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      07-25-2012, 10:32 PM   #1
Kradi
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Leather Dying !

I spend a lot of time in my car, and after a year my leather is starting to really wear down. Especially the driver's seat near the door and the arm rest.

What do you guys use to clean and maintain the leather? I've tried some stuff out, but no good

Let me know your thoughts. Thanks !
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      07-25-2012, 10:44 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Kradi View Post
I spend a lot of time in my car, and after a year my leather is starting to really wear down. Especially the driver's seat near the door and the arm rest.

What do you guys use to clean and maintain the leather? I've tried some stuff out, but no good

Let me know your thoughts. Thanks !
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      07-25-2012, 11:13 PM   #3
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That sucks. I use Poorboys interior dressing but it's not a conditioner just a cleaner. I have not used a conditioner and my leather looks fine after 23k. Not sure how many miles you have. I have used meguiers leather conditioner in other cars with good results.
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      07-25-2012, 11:18 PM   #4
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Adams interior/leather cleaner. Works magic i swear. follow with adams conditioner.
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      07-25-2012, 11:29 PM   #5
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i regularly wipe down with BMW leather conditioner...don't buy it, it's expensive for what it is...a common leather cleaner
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      07-26-2012, 12:55 AM   #6
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I got some cleaner and conditioner from a company called Chemical Guys. They make all sorts of professional car detailing products. This stuff works great and smells pretty decent. Definitely keeps the leather in great shape. I use it a lot on the steering wheel to try and keep the matte finish instead of the shiny look.

Link here: http://www.chemicalguys.com/Leather_...spi_109_16.htm
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      08-09-2012, 10:08 AM   #7
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If you're looking for Dye, check out the Swissvax line. Their leather healer worked great on my black novillo!
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      08-10-2012, 06:24 AM   #8
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Basic 3- Step Leather Care

Finished Leather

There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by leather experts themselves who use baffling pseudo scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer. Here is one definitive truth –you are dealing with the leathers finish, not the hide itself.

The use of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the above

Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased Isocyanate based ethyl carbamate (urethane) finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM in modern automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, together with a clear top coat provides a very durable surface finish

Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.

Premium leatherhas a recognizable fragrance that is missing from polyurethane and plastic; simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the steps that will prolong the life of finished leather.


1. Clean - there are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear prematurely. The first is dirt, and the second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear

2. Hydrate – when leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.

3. Protect - is essential as it will protect the surface finish, without hindering transpiration, while acting as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off

3a. Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant is water-based and will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) radiation protection against photo degradation (fading); especially in a roadster or convertible vehicles, steering wheels and dashboards. It doesn’t contain silicones, so it won't attract and capture dust. You should apply to a clean surface (it doesn’t contain any cleaning agents) It will not prevent finished leather hydration (transpiration and evaporation of moisture) as it’s water-based, although it coats the leather with a micro fine coating; it will not seal it per se.

Note: this product does NOT air dry. Use a second dry cloth to finish the application process. Extra buffing with at dry cloth increases bonding, repellence and durability


Relevant Articles

1. “Leather Articles Hyperlinks” http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...yperlinks.html

2. “Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html
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      08-10-2012, 08:33 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOGWT View Post
Finished Leather

There is a great deal of conflicting information on leather care being put out by leather experts themselves who use baffling pseudo scientific techno speak as another marketing ploy, which makes it difficult to find a definitive, unbiased answer. Here is one definitive truth –you are dealing with the leathers finish, not the hide itself.

The use of oils, replacement of fat liquor, oil-based conditioning, proteins or the adjustment of pH levels is totally unnecessary; the surface is a urethane that contains pigmentation (colour) it neither needs or benefits from any of the above

Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased Isocyanate based ethyl carbamate (urethane) finished leather upholstery is used by 95% as OEM in modern automobiles. It comprises a multi stratum acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system covering over the leather hide; the top strata are the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, together with a clear top coat provides a very durable surface finish

Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.

Premium leatherhas a recognizable fragrance that is missing from polyurethane and plastic; simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the steps that will prolong the life of finished leather.


1. Clean - there are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear prematurely. The first is dirt, and the second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear

2. Hydrate – when leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.

3. Protect - is essential as it will protect the surface finish, without hindering transpiration, while acting as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off

3a. Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant is water-based and will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) radiation protection against photo degradation (fading); especially in a roadster or convertible vehicles, steering wheels and dashboards. It doesn’t contain silicones, so it won't attract and capture dust. You should apply to a clean surface (it doesn’t contain any cleaning agents) It will not prevent finished leather hydration (transpiration and evaporation of moisture) as it’s water-based, although it coats the leather with a micro fine coating; it will not seal it per se.

Note: this product does NOT air dry. Use a second dry cloth to finish the application process. Extra buffing with at dry cloth increases bonding, repellence and durability


Relevant Articles

1. “Leather Articles Hyperlinks” http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...yperlinks.html

2. “Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html
Is this just an ad for a product you used?
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      08-10-2012, 01:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snig View Post
If you're looking for Dye, check out the Swissvax line. Their leather healer worked great on my black novillo!
Did you need to order a custom color, or was the standard black good enough?
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      08-10-2012, 04:02 PM   #11
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Did you need to order a custom color, or was the standard black good enough?
I think the F034 is the one for the Black Novillo
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      08-11-2012, 12:47 AM   #12
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I think the F034 is the one for the Black Novillo
Great. Thanks! My bolster has been bothering me a bit lately.
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      08-12-2012, 12:52 AM   #13
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Great. Thanks! My bolster has been bothering me a bit lately.
Thats what I was going to order mine for...and the left side of the steering wheel, which u can now actually see the discoloration
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      08-12-2012, 06:20 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
Is this just an ad for a product you used?
If this was an ad (and it obviously isn't) wouldn't I name the product? I find it very unethical, and not something I would condone; to advertize your own products unless you are a forum sponsor

Within these 31 articles you’ll discover the ‘How’ and ‘Why’ and find pretty much everything you need to know about automotive leather detailing; if you do your research correctly.

TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...yperlinks.html I hope the information in this article is of some help to you.

If you have any further questions please let me know - “Leather Articles Hyperlinks” http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...yperlinks.html

Last edited by TOGWT; 08-12-2012 at 06:25 AM.
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      08-13-2012, 10:10 AM   #15
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I literally need to condition my leather once or twice a month to keep it in good condition. I have no idea how others keep their leather in such condition without significant labor.
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      08-16-2012, 01:13 AM   #16
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Quote:
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I literally need to condition my leather once or twice a month to keep it in good condition. I have no idea how others keep their leather in such condition without significant labor.
lol
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      08-16-2012, 01:39 AM   #17
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Big fan of Zaino's leather treatment goods. Also smells like leather.

It's been two years since taking delivery of my M and the leather still has the new car smell and plushness, without being shinny and oily.
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      08-16-2012, 09:09 AM   #18
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lol
Aren't you the guy wants to see some full leather?
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      08-16-2012, 10:36 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Aren't you the guy wants to see some full leather?
ya so i know whether i should get it on my 2nd m or not

dont see what the problem is. but then i stumbled upon your thread of full extended and saw how bad it gets if not taken care of properly and i think im gonna pass up on it. thanks tho!
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      08-16-2012, 04:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRSSIIM3 View Post
ya so i know whether i should get it on my 2nd m or not

dont see what the problem is. but then i stumbled upon your thread of full extended and saw how bad it gets if not taken care of properly and i think im gonna pass up on it. thanks tho!
wrinkles are normal noob. Pass up on full leather because you saw some pictures of it on the internet, sounds logical... If your good with interior detailing, go for it, smells great.

Fwiw, I try to keep my interior wrinkle free, I'm currently using swissvax leather conditioner works well. Personally, full leather is nice, but you can live without it. When I pick up my GT3, I'll be happy to have less leather in the car.
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      08-16-2012, 06:07 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nine View Post
wrinkles are normal noob. Pass up on full leather because you saw some pictures of it on the internet, sounds logical... If your good with interior detailing, go for it, smells great.

Fwiw, I try to keep my interior wrinkle free, I'm currently using swissvax leather conditioner works well. Personally, full leather is nice, but you can live without it. When I pick up my GT3, I'll be happy to have less leather in the car.
so after conditioning it, it got better?
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      08-16-2012, 06:30 PM   #22
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Zaino "leather in a bottle"
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