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      12-03-2012, 09:20 AM   #23
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i never understood why people torque the studs, seeing as they go right though the hub and are visible on the other side if you have a good viewing angle.

so you aren't really torquing the stud to anything...
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      12-03-2012, 09:46 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I just got the Bimmerworld studs the instructions state that I need to tighten the studs down to 50-80ft lbs (the studs, not the lug nuts) and to not use a hex key but jam 2 nuts together.. Wonder what makes these different?
I just ordered the BW Premium Race Studs. I was wondering if you were actually able to torque down those guys between 50-80 ft lbs.

I have heard of some not even being able to get close to it.

I also purchased the two locking nuts they sell for a couple bucks so I don't end up shearing the lug nuts.

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Originally Posted by kaiv View Post
I don't bother with aftermarket wheel studs anymore. They're a bit of a PITA imho.

I swap wheels all the time and just use a lug guide. I recently replaced all my lugs with new OE and I'm glad I didn't have to remove and reinstall 20 studs
I use OE Lug Nuts on the E90 M3 and studs on the E46 M3...becauseracecar..........not!
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      12-03-2012, 10:53 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flipm3 View Post
I just ordered the BW Premium Race Studs. I was wondering if you were actually able to torque down those guys between 50-8 ft lbs.

I have heard of some not even being able to get close to it.
BW is on crack. Ain't no way you can get to 80ft/lbs and then the hex holes are something like 5.5mm. So I just tried my best. My wheel hasn't fallen off yet.
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      12-03-2012, 11:31 AM   #26
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I just snugged mine...probably about 15ft lbs. The loctite is doing the work...hopefully.
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      12-03-2012, 12:43 PM   #27
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I got my BW race bulletnose studs to 60 ft lb with the 2 nut method. They haven't been on that long, but so far so good (about 6-8 wheel swaps so far on them and 1-2k miles).
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      12-03-2012, 12:53 PM   #28
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But do you want them "tight"? It all depends on the construction and what the "base" is. The Apex studs just have a little bubble...you don't want to drag that into your hub by over tightening. Not sure about BW's.
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      12-03-2012, 01:02 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car54 View Post
I just snugged mine...probably about 15ft lbs. The loctite is doing the work...hopefully.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Car54 View Post
But do you want them "tight"? It all depends on the construction and what the "base" is. The Apex studs just have a little bubble...you don't want to drag that into your hub by over tightening. Not sure about BW's.
You're right on track. Studs should only be snug, about 14ft-lbs, using blue loctite. Lug Nuts are then torqued to 88ft-lbs.

For those seeing competitive use, marking is a good idea.
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      12-03-2012, 01:23 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car54 View Post
But do you want them "tight"? It all depends on the construction and what the "base" is. The Apex studs just have a little bubble...you don't want to drag that into your hub by over tightening. Not sure about BW's.
Same thing with the BWs...which is why I don't get it. 80ft/lbs? Have fun getting those studs out! I didn't even get close and I have a gut feeling that these will be a total PIA.
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      12-03-2012, 01:29 PM   #31
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I have Turner Motorsports 75mm wheel studs and lug nuts. I torqued to 16ft-lbs with locktite (per instructions) and none have come loose so far. Lug nuts are torqued to 90ft-lbs.
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      12-03-2012, 01:29 PM   #32
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Hmm so we have one source saying "14 ft/lb and blue loctite" and another saying "50-80 ft/lb and red loctite" and both sources are credible. I already complied with option #2 (from the mfg of my studs, BW), but surely there is a design difference justifying the discrepancy.
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      12-03-2012, 02:17 PM   #33
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Just to pile on...but when you use loctite...you've just lubed the thread so your 50 ft lbs is much higher without the dry friction surfaces. If you go too far, you put too many threads on the back side (open area) of your hub. Now less threads are grabbing the hub.

I went about 1/4 turn once they seated.
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      12-03-2012, 02:23 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porschefile View Post
Hmm so we have one source saying "14 ft/lb and blue loctite" and another saying "50-80 ft/lb and red loctite" and both sources are credible. I already complied with option #2 (from the mfg of my studs, BW), but surely there is a design difference justifying the discrepancy.
Red Loctite will work also, it'll just be a PITA to remove.
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      12-03-2012, 02:48 PM   #35
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Wow! This thread has found new life!

Quote:
Originally Posted by passing View Post
i never understood why people torque the studs, seeing as they go right though the hub and are visible on the other side if you have a good viewing angle.

so you aren't really torquing the stud to anything...
I understand your reasoning if the stud is threaded along its entire shaft, but the Turner studs have a short course of threads on the wheel hub end, then a solid/non-threaded section, and then the long course of threads on the lugnut end. So as you torque them down to 16 ft-lbs, you're actually bottoming them out against the hub. You achieve resistance, and it would likely be quite difficult to get them much beyond 30 ft-lbs or so, as some stated above.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tom @ eas View Post
Red Loctite will work also, it'll just be a PITA to remove.
The Turner kit actually ships with Red Loctite.
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Last edited by paradocs98; 12-03-2012 at 02:54 PM.
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      12-03-2012, 03:05 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98 View Post
Wow! This thread has found new life!


I understand your reasoning if the stud is threaded along its entire shaft, but the Turner studs have a short course of threads on the wheel hub end, then a solid/non-threaded section, and then the long course of threads on the lugnut end. So as you torque them down to 16 ft-lbs, you're actually bottoming them out against the hub. You achieve resistance, and it would likely be quite difficult to get them much beyond 30 ft-lbs or so, as some stated above.
haha no pun intended

anyways, i see your reasoning, but on the last set i owned, there was little to no resistance. i just made sure that they were each the same distance from the hub.
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      12-03-2012, 04:47 PM   #37
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I think BW is the only one that is different. I've usually seen snugged with red loctite.
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      12-17-2012, 07:56 PM   #38
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just changing out my trashed set of advans today and noticed 3 loose studs on one rear wheel. also had a screw in that tire. good things its garbage anyways.
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      12-17-2012, 09:25 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriszeh View Post
just changing out my trashed set of advans today and noticed 3 loose studs on one rear wheel. also had a screw in that tire. good things its garbage anyways.
Glad you were in the process of switching that tire out anyway.
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      12-17-2012, 10:38 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98 View Post
Glad you were in the process of switching that tire out anyway.
yeah no kidding. it must have happened on my street as the screw wasnt pushed all the way in. still sticking out about 1/2 inch from the surface. also didnt penetrate all the way thru the tire just in the center rib. they are recycled now anyways. 4 new ad08s and and new set of ec7s with nt01s. yeah buddy.
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      12-18-2012, 11:43 AM   #41
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50-80 ft/lbs is a freaking huge range
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      12-18-2012, 12:12 PM   #42
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couldnt find my loctite so just went and got some more red and reset those 3 and checked the rest.
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