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[Malek@MRF]

Originally Posted by tibra1

^This...I cant believe how many install spacers without proper prep of the hub area..if anti-seize was used you would never have this issue

Anti-seize does not always hold up against everything and will eventually not work over time when subjected to a lot of heat and the elements.

Secondly, anti-seize should not be used on the face of the hub and the pad of the spacer as it creates an uneven mating surface which can lead to vibration. It should be used only around the hub.

[Brucewonder]

Originally Posted by Singletrack

This is why I really like the TMS spacers...and they are fully coated after they are engraved; so no exposed raw aluminum. : )

yup

[kmarei]

At the risk of sounding stupid
Would these help?
In between hub and spacer?

http://www.kleenwheels.com/wheel%20mate_info.htm

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by kmarei

At the risk of sounding stupid
Would these help?
In between hub and spacer?

http://www.kleenwheels.com/wheel%20mate_info.htm

There's no need for those, just prepping and anti-sieze around the lip is recommended.

[TTSam]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

There's no need for those, just prepping and anti-sieze around the lip is recommended.

I just put on my summers with some Macht Schnell spacers from EAS (15mm front 12mm rear on 19" 220's).

My winters came off easily and the hub was relatively rust free with almost a grease ring around it (winters put on by BMW).

The rear spacers just slipped on, but the fronts I had to tap down lightly with a rubber hammer to get flush with the hub.

Are the Macht Schnells as good as any for future removal based on their coatings - and aluminum to steel issues mentioned in the thread?

I noticed some notches on the spacers - is this what you would use to pry them off?

Thanks in advance.

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by TTSam

I just put on my summers with some Macht Schnell spacers from EAS (15mm front 12mm rear on 19" 220's).

My winters came off easily and the hub was relatively rust free with almost a grease ring around it (winters put on by BMW).

The rear spacers just slipped on, but the fronts I had to tap down lightly with a rubber hammer to get flush with the hub.

Are the Macht Schnells as good as any for future removal based on their coatings - and aluminum to steel issues mentioned in the thread?

I noticed some notches on the spacers - is this what you would use to pry them off?

Thanks in advance.

Those are reliefs for a flat tipped screwdriver or other prying tool to easily separate the spacer from the hub.

[kitw]

Originally Posted by Malekreza11

Anti-seize does not always hold up against everything and will eventually not work over time when subjected to a lot of heat and the elements.

Secondly, anti-seize should not be used on the face of the hub and the pad of the spacer as it creates an uneven mating surface which can lead to vibration. It should be used only around the hub.

Well, the reason that you don't need anti seize on the face of the hub is that the hub is aluminum! No galvanic corrosion there. Just the hub is steel.

No, you aren't going to get vibration from anti-seize on the face, it's a liquid.

And, the fact that it won't last forever (true!) is not a good reason not to use it! I wouldn't leave spacers on for more than 3-6 months depending on how rainy/humid/salty it is where you live. I always install aluminum spacers with anti seize.

[JC919]

anti-seize, anti-seize, anti-seize

[Singletrack]

Originally Posted by kitw

Well, the reason that you don't need anti seize on the face of the hub is that the hub is aluminum! No galvanic corrosion there. Just the hub is steel.

No, you aren't going to get vibration from anti-seize on the face, it's a liquid.

And, the fact that it won't last forever (true!) is not a good reason not to use it! I wouldn't leave spacers on for more than 3-6 months depending on how rainy/humid/salty it is where you live. I always install aluminum spacers with anti seize.

Anti-seize, at least the one I use, becomes a gel-like substance once it heats up. IIRC TMS also recommends not applying it to the face for the same reason.

I don't think Malek was saying not to use it on the hub, I think he was just agreeing that you can still have problems even when using it.

[Singletrack]

Originally Posted by TTSam

I just put on my summers with some Macht Schnell spacers from EAS (15mm front 12mm rear on 19" 220's).

My winters came off easily and the hub was relatively rust free with almost a grease ring around it (winters put on by BMW).

The rear spacers just slipped on, but the fronts I had to tap down lightly with a rubber hammer to get flush with the hub.

Are the Macht Schnells as good as any for future removal based on their coatings - and aluminum to steel issues mentioned in the thread?

I noticed some notches on the spacers - is this what you would use to pry them off?

Thanks in advance.

If you get vibration, you may need to clean up the surface better. Personally, I cleaned the hell out of the hub, face, and mounting surface of the wheel. You really shouldn't have to force it on; even lightly. They should slide on and rotate with no resistance or binding. I mean, if you want them to be perfect that is...

[e1000]

Originally Posted by Singletrack

This is why I really like the TMS spacers...and they are fully coated after they are engraved; so no exposed raw aluminum. : )

+10000000000

[DFDubM]

Recently had to take some off of a car I just purchased that came with them installed. After a Discount Tire employee beat the hell out of them with no success I took the car back and went straight to a friend's garage who used to race and now instructs. He had them off in about 15 minutes. No prying at all. He used a punch to wedge into one of the predrilled holes in the spacer and gave it a couple of good knocks to make it spin on the hub. Once we got them broke lose where they would rotate it was pretty easy to rotate right off. Don't focus on prying off, focus on getting them to rotate on the rim first.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by DFDubM

Recently had to take some off of a car I just purchased that came with them installed. After a Discount Tire employee beat the hell out of them with no success I took the car back and went straight to a friend's garage who used to race and now instructs. He had them off in about 15 minutes. No prying at all. He used a punch to wedge into one of the predrilled holes in the spacer and gave it a couple of good knocks to make it spin on the hub. Once we got them broke lose where they would rotate it was pretty easy to rotate right off. Don't focus on prying off, focus on getting them to rotate on the rim first.

this doesnt work if you have studs.

[DFDubM]

Originally Posted by chriszeh

this doesnt work if you have studs.

Good point. BTW, is the main reason for studs easier mounting of wheels?

[1MOREMOD]

main reason is strength. it is also convenient for me switching wheels all the time and i can pull my spacers on and off and use the same stud rather than having several different lengths.

[tmntmn]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

We were able to remove Aussie7's spacers on Monday, some heat was needed.

Going through our records, it seems these were originally installed 2.5 years ago, there was no anti-sieze left on the lip with confirmation from the owner they haven't been touched since the original installation.

With that being said, it would be good practice to possibly include spacers in on a regular maintenance schedule, reapplying anti-sieze on the hub lips annually (and removing any new surface rust), just to be on the safe side. Doesn't hurt to check them out every once in a while.

Any tips on how to remove the rust off the hub lips?

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by tmntmn

Any tips on how to remove the rust off the hub lips?

Sure, we have a DIY posted here: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262054

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

Sure, we have a DIY posted here: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262054

didnt know that was how i supposed to do it but came to the same conclusion on my own. use the wire wheel also. having studs makes this process a little tougher.