      12-11-2012, 10:05 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3an View Post
I believe those bottle type resonators are 12". But you're missing the point. You need to calculate the length of pipe needed to determine what length Will cancel out the drone frequency. Just adding the resonators alone may help but you're just guessing at this point. Some people experiment with a slide made of two pipes over one another with a clamp so you can drive around, mark the location that's right and then weld Em up. Good luck.
+1, I drove around with a frequency meter for several minutes before getting a comfortable reading to correlate where the drone was coming from. I used this frequency (Hz) in the formula and worked it out from there. After 700 miles on the "new" exhaust, drone is virtually nonexistent.
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