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      11-12-2012, 01:11 AM   #1
Nicname
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Battery Stabilizer for Velos Tuning

I first installed the tune when my car had 6k miles on it so the battery was new and I knew it could handle being on for 2 hrs while reading the codes and about an hr installing the new codes. Now I got an x pipe, and will have to install a new tune. I'm wondering if now I'll need a battery stabilizer to do the tuning process. My car has almost 10k miles so idk if the battery itself can handle the tuning process this time around.
Basically, can I do this tuning without a battery stabilizer?
If I do need one, any brands/recommendations?
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      11-12-2012, 03:50 PM   #2
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I switch my aa tune back and forth all the time on its battery no problem. It should be a short version of the tune. Confirm this with velos
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      11-13-2012, 10:57 AM   #3
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You should be just fine without a stabilizer.
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      11-13-2012, 11:54 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicname View Post
I first installed the tune when my car had 6k miles on it so the battery was new and I knew it could handle being on for 2 hrs while reading the codes and about an hr installing the new codes. Now I got an x pipe, and will have to install a new tune. I'm wondering if now I'll need a battery stabilizer to do the tuning process. My car has almost 10k miles so idk if the battery itself can handle the tuning process this time around.
Basically, can I do this tuning without a battery stabilizer?
If I do need one, any brands/recommendations?
2012 battery should be just fine. Not sure how long flashing takes on the MySimon units but a write is ~5min uwing the ESS E-Flash suite.

Just turn off all battery loads while flashing (headlights, radio, A/C, etc.) and all should be well. Otherwise, a 2AMP battery charger during the flashing process is never a bad idea.
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      11-13-2012, 01:56 PM   #5
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2-4 amp charger is a good idea. If it dies during the writing process it may require you to send the ecu out for programming.

Last edited by Andrew@ActiveAutowerke; 11-13-2012 at 05:24 PM.
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      11-13-2012, 02:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew@ActiveAutowerke View Post
2-4 amp charger is a good idea. If it dies during the writing process it may require you to send the ecu out for programming.
Andrew is 100% correct except you would NOT have to send the ECU out to us, we would be able to assist you remotely (obviously you do not want to get to this point)

Thanks Andrew, from the team at Velos.
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      11-17-2012, 04:53 PM   #7
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Could someone explain how to connect the charger to the battery on a car with start/stop. There's a large cover over the +terminal. There are a few flip up caps over bolts. Could you use one of these for the +terminal on the charger?

.
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      11-18-2012, 05:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus
Could someone explain how to connect the charger to the battery on a car with start/stop. There's a large cover over the +terminal. There are a few flip up caps over bolts. Could you use one of these for the +terminal on the charger?

.
In the engine bay, there is a red cover on the passenger side. Remove the cover and connect the charger to the positive. Also on the edge of the passenger side their is a hex shaped knob... Put the negative there.
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      11-19-2012, 10:43 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C|3R1C View Post
In the engine bay, there is a red cover on the passenger side. Remove the cover and connect the charger to the positive. Also on the edge of the passenger side their is a hex shaped knob... Put the negative there.
^This
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      11-19-2012, 09:57 PM   #10
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Not sure why its taking so long. Flashing the new operating software (240E) takes 5 minutes and flashing the tune takes 5 minutes. So ten minutes and you have new software and tune, no charger required.

Edit: nvm, maybe they are using a different tool. You can connect a charger to the terminal under the hood (red tab) and ground to any unpainted metal - or use the terminals in the truck on the battery.

You could also connect another (started) car using jumper cables if a charger is not handy.
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