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      06-24-2012, 10:31 AM   #1
paradocs98
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Looking for DIY on StopTech pad change

I've had my StopTech ST60/ST40 setup for over a year now and have been very happy with it. I initially did a couple of sets of the StopTech Street Performance pads, and now I've moved on to Pagid RS29s.

It's time that I learn how to swap pads myself, especially since the StopTech caliper design makes it so easy. I'm looking for a DIY guide to the procedure, specifically for a StopTech setup. I looked in StopTech's faq section on their site, but found nothing regarding instructions for swapping pads, and I haven't found anything on this forum or the rest of the web detailing the procedure for StopTech calipers.

Anyone know of a link, or is anyone willing to type out a DIY for this? (Maybe Richard @ M-World?)

Thanks!
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      06-24-2012, 10:18 PM   #2
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It doesn't get any easier than this, you'll love it!

1) Jack up corner, remove wheel.

2) Remove the bridge bolts that are visible on the caliper face (x4 on ST60,
x2 on the ST-40) with the 4 or 5mm(?) hex key that came with the kit.
I usually remove them in sequence starting from the top down, since the
bridge is spring loaded it can pivot on the bottom bolt. Otherwise it can
pinch and bind on one of the middle bolts.

3) Remove the bridge on the outer part of the caliper. My ST-40s just easily
pull straight out. The 60s on front have a very tight fit requiring some
gentle persuasion. I use a long flat screwdriver with a soft rag btw/ the
caliper so as not to chip the paint. It doesn't take a lot of force just a
wiggle to get it started since it is spring-loaded.

4) Spread the pistons apart. I use a GiroDisc tool.

5) Pluck out the pads and insert the new ones.

6) Replace the bridge on the caliper. There is a top and bottom, with an
arrow on the bridge face pointing up. Again, the 60s are tight. Here is
where I get my rubber mallet with the soft rag and gently but firmly tap
bridge inward until it seats flush. You'll see what I mean.

7) Reinsert bridge bolts (Don't lose washers). Careful not to cross-thread or
let them bind up. Use the rubber mallet again if necessary. Tighten w/
hex key to what I would call "firm hand tight" (I don't know the exact
torque specs but they are not load-bearing).

8) Wheel on, lower corner, repeat x 3. Pump brakes to seat pistons after
all four are done. Piece of cake.
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      06-25-2012, 08:47 AM   #3
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Sweet! Thanks!
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      06-27-2012, 10:44 PM   #4
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In your opinion, is the GiroDisc tool really worth the money if switching from track to street pads between events?
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      06-27-2012, 11:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
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In your opinion, is the GiroDisc tool really worth the money if switching from track to street pads between events?
Yes.
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      06-28-2012, 11:05 AM   #6
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Yes.
8" Pliers don't work?
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      06-28-2012, 11:19 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moxie View Post
8" Pliers don't work?
The Girodisc tool is easy, quick and safe. It pushes the used pads back in one action so you can remove them, and it pushes all 4 or 6 pistons in simultaneously (and perfectly straight) so you can put the new pads in. I swap pads on my Mustang Brembo's every week or two, and I can do both sides in less than 10 minutes with the Girodisc, a pin punch and a deadblow hammer (for the retaining pins). It makes the job ridiculously easy.
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      06-28-2012, 01:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAJ View Post
The Girodisc tool is easy, quick and safe. It pushes the used pads back in one action so you can remove them, and it pushes all 4 or 6 pistons in simultaneously (and perfectly straight) so you can put the new pads in. I swap pads on my Mustang Brembo's every week or two, and I can do both sides in less than 10 minutes with the Girodisc, a pin punch and a deadblow hammer (for the retaining pins). It makes the job ridiculously easy.
+1
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      06-28-2012, 06:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAJ View Post
The Girodisc tool is easy, quick and safe. It pushes the used pads back in one action so you can remove them, and it pushes all 4 or 6 pistons in simultaneously (and perfectly straight) so you can put the new pads in. I swap pads on my Mustang Brembo's every week or two, and I can do both sides in less than 10 minutes with the Girodisc, a pin punch and a deadblow hammer (for the retaining pins). It makes the job ridiculously easy.
+2
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      06-29-2012, 05:17 AM   #10
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Pagids arrived yesterday so I did a test fit on my St 60/40. Used a 8" pliers like in the video - too easy. Maybe if I had $$ coming out of my ass or had to change my pads in the pits where the brakes were hot I'd spend the $250. It's a nice tool, but not $250 nice. Least not to me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBtcTZPsLR8
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      06-29-2012, 07:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moxie View Post
Pagids arrived yesterday so I did a test fit on my St 60/40. Used a 8" pliers like in the video - too easy. Maybe if I had $$ coming out of my ass or had to change my pads in the pits where the brakes were hot I'd spend the $250. It's a nice tool, but not $250 nice. Least not to me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBtcTZPsLR8


I love the tool but hey I'm a brake whore so it's worth it to me. Some people like you have a thing about expensive little pieces of carbon fiber. Me, I like brakes. So to each his own. It's all good.

(BTW why would you pay $200 for those RPI scoops? )
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      06-30-2012, 12:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper519 View Post
I love the tool but hey I'm a brake whore so it's worth it to me. Some people like you have a thing about expensive little pieces of carbon fiber. Me, I like brakes. So to each his own. It's all good.

(BTW why would you pay $200 for those RPI scoops? )
I didn't but point taken. I'm sure if I was a brake whore I'd have to have them too. Maybe if we move back to McDonough you'll let me use tham sometime? And those RPI scoops add 7 HP @ upper RPM's
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      06-30-2012, 12:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moxie View Post
I didn't but point taken. I'm sure if I was a brake whore I'd have to have them too. Maybe if we move back to McDonough you'll let me use tham sometime? And those RPI scoops add 7 HP @ upper RPM's

Sounds like a plan, you can borrow it anytime! Hey, I've got to get my money's worth out of it somehow. It's going to be 105 degrees F today in Georgia, you might want to wait til it's cooler to move back here though.

And speaking of carbon fiber, I'm in the market for a front lip. Hoping to find one that will add ~5 ft-lbs of torque.

Like I said, it's all good.
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      07-01-2012, 02:34 PM   #14
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5mm hex for the bridge bolts.

I just use my hands or the brake pad to push the caliper back. I think the $200 tool would be great but not at all necessary.

UUC has the best price I've seen...$200.

Here's a video

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      08-26-2013, 11:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeper519 View Post
It doesn't get any easier than this, you'll love it!

1) Jack up corner, remove wheel.

2) Remove the bridge bolts that are visible on the caliper face (x4 on ST60,
x2 on the ST-40) with the 4 or 5mm(?) hex key that came with the kit.
I usually remove them in sequence starting from the top down, since the
bridge is spring loaded it can pivot on the bottom bolt. Otherwise it can
pinch and bind on one of the middle bolts.

3) Remove the bridge on the outer part of the caliper. My ST-40s just easily
pull straight out. The 60s on front have a very tight fit requiring some
gentle persuasion. I use a long flat screwdriver with a soft rag btw/ the
caliper so as not to chip the paint. It doesn't take a lot of force just a
wiggle to get it started since it is spring-loaded.

4) Spread the pistons apart. I use a GiroDisc tool.

5) Pluck out the pads and insert the new ones.

6) Replace the bridge on the caliper. There is a top and bottom, with an
arrow on the bridge face pointing up. Again, the 60s are tight. Here is
where I get my rubber mallet with the soft rag and gently but firmly tap
bridge inward until it seats flush. You'll see what I mean.

7) Reinsert bridge bolts (Don't lose washers). Careful not to cross-thread or
let them bind up. Use the rubber mallet again if necessary. Tighten w/
hex key to what I would call "firm hand tight" (I don't know the exact
torque specs but they are not load-bearing).

8) Wheel on, lower corner, repeat x 3. Pump brakes to seat pistons after
all four are done. Piece of cake.
Do you need to open the brake fluid reservoir or bleed screw when doing spreading the pistons apart?
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      08-26-2013, 11:22 PM   #16
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Lisle pad spreader is 50 bucks I think.
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      08-27-2013, 05:33 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Do you need to open the brake fluid reservoir or bleed screw when doing spreading the pistons apart?
Holy thread bump, Batman!

I don't open the reservoir cap when I change the pads, but I do make sure to pump the brake pedal a couple of times after doing each corner to reseat the pistons on the pads. I don't wait until all four corners are done before pressing the brake pedal--I would be concerned that the brake fluid reservoir would overflow.

I would also think that, by opening the bleed screws on the calipers, you could run the risk of getting brake fluid all over the calipers and damaging the finish.
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      08-27-2013, 12:18 PM   #18
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Yes, what he said. ^
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      08-27-2013, 09:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradocs98 View Post
Holy thread bump, Batman!

I don't open the reservoir cap when I change the pads, but I do make sure to pump the brake pedal a couple of times after doing each corner to reseat the pistons on the pads. I don't wait until all four corners are done before pressing the brake pedal--I would be concerned that the brake fluid reservoir would overflow.

I would also think that, by opening the bleed screws on the calipers, you could run the risk of getting brake fluid all over the calipers and damaging the finish.
Haha bringing threads back from the dead!
Thanks, that's how I've done it. But yesterday I read something about forcing old fluid back up through the system and thought I'd ask.
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      08-27-2013, 09:47 PM   #20
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Help! Currently changing race pads back to street pads which are brand new. Am I missing something or doing something wrong, coz u make it aound like the brand new pads should just slide in. Pistons are in but the new pads that came with the stop tech BBK trophy wouldnt just slide in but instead I have to hammer it down?! Is this normal? AND unlike hawk the stoptech pads came with plates, am I suppose to take em out? They look like plates where the pistons press on.
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      08-27-2013, 09:56 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Help! Currently changing race pads back to street pads which are brand new. Am I missing something or doing something wrong, coz u make it aound like the brand new pads should just slide in. Pistons are in but the new pads that came with the stop tech BBK trophy wouldnt just slide in but instead I have to hammer it down?! Is this normal? AND unlike hawk the stoptech pads came with plates, am I suppose to take em out? They look like plates where the pistons press on.
I just got sr34s and st pads and neither have backing plates. Their is an issue with new calipers having trouble getting the pads to slide in. Its tight. Mine went fine on brand new st-40s.
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