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      06-26-2012, 03:35 PM   #23
Orange fever
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Very nice next on the list
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      06-26-2012, 04:15 PM   #24
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IMO, I would not have put the fuse there. The fuse should be as close to the battery as possible. It is to protect from fires more than it is to protect your equipment. If the power wire rubs through and grounds between the battery and the fuse, you will have a fire.
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      07-01-2012, 01:32 PM   #25
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What did you need to connect to the oem power distribution block on the battery? I see open slots, but looks proprietary.
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      07-12-2012, 10:14 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by M3PO View Post
IMO, I would not have put the fuse there. The fuse should be as close to the battery as possible. It is to protect from fires more than it is to protect your equipment. If the power wire rubs through and grounds between the battery and the fuse, you will have a fire.
There are 2 fuses
There is one on the red cable coming out of the battery, right behind where the 2 red cables go behind the right trunk trim
The other fuse is the one shows next to amp
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      07-12-2012, 10:14 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EliteM3 View Post
What did you need to connect to the oem power distribution block on the battery? I see open slots, but looks proprietary.
There is an OEM part that plugs into it
Don't have the part number. It search for battery connector and you'll find it
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      07-12-2012, 10:15 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by nmehta211 View Post
Yep
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      10-11-2012, 11:27 AM   #29
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What did you use to tap into the stock stereo? I have premium sound and want to simply add a sub & amp.
Andreas
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      10-11-2012, 02:09 PM   #30
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What did you use to tap into the stock stereo? I have premium sound and want to simply add a sub & amp.
Andreas
Technics harness then an Audiocontrol LC2i Line output converter to bring the levels down to regular Line level RCA

basically the harness fits between the OEM connecter that used to go into the amp
then the other end of the harness fits into the amp
so instead of:
oem plug---amp
you have
oem plug---technics harness---amp
and from technics harness you have a connecter that has a tap from the wires that go to the underseat subs
those go into the LC2i which brings them down from 150w each
down to a managable level that an aftermarket amp can handle

it's pretty easy
and you can buy both from technics, so the wiring is already done
PM him for more details

best thing is
no need to cut or modify any wires
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      10-11-2012, 08:27 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmarei View Post
Yep
Did the price increase since you bought it? I think that's pretty close to the same price as musicarNW and the shipping is outrageous.
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      10-11-2012, 08:32 PM   #32
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Did the price increase since you bought it? I think that's pretty close to the same price as musicarNW and the shipping is outrageous.
price hasn't gone up
still $360
and i know they will accept $300 for it
and the shipping is $43 (to me )
that's pretty reasonable considering the size of the shipping box
it's huge!

muicar is close to 800 no?

one tip of you get it
i sprayed the inside with 2 cans of plastidip
it's fantastic
seals any air leaks and dampens the sound a lot
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      10-11-2012, 10:59 PM   #33
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Isn't it $800 with a woofer? The eBay one is $360 unloaded and when I checked it said $198 shipping. It might have been taking into account shipping to Hawaii. I can't remember if I was logged in when I checked.
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      10-12-2012, 10:12 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by 808MGuy View Post
Isn't it $800 with a woofer? The eBay one is $360 unloaded and when I checked it said $198 shipping. It might have been taking into account shipping to Hawaii. I can't remember if I was logged in when I checked.
not sure
on the musicar website, the loaded one with amp is $1000
they don't have prices without a sub/amp
i know i paid $40 something shipping to virginia
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      10-12-2012, 10:47 AM   #35
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Nice work.. Looks great

I need to do some research and find out what this LC2i thingy is. I know nothing about audio other than loving my EPS.
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      10-12-2012, 01:09 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
Nice work.. Looks great

I need to do some research and find out what this LC2i thingy is. I know nothing about audio other than loving my EPS.
it takes the wires that go to the underseat subs
which have 150watts per channel
and brings the level way down, so you can then plug that cable into a regular aftermarket amp
i believe most aftermarket amps can accept up to 8 volts at their inputs
the level of the signal in the underseat subs is close to 30 volts
so you'd fry the input stage of any amp of you plug them in directly
LC2i takes care of that
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      10-12-2012, 02:02 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmarei View Post
it takes the wires that go to the underseat subs
which have 150watts per channel
and brings the level way down, so you can then plug that cable into a regular aftermarket amp
i believe most aftermarket amps can accept up to 8 volts at their inputs
the level of the signal in the underseat subs is close to 30 volts
so you'd fry the input stage of any amp of you plug them in directly
LC2i takes care of that
Do you need that even if you amp has high level inputs?
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      10-12-2012, 02:14 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redline Bandit View Post
Do you need that even if you amp has high level inputs?
yep
no amp i know of can handle 150 watts input
hi level means you can hook up the wires going from head unit to speakers
which are usually 50 watts max
not 150 watts rms
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      10-12-2012, 02:18 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmarei View Post
yep
no amp i know of can handle 150 watts input
hi level means you can hook up the wires going from head unit to speakers
which are usually 50 watts max
not 150 watts rms
Thanks for the quick reply!
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