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      08-28-2012, 09:21 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Chriskm3 View Post
U can use chemical guys v36 and v38 and that cuts imperfections ad finishes beautfly. V34 cuts deep scratches and finishes nicely as well. Followed by a sealant and wax ur done.

Can you use V34 only? then Do a wax/seal? Or would you do the two step?
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      08-29-2012, 08:31 AM   #24
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Great Thanks for the help. I didnt mean the 105/205 duo though. I think you're right those are too abrasive for my needs as well.

But the D300 comes with a finishing wax D301 or something. Its the Meguires Dual Action set or something like that.
You're right. There is a combo with D300 and D301 that is very nice. You can then apply a glaze or wax after that, or a sealant.

On my very first detail of my M3, I tried D300 and D301. I used the cutting and finishing MF pads from Meguiar's too for those steps. I then applied a CG glaze and finally some Jetseal from CG. I was pretty satisfied, but the amount of effort and time it took to do all of those steps was a rough for my first time. I was happy with the results, but it can be pretty time intensive.

If you are looking for multiple steps, I would recommend D300 with a cutting MF pad from Meguiar's, followed by AF Tripple on maybe a medium polish pad (or even a finishing polish pad), then seal with Tough Coat with a sponge applicator. You will be very happy with the results. I found this combo worked wonders on my girlfriend's Chevy Malibu. I'd say about 90%-95% of the defects were removed, others were either too deep and into the paint or needed a harsher abrasive compound.

If that is too much work, use Tripple on a cutting pad followed by Tough Coat and call it a day. You'll still get some outstanding results, probably 85% or more reduction in defects. It's much faster.

I really can't say enough about Tough Coat. It is a fantastic product. Easy to apply and easy to buff. You won't need to reapply for a while either. I've forgotten how long it's been since I put it on my truck (it's been that long) and water still beads on my truck like it was applied yesterday!
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      08-29-2012, 08:44 AM   #25
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I guess I need to try this Auto Finesse stuff. You guys seem to like it a lot.
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      08-29-2012, 10:35 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Templar View Post
You're right. There is a combo with D300 and D301 that is very nice. You can then apply a glaze or wax after that, or a sealant.

On my very first detail of my M3, I tried D300 and D301. I used the cutting and finishing MF pads from Meguiar's too for those steps. I then applied a CG glaze and finally some Jetseal from CG. I was pretty satisfied, but the amount of effort and time it took to do all of those steps was a rough for my first time. I was happy with the results, but it can be pretty time intensive.

If you are looking for multiple steps, I would recommend D300 with a cutting MF pad from Meguiar's, followed by AF Tripple on maybe a medium polish pad (or even a finishing polish pad), then seal with Tough Coat with a sponge applicator. You will be very happy with the results. I found this combo worked wonders on my girlfriend's Chevy Malibu. I'd say about 90%-95% of the defects were removed, others were either too deep and into the paint or needed a harsher abrasive compound.

If that is too much work, use Tripple on a cutting pad followed by Tough Coat and call it a day. You'll still get some outstanding results, probably 85% or more reduction in defects. It's much faster.

I really can't say enough about Tough Coat. It is a fantastic product. Easy to apply and easy to buff. You won't need to reapply for a while either. I've forgotten how long it's been since I put it on my truck (it's been that long) and water still beads on my truck like it was applied yesterday!
Great feedback and a nice perspective comparing two different lines of products!

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I guess I need to try this Auto Finesse stuff. You guys seem to like it a lot.
There are so many great products out there from different companies. Like I said before and what Templar may be alluding to, the beauty of the AF stuff is that it really is just so user friendly!
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      09-03-2012, 08:27 PM   #27
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Do you have a recommendation for a foam gun?

What DA polisher would you recommend? I'm a noob at using them, but I am tired of the ugly swirl marks on my car and I need to do some minor correction on my wife's AW 328. I'd prefer to not get something that is completely for beginners and will have to step up within a few months of owning, unless that learning step is significantly easier.

Have you tried the Power Seal from AF yet? I was debating on that versus the Tough Coat.

Last edited by fuzzybam; 09-03-2012 at 08:32 PM.
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      09-03-2012, 08:38 PM   #28
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Do you have a recommendation for a foam gun?
I use the Gilmour Foamaster II. It does an acceptable job, but no where near the foam levels of the higher end foam guns. For just a detailing enthusiast as myself, it more than suffices.

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What DA polisher would you recommend? I'm a noob at using them, but I am tired of the ugly swirl marks on my car and I need to do some minor correction on my wife's AW 328. I'd prefer to not get something that is completely for beginners and will have to step up within a few months of owning, unless that learning step is significantly easier.
Griot's Garage DA 6" Buffer. This buffer is perfect for a beginner all the way to the pros! It's that easy to use, yet even more effective. I think the biggest thing though is using good pads, keeping them clean, and using solid technique.

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Have you tried the Power Seal from AF yet? I was debating on that versus the Tough Coat.
I haven't tried Power Seal just yet since I still have quite a bit of Tough Coat left. Seeing some of the reviews on various forums, Power Seal seems to be one of the longer lasting routes for paint protection. I may give it a shot before the winter snow storms hit. As for now though, I am more than happy using Tough Coat and topping it off with either Spirit or Desire.
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      09-03-2012, 08:42 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by flipm3 View Post
I use the Gilmour Foamaster II. It does an acceptable job, but no where near the foam levels of the higher end foam guns. For just a detailing enthusiast as myself, it more than suffices.



Griot's Garage DA 6" Buffer. This buffer is perfect for a beginner all the way to the pros! It's that easy to use, yet even more effective. I think the biggest thing though is using good pads, keeping them clean, and using solid technique.


I haven't tried Power Seal just yet since I still have quite a bit of Tough Coat left. Seeing some of the reviews on various forums, Power Seal seems to be one of the longer lasting routes for paint protection. I may give it a shot before the winter snow storms hit. As for now though, I am more than happy using Tough Coat and topping it off with either Spirit or Desire.
Hit the nail on the head
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      09-03-2012, 09:20 PM   #30
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I have used Meguiers 105 applied with an orbital buffer with very good results.
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      10-01-2012, 09:13 AM   #31
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OK so I finally got around to doing a detail on my AW car. I used the Meguires DA system with D300 and D301.

I loved working with these products so easy to remove.

I have one question. I noticed some swirls on random parts of the car. For these tougher areas could I used M105 then go over with D300 to bring back the shine, then follow up with the D301?
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      10-01-2012, 09:38 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HREM3 View Post
OK so I finally got around to doing a detail on my AW car. I used the Meguires DA system with D300 and D301.

I loved working with these products so easy to remove.

I have one question. I noticed some swirls on random parts of the car. For these tougher areas could I used M105 then go over with D300 to bring back the shine, then follow up with the D301?
You can do that but I think following up with 205 will be better. So 105>d300>205
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      10-01-2012, 10:08 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by rjd598 View Post
You can do that but I think following up with 205 will be better. So 105>d300>205
So then do 105->205->Wax/seal? I like the D300/301 but like I said some areas still have swirls. I may need something more intense.
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      10-01-2012, 10:50 AM   #34
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So then do 105->205->Wax/seal? I like the D300/301 but like I said some areas still have swirls. I may need something more intense.
105>205>wax/seal is very common since it works most of the time. Sometimes after 205 people will use a fine polish line menzerna 85rd to real jewel the finish. It's a guess and check type of thing. Alot of people like d300 as well but I haven't heard too much about d301. Try the 105>205 route. Should get you to a near showroom finish
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      10-01-2012, 11:31 AM   #35
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As rjd said, 105/205 works well, it finishes LSP-ready much of the time.
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      10-01-2012, 12:00 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjd598 View Post
105>205>wax/seal is very common since it works most of the time. Sometimes after 205 people will use a fine polish line menzerna 85rd to real jewel the finish. It's a guess and check type of thing. Alot of people like d300 as well but I haven't heard too much about d301. Try the 105>205 route. Should get you to a near showroom finish
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As rjd said, 105/205 works well, it finishes LSP-ready much of the time.
Thanks for the help guys. Looks like I'll need to add a few products to really get to perfection.

D301, is basically just a finishing wax. An LSP with protective agents in it. I really want to keep the whole process to the fewest steps.
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      07-09-2013, 11:31 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Chriskm3 View Post
U can use chemical guys v36 and v38 and that cuts imperfections ad finishes beautfly. V34 cuts deep scratches and finishes nicely as well. Followed by a sealant and wax ur done.
Which pad did you use with this as a one step?

I just detailed my AW M3 this last week...



1) Washed and clayed in one step using Chemical Guys Rinsless Eco Wash, 2 bucket method, and CG's synthetic clay mitt... Got the paint super smooth for the next steps
2) washed the wheels using Meguiars wheel cleaner, rinsed with a bottle pump sprayer, then finished with CG's waterless ecosmart
3) used a combination of CG's V32/V34/36 (from a small sampler pack) on some panels that had deep noticeable scratches from far away using Yellow and Orange Hex Logic Pads on a Portal Cable DA... Completely eliminated them

Now here is the step where I think I went wrong because I was trying to take a short cut

4) decided to use my CG Deep Reflections XP as a one step to correct the rest of the car using a hexlogic green pad... Worked real good and seemed to get rid of the remainder of swirls and from most angles and lights it looks like the picture above... But i dunno if I am picky, but under certain lights and up close I am noticing tiny buffer swirls...
5) topped with M-Seal which was easy on and easy off

After talking with CG... Seems that the tiny buffer swirls is likely because I used a green cutting pad on a polish when I should have used a white or blue pad.

So to correct this... Should I go over the whole car again with V36 and either orange or white pad then top with M-Seal? Or can I get away with deep reflections and a white pad instead?

Going to also detail my wife's VW CC using the same process... But when it comes to the polishing step... Wonder if I should just use V36 with orange or white then finish with M-Seal? Or use Deep Reflections and a white pad?

Also to add... My buddy keeps telling me to just do V36 to V38 to a glaze then seal... I dont have time for all those steps... So I am hoping just going V36 or deep reflections to a sealant will be good
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      07-10-2013, 01:21 AM   #38
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Cutting pads such as green and orange are to eliminate inperfections. Combing such with a cutting agent (v34,36) will eliminate most visible marks, but in order to achieve desired cut the pad is formed harsh enough to remove a thin layer of clearcoat eliminating those nasty Scrathes but leaving light swirls and holograms on your finish. This is where the polishing pads come in. White. Blue. Black. Using those pads that corrected (cut) clearcoat is ready for a polish to bring the shine back to the paint and remove very minor swirls that you are noticing.
When working inside please prepare a led light to help you spot such areas.
In your case I would just polish each section without cutting and that should fix your problem. After that jetseal/opticoat and your set.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PandaM3 View Post
Which pad did you use with this as a one step?

I just detailed my AW M3 this last week...



1) Washed and clayed in one step using Chemical Guys Rinsless Eco Wash, 2 bucket method, and CG's synthetic clay mitt... Got the paint super smooth for the next steps
2) washed the wheels using Meguiars wheel cleaner, rinsed with a bottle pump sprayer, then finished with CG's waterless ecosmart
3) used a combination of CG's V32/V34/36 (from a small sampler pack) on some panels that had deep noticeable scratches from far away using Yellow and Orange Hex Logic Pads on a Portal Cable DA... Completely eliminated them

Now here is the step where I think I went wrong because I was trying to take a short cut

4) decided to use my CG Deep Reflections XP as a one step to correct the rest of the car using a hexlogic green pad... Worked real good and seemed to get rid of the remainder of swirls and from most angles and lights it looks like the picture above... But i dunno if I am picky, but under certain lights and up close I am noticing tiny buffer swirls...
5) topped with M-Seal which was easy on and easy off

After talking with CG... Seems that the tiny buffer swirls is likely because I used a green cutting pad on a polish when I should have used a white or blue pad.

So to correct this... Should I go over the whole car again with V36 and either orange or white pad then top with M-Seal? Or can I get away with deep reflections and a white pad instead?

Going to also detail my wife's VW CC using the same process... But when it comes to the polishing step... Wonder if I should just use V36 with orange or white then finish with M-Seal? Or use Deep Reflections and a white pad?

Also to add... My buddy keeps telling me to just do V36 to V38 to a glaze then seal... I dont have time for all those steps... So I am hoping just going V36 or deep reflections to a sealant will be good
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      07-10-2013, 02:02 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriskm3 View Post
Cutting pads such as green and orange are to eliminate inperfections. Combing such with a cutting agent (v34,36) will eliminate most visible marks, but in order to achieve desired cut the pad is formed harsh enough to remove a thin layer of clearcoat eliminating those nasty Scrathes but leaving light swirls and holograms on your finish. This is where the polishing pads come in. White. Blue. Black. Using those pads that corrected (cut) clearcoat is ready for a polish to bring the shine back to the paint and remove very minor swirls that you are noticing.
When working inside please prepare a led light to help you spot such areas.
In your case I would just polish each section without cutting and that should fix your problem. After that jetseal/opticoat and your set.
Thanks... I will try then to just redo the M3 using the Deep Reflections XP One step polish with a white pad...

Do i need to do something to strip the M Seal back off? Or can I polish through with the white pad? Anythoughts of a rinseless method to strip off the sealant? As i dont really have much of a water source in my condo.

When I do my wife's VW CC I guess I'll just plan on using deep reflections on a white pad to prep the paint for sealant on the hood... If that doesnt work too well I will drop down to V36.

As far as led light... I was using my mountain bike led light... A 900 ish lumen Jet Light branded light. I think the white paint plus my LED was so bright that the shine/ glare made it difficult to see the swirls.
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