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      04-19-2012, 10:03 PM   #1
LiM3y
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DIY: Schroth Rallye 3 Install

Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk!

This is for cars with through-loading system. If you do not have this, you will need to remove the rear seat back.

I also need an interior detail - I have brake dusty fingerprints all one the back seat from swapping winter wheels. I never sit back there, so I didn't notice until the photos!

The removal is fairly straightforward, just a few steps to get in the correct sequence. The only real pain was putting the shoulder trim back in because of the airbag release clips. I dropped one on each side. At least when I get a rattle, I know where to look now. I'll go get them when I get the urge.


































The seat anchors are installed the same as in this thread from Bigjae: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674335

My first impression sitting in the stationery car is that your hips are absolutely locked in, but your upper body can move around a bit with the long pivot to the rear, however, once you are strapped in and driving, you are held pretty damn solid...much more than a CG lock or "locked off" stock harness. Once you get used to leaning into the straps, it really stabilizes you and you hold the wheel with your fingertips even on tight bends. You can really feel the weight of the car move around, especially the braking as you feel it in your ass and also now on your shoulders. It does change your ride. After a couple of commutes, I am used to having the harness there now, and tight bends become a lot more fun when you are not hanging on. The compression feels a little odd, and you can't move around to look in mirrors (an old habit of mine from the UK) as much. I am looking forward to my skid school tomorrow.

You absolutely need the accessory grips for the pull down and waist straps if you want to get tight. I would recommend the extra padding for the shoulder straps if you have a thick neck like me. After a couple of tries, the best way to tighten the lap is to tighten while sat in the seat, unclip, tighten the straps a little more and get back in and leave the lap belt at that setting and clip in. I found that tightening the lap belt first with the shoulder straps off makes it much easier to line the lap belt up, then pulling the shoulder straps your shoulders and pulling tight. If you have the shoulder straps on while tightening the lap belt, it has a tendency to pull the lap belt up and get the alignment with your hips wrong.

Anyway, so far, so good. Hope this helps someone else out!
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      04-19-2012, 10:05 PM   #2
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Any chance you could make the pics a little smaller.....
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      04-19-2012, 10:06 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Any chance you could make the pics a little smaller.....
Bloody hell...and now you've messed up the extra boxes I needed for follow on posts!
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      04-19-2012, 10:09 PM   #4
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Any chance you could make the pics a little smaller.....
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      04-19-2012, 10:13 PM   #5
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Bloody hell...and now you've messed up the extra boxes I needed for follow on posts!
I aim to please....maybe a moderator can give you a mulligan
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      04-19-2012, 10:16 PM   #6
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      05-05-2012, 11:33 PM   #7
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Awesome, thanks!

now to decide between the 3 and the 4...
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      05-06-2012, 06:51 PM   #8
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So did you have to introduce the 90 bend in the metal anchor piece yourself, or was it designed that way?
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      05-06-2012, 08:52 PM   #9
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How does this interact with the stock seat belt? In other words, does the car believe you have your OEM belt fastened or do you have to deal with the seat belt warning chime?
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      05-07-2012, 09:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
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So did you have to introduce the 90 bend in the metal anchor piece yourself, or was it designed that way?
You have to twist it yourself. The metal is remarkably soft! There is a 90deg twist and a slight tilt to lie it flat on the inertial reel.
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      05-07-2012, 09:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
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How does this interact with the stock seat belt? In other words, does the car believe you have your OEM belt fastened or do you have to deal with the seat belt warning chime?
I have the OEM belt fastened too. You could pick up an E9X buckle from a breakers yard.
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      05-07-2012, 09:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiM3y View Post
You have to twist it yourself. The metal is remarkably soft! There is a 90deg twist and a slight tilt to lie it flat on the inertial reel.
If it's that soft, are you that trustworthy that it will hold if an accident occurs?

Also, what is everyone's thoughts on the fact that the belt comes from the rear seat area to the driver's seat at an angle?
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      05-08-2012, 06:23 AM   #13
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If it's that soft, are you that trustworthy that it will hold if an accident occurs?

Also, what is everyone's thoughts on the fact that the belt comes from the rear seat area to the driver's seat at an angle?
I have decided to use the stock belts at the same time to switch off the chime. The gear is DOT approved, and the other belts using these belts FIA approved, so I guess you have to go with that. At the end of the day, the harness in this case is there to hold me tightly in my seat.

The belt appears to be designed with that angle in mind. It does hold you in well when tightened up. You do have bit of lateral movement, but you can still hold the wheel with your finger tips in hard turns and lean into the harness. I went with the Rallye 3 as the seat back in our cars has not been certified yet, I am also quite tall, so I would worry about the compression from the angle of the straps.
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