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      10-10-2011, 07:00 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
If I'm reading all of this right, it goes like this...

OEM -1.1
w/o pins -1.7
Dinan -2.0
OEM about -1.0
w/o pins ( and std springs) -1.3 to 1.6
Dinan -0.7 to above ( so -2.0)
Ground Control adjusts from -1.5 to -4.0
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      11-16-2011, 04:30 PM   #112
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Since this thread is now part of the sticky Track FAQ, I thought I'd add a handy link to this thread where people are posting their alignment specs: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367003

Quote:
OEM about -1.0
w/o pins ( and std springs) -1.3 to 1.6
Dinan -0.7 to above ( so -2.0)
Ground Control adjusts from -1.5 to -4.0
It seems like many, if not most, people posting in these threads get Ground Control camber plates along with a new coilover setup, but GC will work with OEM springs. I think the max negative camber you can get depends on whether you're doing camber plates with the OEM suspension. I have GC close to maxed out at -3.0 on ZCP stock.

FWIW, I feel this one change (camber plates for more negative camber up front) made such a huge improvement in track cornering and virtually eliminating understeer, I recommend it for anyone doing more than a couple of track events. And it can be a quite affordable solution that pays for itself quickly by saving you $$$ in tires.
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      11-16-2011, 05:38 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llis View Post
Since this thread is now part of the sticky Track FAQ, I thought I'd add a handy link to this thread where people are posting their alignment specs: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367003



It seems like many, if not most, people posting in these threads get Ground Control camber plates along with a new coilover setup, but GC will work with OEM springs. I think the max negative camber you can get depends on whether you're doing camber plates with the OEM suspension. I have GC close to maxed out at -3.0 on ZCP stock.

FWIW, I feel this one change (camber plates for more negative camber up front) made such a huge improvement in track cornering and virtually eliminating understeer, I recommend it for anyone doing more than a couple of track events. And it can be a quite affordable solution that pays for itself quickly by saving you $$$ in tires.
I also have the GC plates and have -3 up front and -2 in the rear and the car is a different animal. Instead of getting frustrated fighting the car in the corners it turns in almost telepathically.

I do have gripes about the GC springs. 1) they become unseated at full droop and 2) they started squeaking like a 30 year old couch. I've contacted gc but no specific remedy was offered. Other than that I'm happy with the setup.
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      11-16-2011, 07:05 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4sevens.com View Post
I also have the GC plates and have -3 up front and -2 in the rear and the car is a different animal. Instead of getting frustrated fighting the car in the corners it turns in almost telepathically.

I do have gripes about the GC springs. 1) they become unseated at full droop and 2) they started squeaking like a 30 year old couch. I've contacted gc but no specific remedy was offered. Other than that I'm happy with the setup.
If you are talking about the front axle, squeaking may be coming from the sway bar end links. Lube them regularly
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      08-02-2012, 06:41 PM   #115
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      08-02-2012, 08:48 PM   #116
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So whats the recommended - camber front/rear with addition of only c. plates for the track on stock EDC suspension?
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      08-02-2012, 08:49 PM   #117
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Currently running -2.7 front -2.0 rear, with KW clubsports. I expect the front to wear too quickly, but if they wear fast I'll back the camber down in front. Toe is 1/32 out in front and 1/16 in in rear. The turn in feels fantastic.
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      08-02-2012, 08:50 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot View Post
So whats the recommended - camber front/rear for the track on stock EDC suspension?
Max out the front, and pull the pins out of the front struts, which allows for more. -1.5 front is a good goal for front, and won't wear your tires bad. -1.5 to -2.0 is good for rear.
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      08-02-2012, 09:06 PM   #119
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[quote=Porschefile;12436999]Max out the front, and pull the pins out of the front struts, which allows for more. -1.5 front is a good goal for front, and won't wear your tires bad. -1.5 to -2.0 is good for rear.[/QUOT

To be honest i dont really care about tire wear on the street. I feel like stock susp. is very capable, but what would be ideal - camber for the track with C. Plates as only susp. mod?
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      08-02-2012, 09:42 PM   #120
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I haven't seen a conclusive figure, but more than 1.5. Probably somewhere in the high 2's to low 3's.
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      08-02-2012, 09:52 PM   #121
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What do you think about -2.5 front, -2 rear for pilot sport cups?
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      08-02-2012, 09:54 PM   #122
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I think -3.0 is a tad much for my Dunlop Z1*. I think Porschefile is onto something. I plan to try -2.7ish to see what happens.
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      08-02-2012, 09:56 PM   #123
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Quote:
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What do you think about -2.5 front, -2 rear for pilot sport cups?
Definitely in the right ballpark, try it and see.
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      08-02-2012, 10:07 PM   #124
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Quote:
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What do you think about -2.5 front, -2 rear for pilot sport cups?
Read this: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...nd_Feeding.pdf
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      08-03-2012, 02:44 AM   #125
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Very interesting! Thanks for the link.
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