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      12-05-2012, 02:20 AM   #1
NoM3Yet
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How does "Holiday Cash" work (and other discounts)?

I'm very sorry if this is a basic question that has been covered many times. I did search and read about a thousand threads, but seem to be getting conflicting information.

For example, if I negotiate a price of lets say $1000 over invoice. I decide to use BMWfs and get the $1,500 holiday cash. Does this mean that I'll pay $500 UNDER invoice?

Also, what about other "incentives" like USAA?

The reason I'm asking is they say "off MSRP", but I have seen in a number of threads where people are applying the holiday cash and/or USAA discount on the negotiated price not MSRP.

Again, sorry if this has been beaten to death.

Thanks!
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      12-05-2012, 03:07 AM   #2
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i was at the dealer the other day and i questioned them about this.

i was told that its $1,500 off msrp. probably a lie.

i was also told that this is money that bmw NA comps the dealership. this leads me to believe that the salesman was being untruthful, and the $1500 is after you negotiate your price. i wouldn't allow them to include the $1500 in the negotiating. come to a negotiated price, and subtract the $1500 from that.
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      12-05-2012, 08:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
i was at the dealer the other day and i questioned them about this.

i was told that its $1,500 off msrp. probably a lie.

i was also told that this is money that bmw NA comps the dealership. this leads me to believe that the salesman was being untruthful, and the $1500 is after you negotiate your price. i wouldn't allow them to include the $1500 in the negotiating. come to a negotiated price, and subtract the $1500 from that.
You are correct. It's off of whatever price you negotiate. Currently there is $1500 holiday cash, $750 loyalty cash if you're a repeat or current BMWFS customer, and $300 ultimate drive cash off your first payment.

In other words a splendid time to buy a BMW.
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      12-05-2012, 10:13 AM   #4
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Thanks for the responses.

Does anyone know about the USAA discount? Is this also off the negotiated price?

Thanks!
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      12-05-2012, 10:15 AM   #5
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You must finance w/BMW Credit to qualify for the Holiday $
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      12-05-2012, 10:33 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoM3Yet View Post
Thanks for the responses.

Does anyone know about the USAA discount? Is this also off the negotiated price?

Thanks!

In the USAA deal, USAA negotiates a price for you depending on what zip code you want to buy from. The negotiated price (and they are good ones) you'll find differs from dealer to dealer. If you go to the USAA auto buying website, put in various zip codes until you find one that's getting you the price you like and it will lead you through the process to contact the dealer. From that website price, you deduct BMW Holiday cash and whatever other Christmas $$$$ BMW is passing out. That's how mine happened.

Good luck!
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      12-05-2012, 10:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoM3Yet View Post
I'm very sorry if this is a basic question that has been covered many times. I did search and read about a thousand threads, but seem to be getting conflicting information.

For example, if I negotiate a price of lets say $1000 over invoice. I decide to use BMWfs and get the $1,500 holiday cash. Does this mean that I'll pay $500 UNDER invoice?

Also, what about other "incentives" like USAA?

The reason I'm asking is they say "off MSRP", but I have seen in a number of threads where people are applying the holiday cash and/or USAA discount on the negotiated price not MSRP.

Again, sorry if this has been beaten to death.

Thanks!
I just leased an M3 2 weeks ago. The $1500 cash was applied to the down payment directly. So if you were going to put down $2500, then you just write a check for a $1000; or still want to put down $2500, then your payment will reflect as if you had put down $4000.

Thanks
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      12-05-2012, 10:48 AM   #8
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negotiated price then subtract the incentives.

Def take advantage of the holiday cash if you can, also the BMW loyalty credit if you currently have a bmw via bmwfs

in order to get any of the incentives the car must go through BMWFS.
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      12-05-2012, 11:03 AM   #9
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All that is said above regarding the holiday cash is correct.

However, if you are leasing, some dealers are offering as an alternative that the $1,500 (+$750 loyalty) to be used as a credit towards the drive-off payment (Bank fee, DMV fee, tax on fees, 1st month payment, etc. and the cap cost reduction - if applicable).

Under such structure, the selling price is not reduced by $1,500 (+$750), but you can get the car with virtually no downpayment (or a very small one).

It's your decision to make. Do the lease math and see what fits your needs better.
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      12-05-2012, 06:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Machine View Post
All that is said above regarding the holiday cash is correct.

Under such structure, the selling price is not reduced by $1,500 (+$750), but you can get the car with virtually no downpayment (or a very small one).

It's your decision to make. Do the lease math and see what fits your needs better.
Good point but I think as a rule of thumb one should aim to reduce finance charges by reducing cap.
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      12-05-2012, 08:24 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuddman View Post
In the USAA deal, USAA negotiates a price for you depending on what zip code you want to buy from. The negotiated price (and they are good ones) you'll find differs from dealer to dealer. If you go to the USAA auto buying website, put in various zip codes until you find one that's getting you the price you like and it will lead you through the process to contact the dealer. From that website price, you deduct BMW Holiday cash and whatever other Christmas $$$$ BMW is passing out. That's how mine happened.

Good luck!
So, if I understand correctly, the USAA discount is not like holiday cash. Meaning, if I have already had the hard negotiation with the dealer and have something like $1000 or whatever over invoice, USAA benefits won't help me.

In reading the site and threads on here, I thought it was more like the "holiday cash", where I take my negotiated price and then apply some sort of "discount" to bring it even lower.

Is my understanding correct?
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      12-05-2012, 08:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvanderbilt
Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Machine View Post
All that is said above regarding the holiday cash is correct.

Under such structure, the selling price is not reduced by $1,500 (+$750), but you can get the car with virtually no downpayment (or a very small one).

It's your decision to make. Do the lease math and see what fits your needs better.
Good point but I think as a rule of thumb one should aim to reduce finance charges by reducing cap.
I would agree with that.
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      12-06-2012, 01:01 AM   #13
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MSRP 75,845

Invoice 70,305

cap cost reductions

1000 coupon from drive event

750 BMW FS customer loyalty

300 BMW app

1500 Holiday credit

total reductions = 3550

70,305 - 3550 = 66,755 Adj cap cost

This is how it was done on my deal - just my $.02
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      12-06-2012, 06:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLOSS M View Post
MSRP 75,845

Invoice 70,305

cap cost reductions

1000 coupon from drive event

750 BMW FS customer loyalty

300 BMW app

1500 Holiday credit

total reductions = 3550

70,305 - 3550 = 66,755 Adj cap cost

This is how it was done on my deal - just my $.02
You're the man! Nice deal. Wish I had done the drive event; I saw it and was like, oh, I won't be buying a car this year. Well I just ordered a 2013. Oh well.
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      12-07-2012, 08:41 AM   #15
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$1000 over invoice is way too generous!!!

$0 over invoice should do just fine.

I usually negotiate $0 over invoice, then let the dealer have $200 over just to be nice.

Go to truecar.com and build your car with options that you want, then print "dealers invoice" and put that print out on dealers desk when negotiating. If no deal, go to another dealer,- there are dealers that will be happy to sell you the car at invoice or close to it. Usually the bigger dealer corporations are easier to negotiate because they have a high turnover and make money on volume.
I got my M3 at BMW of Tenafly NJ, they are a part of a huge Penske Corp., so getting invoice deal was easy. My sales rep was Michael Lyubimov, cool guy, worked everything out with me over the phone and via e-mail, I never had to go to his showroom and sit down at his desk negotiating,- the only one time I went to BMW of Tenafly in person is to pick up my M3!
Cheers!
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      12-07-2012, 08:43 AM   #16
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oh, almost forgot:
- negotiate the price to $0 over invoice.
- then subtract holliday gift credit.
- then, after all that, calculate payment etc.,
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      12-07-2012, 09:17 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoM3Yet View Post
So, if I understand correctly, the USAA discount is not like holiday cash. Meaning, if I have already had the hard negotiation with the dealer and have something like $1000 or whatever over invoice, USAA benefits won't help me.

In reading the site and threads on here, I thought it was more like the "holiday cash", where I take my negotiated price and then apply some sort of "discount" to bring it even lower.

Is my understanding correct?
No no no.

The USAA discount ($1000 if you're using BMW FS) comes off the 'sale price of the car'. Meaning after you do your negotiating, they knock off another $1K. They list that as the 'sale price of car' on the bill of sale, then take off another $1750 (listed as "rebate") for Holiday Cash + Loyalty.
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      12-07-2012, 09:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOLFFRR View Post
negotiated price then subtract the incentives.

Def take advantage of the holiday cash if you can, also the BMW loyalty credit if you currently have a bmw via bmwfs

in order to get any of the incentives the car must go through BMWFS.

Jimmy, does this only apply to new car purchases or ANY purchase where the vehicle is financed? Assuming only on new.... thanks
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      12-07-2012, 11:09 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoM3Yet View Post
So, if I understand correctly, the USAA discount is not like holiday cash. Meaning, if I have already had the hard negotiation with the dealer and have something like $1000 or whatever over invoice, USAA benefits won't help me.

In reading the site and threads on here, I thought it was more like the "holiday cash", where I take my negotiated price and then apply some sort of "discount" to bring it even lower.

Is my understanding correct?
Nope.

1)Find the invoice price of the car you want here:http://bmwconfig.com/BmwConfig/Config.aspx
2)Start the USAA process here:http://usaa2.zag.com/main.html?referrer_id=ZUSA200078
3)If, during the the USAA process, (2) above, you see a price you like then complete the USAA process. The price offered me was below invoice.
4)After completing the USAA process you will receive a call from the dealer who is offering the selling price you saw. He will sell you the car at the price you saw in the USAA process.
5)After he agrees to sell the car at the price you saw (and if you qualify for any BMW holiday deals or whatever) then, at that point, ask for the additional holiday deals.

Phewwww!
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      12-08-2012, 08:56 AM   #20
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Hoe long does this program last with BMW? I'm parting out my 335 now and then I'm either trading it in on a cpo 2010-2011 m3 or leasing a new one......

I doubt I'll be ready to purchase till after new years
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      12-08-2012, 06:51 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimabimmer
$1000 over invoice is way too generous!!!

$0 over invoice should do just fine.

I usually negotiate $0 over invoice, then let the dealer have $200 over just to be nice.

Go to truecar.com and build your car with options that you want, then print "dealers invoice" and put that print out on dealers desk when negotiating. If no deal, go to another dealer,- there are dealers that will be happy to sell you the car at invoice or close to it. Usually the bigger dealer corporations are easier to negotiate because they have a high turnover and make money on volume.
I got my M3 at BMW of Tenafly NJ, they are a part of a huge Penske Corp., so getting invoice deal was easy. My sales rep was Michael Lyubimov, cool guy, worked everything out with me over the phone and via e-mail, I never had to go to his showroom and sit down at his desk negotiating,- the only one time I went to BMW of Tenafly in person is to pick up my M3!
Cheers!
I got mine at tenafly also.. Good spot!
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      12-08-2012, 07:28 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobS View Post
Hoe long does this program last with BMW? I'm parting out my 335 now and then I'm either trading it in on a cpo 2010-2011 m3 or leasing a new one......

I doubt I'll be ready to purchase till after new years
The current deal is till dec 31. You never know what Jan 1 will give you, could be better, could be worse. I'm guessing worse.

If you're going the lease route, you can put in the order now (or end of the month), and lock in the rates. You won't have to start paying until you get your car... you'll just have to put a deposit down... like $1000 or something. If the rates are better in January, you get those rates instead.
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