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      04-23-2010, 05:27 PM   #1
EAS
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▀▄ eas | DIY: Macht Schnell - Competition Stud Conversion Kit Installation

Step 1
Jack up the vehicle and secure it on jackstands.Unbolt the lug bolts.


Step 2
Remove wheel from hub.


Step 3
Remove wheel and clean hub of all dirt and/or surface rush with a wire wheel to ensure a clean and flush surface. [optional]


Step 4
Apply loctite onto the end of the studs and hand tighten the studs onto the hub.





Step 5
Use an allen wrench to completely tighten the studs onto the hub.


Step 6
Put your wheel back on and torque down the wheel locks. Repeat for the other three wheels.

This is how it will look finished without the wheel on it yet(also has a spacer on it)



Enjoy!
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      04-23-2010, 10:42 PM   #2
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This is an awesome DIY. Answers many questions I had regarding. THANKS!
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      04-24-2010, 01:50 AM   #3
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no specific torque spec?
hmmm
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      04-24-2010, 04:21 AM   #4
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Great info here, but whats the different by using new extended studs compared to buy extended lugbolts? thanks
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      04-26-2010, 12:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FruitCake View Post
no specific torque spec?
hmmm
The torque spec is the same as your lugs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sehrgut View Post
Great info here, but whats the different by using new extended studs compared to buy extended lugbolts? thanks
Many people prefer studs because of the ease of swapping wheels, and not having to change lugbolts every time they change wheels. Those would be the advantages of doing a conversion.
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      04-26-2010, 10:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david @ eas View Post
The torque spec is the same as your lugs.



Many people prefer studs because of the ease of swapping wheels, and not having to change lugbolts every time they change wheels. Those would be the advantages of doing a conversion.
I think he was asking the torque of the bolts in the wheel hub...although this is moot if they are stuck with Loctite?
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      04-28-2010, 06:10 PM   #7
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Turner recommends 16 ft-lbs of torque for the stud in the hub. Nuts to stud should be the same as your original lug bolts (around 85 ft-lbs).
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      04-29-2010, 06:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KM3 View Post
Turner recommends 16 ft-lbs of torque for the stud in the hub. Nuts to stud should be the same as your original lug bolts (around 85 ft-lbs).
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      05-04-2010, 12:24 PM   #9
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How much is a kit like this? Considering the amount of times per year I swap wheels for track and street duty this might be a great mod.
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      05-04-2010, 12:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex///M View Post
How much is a kit like this? Considering the amount of times per year I swap wheels for track and street duty this might be a great mod.
Everything can be found on our website.
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      07-23-2011, 07:57 AM   #11
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Thanks for the write up David. Been looking for this.
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      01-01-2012, 12:55 AM   #12
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Question, Can you get these off later, Like 1.5 years later for lease return?

D
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      01-03-2012, 03:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Definitive View Post
Question, Can you get these off later, Like 1.5 years later for lease return?

D
Yes you sure can, they come off as easily as they are installed!
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      01-03-2012, 05:07 PM   #14
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Good to know thanks.
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      05-09-2012, 09:49 PM   #15
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Can someone please explain why 16 torques is sufficient, when the lugs will need 85? Won't the studs come off when you try to remove the wheel?

Does the loctite hold it together? I mean, the hub can take 85 and more...
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      05-11-2012, 12:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
Can someone please explain why 16 torques is sufficient, when the lugs will need 85? Won't the studs come off when you try to remove the wheel?

Does the loctite hold it together? I mean, the hub can take 85 and more...
The stud torque is just to keep it on the hub when you loosen the lugs. The 88 ft lb. on the lug nut will determine the actual torque of the stud and nut.
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      10-30-2012, 03:58 PM   #17
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Good lord, imageshack as an image host, and in a vendor DIY? Unimpressive.
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