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      05-28-2012, 05:58 PM   #45
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I did my first run at the track with the Dinan Stage I and the GC plates (the normal ones). I was at about -1.5 degress of camber before, -3.5 with the GC plates. There was more front end grip and the outside of my front tires were unscathed. I like the 3.5 because I could keep my hot PSI at 40 without killing the outside of my front tires. I could probably go with 37 or 38 hot and still be good.

I did warn the shop about the bolt plate issue before doing the alignment...even with cantrell mod.
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      05-29-2012, 07:29 PM   #46
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Bigjae,

Are you planning on adjusting them back and forth from Street to Track, or just leave them alone at -3.5?
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      05-29-2012, 09:34 PM   #47
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I did my first run at the track with the Dinan Stage I and the GC plates (the normal ones). I was at about -1.5 degress of camber before, -3.5 with the GC plates. There was more front end grip and the outside of my front tires were unscathed. I like the 3.5 because I could keep my hot PSI at 40 without killing the outside of my front tires. I could probably go with 37 or 38 hot and still be good.

I did warn the shop about the bolt plate issue before doing the alignment...even with cantrell mod.
Can you post a picture of your front wheels. I'm curious to see the gap between tire and fender with your setup. I'm having my camber plates (short version) installed tomorrow. I'll post a picture to compare.
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      05-29-2012, 09:58 PM   #48
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Bigjae,

Are you planning on adjusting them back and forth from Street to Track, or just leave them alone at -3.5?
I got my plates marked so I go to about 1.5 on the street.

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Can you post a picture of your front wheels. I'm curious to see the gap between tire and fender with your setup. I'm having my camber plates (short version) installed tomorrow. I'll post a picture to compare.
None yet. Its the same as an OEM ZCP E90 in the front.
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      05-29-2012, 10:16 PM   #49
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None yet. Its the same as an OEM ZCP E90 in the front.
Got it. So basically, no change in ride high from before and after installing the camber plates.

In theory, you're loosing about 0.3" in suspension travel by going with the standard GC plate vs the Dinan shaved top hat. I don't know if you DD your car but would be curious if you notice any difference in ride comfort?
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      05-30-2012, 08:00 AM   #50
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No change on the street...at least none that I've noticed.
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      05-30-2012, 12:22 PM   #51
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Quote:
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I got my plates marked so I go to about 1.5 on the street.



None yet. Its the same as an OEM ZCP E90 in the front.

Just curious, any idea what your front toe is doing on the changeover?

My toe was changing dramatically when going from -1.5 to just -3.0.

I'm leaving my camber static at -2.5 (not enough IMO) and adjusting the toe out for track days with the left front tie rod.
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      05-30-2012, 06:11 PM   #52
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I have to check the sheets later tonight.
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      05-31-2012, 03:50 PM   #53
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At the 2.5 mark...

Camber (L/R): -3.52/-3.58
Toe: -.06"/-.06"

At "V" mark on plate (made by the shop)

Camber (L/R): -1.99/-2.04
Toe: .20"/.20"
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      05-31-2012, 03:52 PM   #54
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If I had to do it again, I would go with less track camber, about -3.0 with about the same amount of toe. Which I would believe allow me to go with -1.75 for the street with less toe in or -1.5ish with the same amount of toe in. (.2" ea side)
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      05-31-2012, 07:21 PM   #55
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Your track toe of 1/16" out looks good. But that's a hefty amount of toe in for the street (Total toe = 6.4/16").

I've struggled with this issue, trying to find the easiest way to adjust both camber and toe at the track but it gets complicated and usually ends up as some kind of compromise. My mechanic who aligns for me is an old friend, and he gives me good natured shit about me trying screw around with tie rod revolutions in the paddock and losing count, etc. Says I'll probably just screw it all up and won't be able to drive it home straight, lol.

I'm going to run a few events this summer like it is and revisit the whole alignment strategy with him again. (He's a big nazi about toe issues!)

Bigjae, thanks for your info, good luck!
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      06-01-2012, 10:48 AM   #56
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I'd change it but my alignment guy closed his shop, sold his alignment rack with some sort of agreement to use it. That fell through so now I have no one that I trust. Trustworthy, knowledgable shops are few in Central Texas.

Anyways...I want to try less negative camber on the track. which would require a smaller change to my street settings and less toe swing. So I can be closer to spec. The wear on my front tires isn't even close to the arrows on the top of the sidewall.
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      12-08-2013, 11:28 AM   #57
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For those interested, I just ordered the shorter GC plate to go with my Dinan stage 1 suspension. I's planned to go in next week. I'm no expert in suspension but my local shop confirmed that it should work fine.

If I get this whole thing correctly my 2 choices were:

A) Get Dinan camber plate
This would raise the front by 1/4" which I'm not excited as I find it a bit too high already and the amount of camber you can get is limited. In my case, I could only get -1.4 with the pin pulls so probably ~-2.1 with Dinan plate

B) Get GC plates (modified shorter one)
This gives me all the camber I want or may want in the future, increase the suspension travel on top of what I already have with Dinan and doesn't increase the ride height like the Dinan plates would. That sounds to good to be true, what did I miss??? Someone said something to the effect that the EDC strut could have a problem with too much increase in suspension travel. Could I switch back to my OEM bumpstop (from the Dinan E36 one) if this a problem to reduce the suspension travel?

Here is a version of the side-by-side comparison that I modified to what made sense to me. Anyone care to comment if I got this right or am I totally off? If the install is successful, I'm taking this to the track next Friday.
Thought I would bump this thread. I am thinking of going with the GC camber plates on top of the Dinan Stage 1 kit. But after reading through this thread, it's not clear to me whether it's possible to buy the GC camber plates with a shorter stack height (second from the left in the pic above) or you have to modify a GC camber plate.

Also, any long-term feedback from anyone who went this route?
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      12-09-2013, 02:55 PM   #58
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Thought I would bump this thread. I am thinking of going with the GC camber plates on top of the Dinan Stage 1 kit. But after reading through this thread, it's not clear to me whether it's possible to buy the GC camber plates with a shorter stack height (second from the left in the pic above) or you have to modify a GC camber plate.

Also, any long-term feedback from anyone who went this route?
The Dinan Stage 1 + shorter GC camber plates setup worked just fine for me. I ran it for a while and switched later to KW coilovers. You should be able to call and order them. Or if you want to save a few bucks, mines are available.
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      12-10-2013, 12:11 AM   #59
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The Dinan Stage 1 + shorter GC camber plates setup worked just fine for me. I ran it for a while and switched later to KW coilovers. You should be able to call and order them. Or if you want to save a few bucks, mines are available.
Thanks for the reply. How did you acquire the shorter GC camber plates? Did you modify standard GC camber plates or buy them as is?

Are you willing to sell the GC camber plates alone?
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      12-11-2013, 12:20 PM   #60
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Thanks for the reply. How did you acquire the shorter GC camber plates? Did you modify standard GC camber plates or buy them as is?

Are you willing to sell the GC camber plates alone?
The shop that did the install for me bought them directly from GC. The shop did not have to modify anything, it came as is from GC. I was told that you simply need to specify which one you want and they would assemble it and ship.

Yes I'm willing to sell the GC camber plates alone.
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