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      11-11-2012, 10:32 PM   #1
Sean05
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REAR rotor and pads replacements. ????

So I have never replaced a rotor on our cars and curious how easy it is to replace the rotor and pads.. ive done a lot on Honda, Toyota, and other cars but not on BMW.. is there something that i need to look out for? or tools i need?

Thanks.
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      11-12-2012, 04:18 AM   #2
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Should be very straightforward. There's a DIY on the forum written by Lucid.

The only trouble I've run into is that sometimes the rear rotor could be seized onto the hub... so some type of bar would really help. In the worst case, use a hammer and hit the areas between the wheel studs. Works very well to remove seized rotors.
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      11-12-2012, 05:34 AM   #3
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^This...the worst part will be getting the rotor off if it's seized to the hub, and if this is your 1st rear rotor change then it's most likely seized. However, Richard is correct, pull out the "big" hammer

Only other thing to remember is the rear parking brake drum is integral to the rear rotor (release the parking brake).
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      11-12-2012, 08:16 AM   #4
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Thanks for the heads up... Ill go find myself a Big hammer...

Thanks Again.
Sean
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      11-12-2012, 10:16 AM   #5
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Not too much to be afraid of with this job. Make sure you crack open the master cylinder cap for when you push the pistons back into the calipers for the new pads.

Tools:
Impact or long ratchet to get lugs off
screwdriver for anti rattle clip and caps to hex bolts
7mm hex socket and 3/8 ratchet
don't forget the set screw for the rotor (be careful, they strip easily - I may recommend an impact driver to get it off)
brake spreader, c-clamp, large mouth adjustable pliers (to push piston back in)

That's about it. Again, pretty straightforward, and yes, it will be similar to other cars you have done.....maybe easier.

Last edited by TC Kline Racing; 11-12-2012 at 11:26 AM.
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      11-12-2012, 10:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TC Kline Racing View Post
Not too much to be afraid of with this job. Make sure you crap open the master cylinder cap for when you push the pistons back into the calipers for the new pads.

Tools:
Impact or long ratchet to get lugs off
screwdriver for anti rattle clip and caps to hex bolts
7mm hex socket and 3/8 ratchet
don't forget the set screw for the rotor (be careful, they strip easily - I may recommend an impact driver to get it off)
brake spreader, c-clamp, large mouth adjustable pliers (to push piston back in)

That's about it. Again, pretty straightforward, and yes, it will be similar to other cars you have done.....maybe easier.

Thanks. sounds like the same process to any old car or even recent cars.. Thanks... guys..
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      11-12-2012, 04:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Not too much to be afraid of with this job. Make sure you crack open the master cylinder cap for when you push the pistons back into the calipers for the new pads.
Call me ignorant, but I've been changing the pads without opening the cap and have not run into any issues. Why is this necessary or a good idea?
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      11-12-2012, 04:54 PM   #8
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What are you using for rotors....oem?
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      11-12-2012, 05:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Call me ignorant, but I've been changing the pads without opening the cap and have not run into any issues. Why is this necessary or a good idea?

I guess its not imperative, just a good idea to open it and check the fluid while you're doing it. Some people think it makes it easier to push pistons back in because it relieves the pressure.
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      11-12-2012, 07:45 PM   #10
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What are you using for rotors....oem?
its OEM got deal off this forum... new for $240 oh yes thats a set...

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      11-12-2012, 08:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Call me ignorant, but I've been changing the pads without opening the cap and have not run into any issues. Why is this necessary or a good idea?
If for some reason you refilled the resevior when the pads were worn/low it would overflow. Otherwise it should be fine.

Sean, I use a 2x4 and whack the rotor to pop it loose. If it's REALLY stuck, sometimes it's possible to wedge the end of a breaker bar between the caliper ear and the rotor and pry. Just make sure the end of the breaker bar clears the fender lip or it will dent the fender from the inside when the rotor lets loose.
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      11-12-2012, 10:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
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its OEM got deal off this forum... new for $240 oh yes thats a set...

Nice!

Looked around a little bit and it seems that the oem rotors through turner would be cheaper than the stoptech, centric blank/slotted variety. Or maybe I'm looking in the wrong places.
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      11-13-2012, 01:52 PM   #13
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A good couple of whacks with a rubber mallet in strategic locations seems to do the trick for me when the rotors are seized to the hubs.
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