All Castrol SRF the same?

[M3PO]

I was shopping for SRF and I have seen some good deals for the stuff that comes in the metal cans. Like this:



This may sound like a dumb question but is there any difference between that and this:



I wanna get the right stuff. Thanks!

[dicker]

Same stuff, just older packaging. My most recent purchase came in a bottle that looked like the one Castrol TWS comes in.

[M3PO]

Originally Posted by dicker

Same stuff, just older packaging. My most recent purchase came in a bottle that looked like the one Castrol TWS comes in.

Thank you sir! I appreciate it! Also, thanks for the pads!

[C|3R1C]

I got the same packaging as dicker. I bought mine from amazon.

[dicker]

No problem! Also I reccomend you go with Project Mu G-Four fluid or Motul 600/660 instead of the SRF.

It's a lot cheaper and easier to work with.

[aus]

Originally Posted by dicker

No problem! Also I reccomend you go with Project Mu G-Four fluid or Motul 600/660 instead of the SRF.

It's a lot cheaper and easier to work with.

You could not be more wrong...

.

[dicker]

Originally Posted by aus

You could not be more wrong...

.

Well, if you could give me some evidence to prove me wrong that would be great.

I've been tracking for a while and have used SRF multiple times, so I do have a little bit of experience.

[bigjae1976]

Motul 600 is a pretty good option. The only bad part is once it boil it you have to bleed it. SRF will come back and last a lot longer. Other than that, I've never noticed a difference.

From a cost standpoint, I'd go with Motul 600 if you do your own bleeding and SRF if you pay someone. I wanna say that I get twice the life out of SRF...so you come out even on the cost of the fluid but you save on paying someone to bleed your brakes.

Originally Posted by dicker

Same stuff, just older packaging. My most recent purchase came in a bottle that looked like the one Castrol TWS comes in.

Yes, keep it away from your oil...don't wanna make a mistake.

[M3PO]

I want something that I can run a little longer (less hygroscopic than other racing fluids) and that will come back from a boil. From what I have read, SRF is the way to go.

[Groundpilot]

SRF is the way to go. Have used it for 3 seasons and never had to bleed brakes. Just change it once a year.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by M3PO

I want something that I can run a little longer (less hygroscopic than other racing fluids) and that will come back from a boil. From what I have read, SRF is the way to go.

I'm not sure if its less hygroscopic but will come back. I think SRF is the way to go for you.

[M3PO]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

I'm not sure if its less hygroscopic but will come back. I think SRF is the way to go for you.

I read in another thread that it was less hygroscopic than other racing fluids (but still more so than the OEM stuff). I don't know if there is any truth to that though...

[Z K]

I am running Project Mu G-four brake fluid. Works good. Higher dry and wet boiling points than SRF and less moisture absorption for street driven cars.

Motul 600 is good for the budget but less heat tolerance than the Project Mu or SRF and it needs more frequent flushing.

[aus]

Originally Posted by dicker

Well, if you could give me some evidence to prove me wrong that would be great.

I've been tracking for a while and have used SRF multiple times, so I do have a little bit of experience.

Sorry. Didn't have time to post earlier.

This thread sums it up nicely.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&highlight=srf

Basically, you don't need to change the fluid out nearly as much as Motul. It doesn't absorb as much moisture as other fluids so it's boiling point stays high. And you can mix it with regular brake fluids.

.

[aus]

Originally Posted by Z K

I am running Project Mu G-four brake fluid. Works good. Higher dry and wet boiling points than SRF and less moisture absorption for street driven cars.

Motul 600 is good for the budget but less heat tolerance than the Project Mu or SRF and it needs more frequent flushing.

Looks like Mu dry is 335 and wet is 221. http://project-mu.co.jp/en/products/other_fluid.html
Castrol SRF dry is 310 and wet is 270. http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...s/SRF_B768.pdf


It's the wet boiling point that really matters since that's what will affect your pedal feel. Mu is a little cheaper.

It's too bad LeMans_Blue isn't here anymore. He'd give a NICE summary about brake fluid.

.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by M3PO

I read in another thread that it was less hygroscopic than other racing fluids (but still more so than the OEM stuff). I don't know if there is any truth to that though...

Not sure...I remember reading that its just as hygroscopic but the wet boiling point is better. Who cares...it just works!

[Groundpilot]

Originally Posted by aus

Sorry. Didn't have time to post earlier.

This thread sums it up nicely.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&highlight=srf

Basically, you don't need to change the fluid out nearly as much as Motul. It doesn't absorb as much moisture as other fluids so it's boiling point stays high. And you can mix it with regular brake fluids.

.

Are you talking about SRF fluid? If yes, its absolutely NOT TO BE MIXED with any other type of fluid.

[bigjae1976]

Why? Never heard that. I know DOT5 is incompatible. But you can mix DOT 3 and 4. I believe Castrol is DOT4. So how does it work when you initially bleed the SRF into the brake system that has non-SRF fluid? Some of the old fluid will mix.

[aus]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Why? Never heard that. I know DOT5 is incompatible. But you can mix DOT 3 and 4. I believe Castrol is DOT4. So how does it work when you initially bleed the SRF into the brake system that has non-SRF fluid? Some of the old fluid will mix.

That's what I've read and it's also stated in that thread.

.

[bigjae1976]

You can top off with any Dot 3 or 4. Just reduces the benefit of using SRF. True, I top off with SRF unless it forces me to open a $75 bottle just to use a wee little bit. That's when I just use some Motul600 or regular ATE.

[ayao]

Originally Posted by M3PO

I want something that I can run a little longer (less hygroscopic than other racing fluids) and that will come back from a boil. From what I have read, SRF is the way to go.

Just some food for thought:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=10494908

[aus]

AP was on here a long time ago saying their fluid recovers better than SRF once boiled.
Sounds like Berk was cooking the brakes each time out.

I would think most weekend track event drivers won't be cooking the fluid each session, or any session for that matter. I just like the flush it once and forget about it for a year concept.