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      10-15-2012, 06:56 PM   #23
snohman82
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it is a low premium, if he was in los angeles. specific zip codes (even though apparently they aren't supposed to do this anymore) cost significantly more with all other factors constant.

i am more curious as to see what levels of liability everyone has - people say full coverage, but that doesnt tell me what range (ie. $100k/$300k for liability, etc.).

I am paying nearly $1,700 per year for $100k/$300k liability, $50k property, and $30k/$60k for uninsured. big deductible at $1,000 as well just because i would pay up to $2k to avoid going through insurance which would surely go up. I am also using AAA (which is more pricey) but gets me breaks on other stuff. Zero accidents or tickets on record. 30 years of age. its pricey, i know, but when i shopped around, for some reason i was getting quoted over $2k from the likes of geico, etc. frustrating...west los angeles zip code.
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      10-15-2012, 07:26 PM   #24
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A little off topic, but for those carrying $500+ deductibles for comprehensive, find out what it would cost in premium to drop that deductible to $100. It is probably less than you think, and it covers a lot of claims. For example - rock to the windshield. I carry $500 for collision but $100 for comp, so my new windshield was only $100 out of pocket.

The big difference for premium comes on collision deductible.
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      10-15-2012, 09:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimf15e View Post
Umm... you think $1100 is "such a low premium"?? Time for you to start shopping around some more. That's relatively steep for your conditions if you're carrying normal liability coverage.
For a major US cities, I do.... $1100 a year, $550.00 every six months.
I did shop around, no one can touch State Farm.. Plus the accident forgiveness is another bonus, I wouldn't get that with anyone else.
Thanks for your wisdom jimf15e, but I think I'll stick with my way of doing things.
BTW, that is pretty damn low for a $70,000 car.

My Coverage:

250,000/500,000 - Liability (Body)
100,000 - Liability (Property)
5,000 (PIP)
50,000/100,000 (Underinsured/uninsured)
$500 Comp/Collision

Last edited by DominionXX; 10-15-2012 at 10:01 PM.
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      10-15-2012, 09:40 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glockperfect View Post
A little off topic, but for those carrying $500+ deductibles for comprehensive, find out what it would cost in premium to drop that deductible to $100. It is probably less than you think, and it covers a lot of claims. For example - rock to the windshield. I carry $500 for collision but $100 for comp, so my new windshield was only $100 out of pocket.

The big difference for premium comes on collision deductible.

coverage varies state to state; example: in FL as long as you have comp there is no glass deductible/
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      10-15-2012, 10:33 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snohman82 View Post
i am more curious as to see what levels of liability everyone has - people say full coverage, but that doesnt tell me what range (ie. $100k/$300k for liability, etc.).

I am paying nearly $1,700 per year for $100k/$300k liability, $50k property, and $30k/$60k for uninsured. big deductible at $1,000 as well just because i would pay up to $2k to avoid going through insurance which would surely go up. I am also using AAA (which is more pricey) but gets me breaks on other stuff. Zero accidents or tickets on record. 30 years of age. its pricey, i know, but when i shopped around, for some reason i was getting quoted over $2k from the likes of geico, etc. frustrating...west los angeles zip code.

Exactly. Zip code, driving record and all of that is obviously important, but w/o knowing deductibles and policy limits these numbers are meaningless.

If you are not a lawyer or had not been sued before in a major auto wreck, you wouldn't know that it doesn't take much of a wreck with a decent wage earner injured on the other side with some wage loss and medicals to have your policy limits exhausted and have the P.I. attorney coming after all of your other assets beyond your policy limits.

If you save $500 per year for ten years on lower limits, more power to you. However, that extra $5k in ten years more than pays for itself with higher limits if you get in a wreck and it is even debatable that you were wholly or partially at fault. For $5k more over 10 years I would think that peace of mind alone is worth the price of admission.

Get the highest auto policy limits you can afford, and if you have other assets to protect as well buy an umbrella policy for $1 or $2 million in addition to your auto policy.

YMMV.
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      10-16-2012, 12:49 AM   #28
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$5200 a year -(This is for 500K/1Mil Liability, $500 deductible). I usually pay it bi-anually.

It's for full coverage on the M3, 7 series, and 550 MSport.

2 points on my record doesn't help.. One of which was a DMV mistake..

I think I recently got a 10% policy discount by getting renters insurance through them too.
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      10-16-2012, 01:25 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Plutonium View Post
Statefarm - with all mods added and photographed by them, car got valued @$120K and I pay $900 a year. I have all my other cars insured by them, as well as my house, life, and disability insurance.

Age 40.
No tickets.
No accidents.
And very good looking.
Just curious--there was a thread on here recently in which a member said either his auto rates went up or he was dropped from his insurance co because of an aftermarket exhaust. There might have been more to the story, but don't your mods, especially your ESS kit, raise a flag to your insurance carrier that you're a "spirited" driver? (I'm sure you're safe and responsible on the road, but insurance companies look for any reason to increase premiums.)

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+1; after reading some of these threads I wonder how people made it this far in life w/ out help.. And able to afford a very nice car.
Unfortunately, most physicians basically put their lives on hold for 10 years or so after college while they go through med school and residency training. Most also complete schooling and training in urban areas where there is no need for a car. So, at 31yo, the OP is probably like a 21yo getting a car for the first time and having to deal with auto insurance for the first time.
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      10-16-2012, 04:12 AM   #30
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USAA in Germany.

$6000ish premium per year.

2 cars, 2 drivers, renters insurance, $250 deductible

Fucking retarded. Need to change to Atlantic Trust or Mariscon ASAP.
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      10-17-2012, 01:42 AM   #31
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what car insurance do you have?

If you want a good rate, approach at least 3-4 car insurance companies for rates, enquire about discounts to see which ones youíre eligible for, compare them and then make a decision. Iíve been with The Hartford for 9 years now and have had no complaints so far.
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      10-17-2012, 07:17 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98 View Post
Just curious--there was a thread on here recently in which a member said either his auto rates went up or he was dropped from his insurance co because of an aftermarket exhaust. There might have been more to the story, but don't your mods, especially your ESS kit, raise a flag to your insurance carrier that you're a "spirited" driver? (I'm sure you're safe and responsible on the road, but insurance companies look for any reason to increase premiums.)


Unfortunately, most physicians basically put their lives on hold for 10 years or so after college while they go through med school and residency training. Most also complete schooling and training in urban areas where there is no need for a car. So, at 31yo, the OP is probably like a 21yo getting a car for the first time and having to deal with auto insurance for the first time.
Yup! I've been driving a 96 acura for half my life! 400,000KM on it so far! I just wanted to see the range ppl where paying. My insurance on my current car is only about 20$/month right now.....
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      10-17-2012, 07:50 PM   #33
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I am surprised so many people finance their insurance. (ie pay per month)
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      10-17-2012, 09:15 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by tjsabec View Post
I am surprised so many people finance their insurance. (ie pay per month)
Why not? With some companies now days, like USAA, there is no savings in paying for it all up front. I might as well pay monthly and get what small amount of interest on the money I can.
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      10-18-2012, 09:06 AM   #35
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I can't explain this but I have an 2002 base Acura RSX (not the -S model) and our insurance company, Encompass, classifies it as a high performance vehicle. It's a damn Civic. I pay around $900/year for that one and expected to get raped when I bought the M3 last month.

Nope, M3, full coverage, $1k deductible, $550/year. The ins agent ran it three times to make sure.

I was going to raise holy hell when I found out not long ago that the RSX was so expensive to insure but we're going to get rid of it and since the rate on the M3 is so good I'm just going to keep my mouth shut.
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      10-18-2012, 02:59 PM   #36
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If your in va or nc i work for allstate i have no problem taking a look at auto,home, renters. It never hurts to look I have a 08 335i and a 09 m3 and found that it was the best value for my money. PM if you want a quote.
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      10-18-2012, 03:39 PM   #37
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I use Amica. Male, 26, married, clean record, living in Austin, 2 cars on the policy, and my 2011 E92 costs $72/month. Amica is an AMAZING carrier. JD Power has rated them as highest in customer satisfaction for I believe 12 years running (behind only USAA and one other carrier, neither of which is available to the public), and I can confirm that based on experience. They once chased a fraudulent at-fault party for 7 MONTHS trying to recover my deductible (which was greater than the amount THEY paid on the claim) and got it back long after I had considered it lost. They also have no brokers or resellers, so when you call them you're speaking to someone who actually works for the company. They also quoted me the lowest rate when I shopped around, and I was worried that they might undercut everyone just to deliver bad service when you needed them, but that hasn't been the case at all.

Plus, they're one of the few providers whose policy wording still only excludes timed or competitive track events, so non-timed, non-competitive HPDEs are still good.
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Last edited by jphughan; 10-22-2012 at 09:53 AM.
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      10-18-2012, 04:24 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Plutonium View Post
It gets deducted automatically from my account each month... what's the difference?
Depending on the company paying in full could save you a good amount of money depending on the cost of the policy i have seen full pay saving over 100 dollars. Having a auto withdraw can give you a discount as well. Paying each month by check or calling it in is the most expensive way to do it.
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