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      10-16-2012, 08:43 PM   #1
JD3
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Plasti-dip tips

Just a few tips since this is popular. I did my wheels, it's very easy stuff to work with and pretty worry free, but there are some things to note that I didn't see in other write ups.

1). Patience - if you can take your time your results will be infinitely better.
2). Watch your hands and cans - it's easy to nick the inside in particular because it's just a tight spot. If you do it though, just hit it a few times and move on. You'll never notice it on the inside.
3). Keep the can upright - particularly important on the face, if you don't you can get sputtering and spots where it comes out in larger drops. Depending on which layer you're on, it can be a non-issue, but its best to just avoid it.
4). Don't try to run the cans dry - this is cheap enough as is, don't try to use every ounce in the can. It will start to sputter as it gets empty causing the problem in 3.
5). Clean the nozzle - If you leave the cans for a period of time they can get gummed up. When that happens you will get the sputtering alluded to above. You can just peel it off.
6). Test spray - just spray a newspaper or something to make sure it's even.
7). Using cards to block tires - this was a good idea I saw but I didn't do it. This stuff is really easy to peel off the tires. Still, I would probably suggest it if you have a spare deck.
8). Good lighting - this helps you know when the wheels are completely dry and ready for another coat plus it shows any silver shining through and where you have more or less of a coating.
9). Spray the spokes from behind - particularly if the spokes are close, like on the forged M3 19's, it's difficult to get the spray in between without saturating the front of the wheel. I'd suggest working with the wheel on it's tire and spraying in between the spokes from the back.
10). Some places are difficult to get to, behind the spokes or between the wheel and tire for example. I suggest hitting these parts first because it may take a little more spraying to get in there. If you mess up and over spray and get a run it's easy to correct at the beginning...not so much at the end.

If you haven't done this let me tell you, its very easy, just don't rush. Just treat it like removable spray paint!
Feel free to message me with any questions. Happy dipping!

Last edited by JD3; 10-22-2012 at 01:46 PM.
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      10-17-2012, 11:17 PM   #2
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Just did mine too. Great product. I did leave the lug nuts in after I did the first side. If you don't it will peel when you torque down the lugs. Could be cuz I was limited on drying time. Patience and time helps.
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      10-18-2012, 04:11 PM   #3
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Here's my personal tip: Don't use it.
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      10-18-2012, 06:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3PO View Post
Here's my personal tip: Don't use it.
Thanks for your input. Why do you say that? It comes right off, doesn't hurt anything.
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      10-18-2012, 07:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD3 View Post
Thanks for your input. Why do you say that? It comes right off, doesn't hurt anything.
It's just my opinion but I think it looks bad/cheap. It doesn't belong on an M3 IMO.


edit: I do appreciate you taking the time to put these tips together for people who do choose to use it.
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      10-18-2012, 07:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3PO View Post
It's just my opinion but I think it looks bad/cheap. It doesn't belong on an M3 IMO.


edit: I do appreciate you taking the time to put these tips together for people who do choose to use it.
Yeah, there are just a few things to make it easier for people but I think you're right in certain applications. I wouldn't go crazy with the stuff. On wheels though, I think it looks pretty cool if you take your time and do it right. It doesn't look as good as powdercoating but frankly 99% of people out there won't know the difference. Add in the benefits of being removable and costing about $25 and you can't go wrong if you're going for matte black look.
Crappy phone pic below, lol. Don't konw how to make it bigger.
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      10-18-2012, 07:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD3 View Post
Yeah, there are just a few things to make it easier for people but I think you're right in certain applications. I wouldn't go crazy with the stuff. On wheels though, I think it looks pretty cool if you take your time and do it right. It doesn't look as good as powdercoating but frankly 99% of people out there won't know the difference. Add in the benefits of being removable and costing about $25 and you can't go wrong if you're going for matte black look.
Crappy phone pic below, lol. Don't konw how to make it bigger.
lol, that is a tiny pic.

I just don't like matte black stockers, powder coated or otherwise. I think it screams "cheap". But whatever floats your boat, it's your car!
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      10-18-2012, 08:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3PO View Post
lol, that is a tiny pic.

I just don't like matte black stockers, powder coated or otherwise. I think it screams "cheap". But whatever floats your boat, it's your car!
Well, I'm hoping that doing this will satiate my desire for some black Forgelines....at least until next summer!
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      10-19-2012, 09:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3PO View Post
lol, that is a tiny pic.

I just don't like matte black stockers, powder coated or otherwise. I think it screams "cheap". But whatever floats your boat, it's your car!
So, then you also think the OEM flat 359's look cheap?

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      10-19-2012, 11:30 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbennettksu View Post
So, then you also think the OEM flat 359's look cheap?

Those are satin and no, I don't. I have satin black CH-Rs on my M3.

Plastidip is matte and often has a bumpy finish kinda like truck bed liner. Plus, when I see 220Ms or 219Ms that are flat black, I know someone cheaped out. When I see OEM GTS, I know they didn't.
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      10-19-2012, 01:08 PM   #11
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^ well, we'll just have to agree to disagree. My wheels are not smooth as glass, but they don't look like spray on bedliner. They're like 2000 grit sandpaper, you have to get on your hands and knees to see anything other than matte black.
That's sort of why I made this post, so that people could do the job with the best results possible.
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      10-22-2012, 01:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TanDaMan View Post
Just did mine too. Great product. I did leave the lug nuts in after I did the first side. If you don't it will peel when you torque down the lugs. Could be cuz I was limited on drying time. Patience and time helps.

Good point, this can be an issue particularly on the rear wheels because the sockets are so deep. If you don't have a long socket head you'll have to be very careful. Of course, if you do nick it you can just spray a little bit of dip onto a q-tip or sponge and touch it up.
(I'd suggest a true 17mm socket, not 11/16 like most places will sell you)
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      10-25-2012, 12:10 PM   #13
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Plastidip is the worst. Dont buy and dont try it.

If you want to make a cute halloween costume then give it a try, but don't use it on the m3.

I still have remnants of it from the time i tried plastidippin my window trim.
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      10-25-2012, 08:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abitrandom View Post
Plastidip is the worst. Dont buy and dont try it.

If you want to make a cute halloween costume then give it a try, but don't use it on the m3.

I still have remnants of it from the time i tried plastidippin my window trim.

Thanks for your contribution. Hopefully using these tips will help people avoid the errors you apparently made. Another tip, if you're having trouble removing it in some spots, i know this sounds crazy, but tape off the area and spray more dip on it. It adheres to itself so once you have a substantial amount it should peel right off from what i understand. Personally ive not had any trouble removing the stuff.
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      10-25-2012, 09:17 PM   #15
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Yup, you have a point. Fellas learn from my mistakes!! You buy a 5 dollar can to mod your car, you end up with a cheap and cheesy result.

At least don't try the window trim.
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      10-25-2012, 09:28 PM   #16
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I was gonna try window trim this weekend, lol. Now you've got me nervous!
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