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[Aussie7]

I just got a new set of AG M359 wheels and tried to remove my front spacers and for the life of me I can't get them off? Sprayed them with WD40 and tried to knock them off with a hammer but they won't budge. The rear 15mm are fine to leave on as the offset looks good but the front looks like crap. Any ideas on how to get these off? My car looks like shit with these wheels that are sticking out beyond the fender. HELLLPP!!!!

[Krozi]

Spray then with penetrating lube and after a while use a blow torch to heat them up and pry them off. Use anti-seize next time.

[1MOREMOD]

had the same issue the first time i removed my fronts even with some antiseize used. its an aquired skill. i actually us a scraper used for paint removal and jam it in and wiggle then get a screwdriver in and pry it off. works well for me now as i take them on and off whenever i change wheels.

[chris s]

Yup, a thin screwdriver, a hammer and patience.... Lightly work your way around and pry it off.

[Aussie7]

Thanks. The spacers were installed by EAS. I will try your suggestions tomorrow.

[swamp2]

A dead blow (lead) hammer and/or wood chisel will also help in addition to the tips mentioned above. ALL spacer companies should put one or two pry slots or screw threads to assist in removal as this job can be a real PITA. It can cause a low end wheel shop (or owner themselves) to really screw up ones aluminum brake hats as well..

[bape_sta206]

Originally Posted by Aussie7

Thanks. The spacers were installed by EAS. I will try your suggestions tomorrow.

This is the reason why I purchased the updated MS with the little slits behind the spacers for easy removal. I had the same issue and bought a chisel which helped give me some space to stick a flat head in.

[Aussie7]

Originally Posted by bapesta206

This is the reason why I purchased the updated MS with the little slits behind the spacers for easy removal. I had the same issue and bought a chisel which helped give me some space to stick a flat head in.

Mine are about 2 years old so I have the old style without the slits

[kitw]

Unfortunately, putting an aluminum spacer onto a steel hub is a recipe for galvanic corrosion. This is more than likely why it's stuck. I had to cut a spacer off when this happened on my E36 Try spray the WD-40 or PB Blaster onto the seam between the hub and the spacer. (usually this is where they get stuck, not on the aluminum rotor face)

One trick you can try is to carefully drill into the spacer and then thread the hole, and put a bolt into it. Sometimes heat will break it loose as well (someone suggested a torch). Aluminum expands much quicker than steel, so heat the spacer and try to knock it off, or try a few heating and cooling cycles to see if it will break free.

Be careful with a chisel as it's bad to damage the aluminum rotor hat.

[Moxie]

I just took mine off after 2-3 years. Anti-seize was used but it's still a bitch on MS spacers w/o the slot. I used WD-40 but being impatient, I didn't let it soak in long. The front ones were easy as I could put a small screwdriver in between the hub & inside beveled edge of the spacer & pry. The back ones were a pain as I had to put a socket extension against the holes in the spacer & hit it with a hammer - spinning the spacer until I could get room to pry. I'd have to file down the edges on one of the rear spacers to use it again. The other three came off w/o damage.


You can see the pry marks on the inside beveled edge below & the damage to the rear spacer. It looks worse than it feels.

[Aussie7]

Looks like i'm going to have a long afternoon filled with a few colorful words in front of me to try and get these bitches off.

[Aussie7]

Well I had no success. Didn't try for too long as I didn't want to screw things up. Since EAS installed them I am sure they have the experience of trying to remove them. Will be going to EAS tomorrow to have these removed. I now know why they redesigned there spacers to include indentation to help in removing these PITA spacers.

[swamp2]

^ It takes a lot of patience and all the right tools as well as care using each one (torch, chisel, screw driver, etc.). I'm sure EAS will get you sorted out.

To all: Make sure all gouges that created and raised metal on either the hub or the spacer are removed before reinstalling spacers. You can use a file, sharp deburring "knife", sand paper, etc. Go slow and just get rid of the raised metal. Such raised spots probably would collapse under the load of the lug bolts, however, its just good practice to be safe, conservative and to do a job "the right way".

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by swamp2

^ It takes a lot of patience and all the right tools as well as care using each one (torch, chisel, screw driver, etc.). I'm sure EAS will get you sorted out.

To all: Make sure all gouges that created and raised metal on either the hub or the spacer are removed before reinstalling spacers. You can use a file, sharp deburring "knife", sand paper, etc. Go slow and just get rid of the raised metal. Such raised spots probably would collapse under the load of the lug bolts, however, its just good practice to be safe, conservative and to do a job "the right way".

yeah i gouged up my hats pretty good on my first removal and used a drill attached wheel to smooth things back out before reassembly. once i took them off once it became easy. its an art of sorts.

[tom @ eas]

We were able to remove Aussie7's spacers on Monday, some heat was needed.

Going through our records, it seems these were originally installed 2.5 years ago, there was no anti-sieze left on the lip with confirmation from the owner they haven't been touched since the original installation.

With that being said, it would be good practice to possibly include spacers in on a regular maintenance schedule, reapplying anti-sieze on the hub lips annually (and removing any new surface rust), just to be on the safe side. Doesn't hurt to check them out every once in a while.

[ottoblotto]

Get some kind of Phenolic or hard plastic wedge and work it with heat. That way there is no metal to metal contact and you dont damage the spacers. Unless of course you are tossing them then use a brass drift and big effin hammer smacking it around like a pimp.

Edit: Tom and the boys fixed it... beat me to the punch. Tom, I will take your advise though and check the anti seize regularly.

[Aussie7]

As Tom stated I was able to have them removed by him and all is good. As usual great service and immediate help from EAS and the problem is solved. Thanks to all for your help

[Singletrack]

Originally Posted by swamp2

A dead blow (lead) hammer and/or wood chisel will also help in addition to the tips mentioned above. ALL spacer companies should put one or two pry slots or screw threads to assist in removal as this job can be a real PITA. It can cause a low end wheel shop (or owner themselves) to really screw up ones aluminum brake hats as well..

This is why I really like the TMS spacers...and they are fully coated after they are engraved; so no exposed raw aluminum. : )

[tibra1]

Originally Posted by Krozi

Spray then with penetrating lube and after a while use a blow torch to heat them up and pry them off. Use anti-seize next time.

^This...I cant believe how many install spacers without proper prep of the hub area..if anti-seize was used you would never have this issue

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by tibra1

^This...I cant believe how many install spacers without proper prep of the hub area..if anti-seize was used you would never have this issue

not true. it can be a PIA even with.

[Singletrack]

Originally Posted by chriszeh

not true. it can be a PIA even with.

Concur. If you push your car, the anti-seize will not hold up to the heat for very long.

[tibra1]

If you use anti-seize and then a torch and some pent. oil..its really not that hard..damage is caused when you dont have the right tools