BMW M3 Forum (E90 E92)

BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read


Go Back   M3Post - BMW M3 Forum > E90/E92 M3 Technical Topics > Wheels + Tires Sponsored by The Tire Rack
  TireRack

KEEP M3POST ALIVE BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER LINK!
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      03-31-2012, 09:07 PM   #1
Aussie7
Private First Class
 
Drives: 2008 E90 M3 SSII
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: socal

Posts: 192
iTrader: (1)

How to remove MS spacers?

I just got a new set of AG M359 wheels and tried to remove my front spacers and for the life of me I can't get them off? Sprayed them with WD40 and tried to knock them off with a hammer but they won't budge. The rear 15mm are fine to leave on as the offset looks good but the front looks like crap. Any ideas on how to get these off? My car looks like shit with these wheels that are sticking out beyond the fender. HELLLPP!!!!
Aussie7 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      03-31-2012, 09:31 PM   #2
Krozi
Deutsche Jung aus Kölle
 
Krozi's Avatar
 
Drives: 2008 E92 ///M3 Alpine White
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SoFla - Bonita Springs

Posts: 2,702
iTrader: (21)

Spray then with penetrating lube and after a while use a blow torch to heat them up and pry them off. Use anti-seize next time.
__________________

2008 E92 ///M3 Alpine White//Fox Red//6MT//
Florida Bimmer - Join us on FaceBook!
Krozi is offline   Germany
0
Reply With Quote
      03-31-2012, 10:13 PM   #3
1MOREMOD
2014 Track Days - 11|Ridge 1:52:24|Pacific 1:35:72
 
1MOREMOD's Avatar
 
Drives: Race car->
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: check your mirrors

Posts: 12,352
iTrader: (5)

had the same issue the first time i removed my fronts even with some antiseize used. its an aquired skill. i actually us a scraper used for paint removal and jam it in and wiggle then get a screwdriver in and pry it off. works well for me now as i take them on and off whenever i change wheels.
__________________

02 Tiag e46 M3|6MT|GC plates|MCS c.o.|GC bars|GC race control arms|GC bushings|BW eng. & tran. mounts|subframe kit|BW race shifter|BW Jaffster|Euro header|BW exhaust|K&N c.a.i.|Epic race tune|Rouge pulleys|Seibon CF hood|CSL bumper|ST-40|XR-2|SS lines|half cage|Recaro profi|Profi 2 harness|BMWpedals|BW studs|
1MOREMOD is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      03-31-2012, 10:15 PM   #4
chris s
Major General
 
chris s's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 e92 M3
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New York

Posts: 5,368
iTrader: (8)

Yup, a thin screwdriver, a hammer and patience.... Lightly work your way around and pry it off.
__________________

2012 MR e92 M3 DCT, fully loaded... ESS VT2-625, Brembo 380, BBS FI's, Akra/Challenge Sport, KW Sleeve kit, Full OEM CF Interior
2008 e92 M3 Coupe 6MT | AW/BLK Extended...SOLD!
chris s is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      03-31-2012, 11:11 PM   #5
Aussie7
Private First Class
 
Drives: 2008 E90 M3 SSII
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: socal

Posts: 192
iTrader: (1)

Thanks. The spacers were installed by EAS. I will try your suggestions tomorrow.
Aussie7 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      03-31-2012, 11:42 PM   #6
swamp2
Lieutenant General
 
swamp2's Avatar
 
Drives: E92 M3
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Diego, CA USA

Posts: 10,201
iTrader: (1)

A dead blow (lead) hammer and/or wood chisel will also help in addition to the tips mentioned above. ALL spacer companies should put one or two pry slots or screw threads to assist in removal as this job can be a real PITA. It can cause a low end wheel shop (or owner themselves) to really screw up ones aluminum brake hats as well..
swamp2 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-01-2012, 12:15 AM   #7
tha_good_life
Brigadier General
 
tha_good_life's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 JzB E92 M3
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Seattle

Posts: 3,903
iTrader: (17)

Garage List
2010 BMW M3  [4.33]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie7 View Post
Thanks. The spacers were installed by EAS. I will try your suggestions tomorrow.
This is the reason why I purchased the updated MS with the little slits behind the spacers for easy removal. I had the same issue and bought a chisel which helped give me some space to stick a flat head in.
tha_good_life is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-01-2012, 12:37 AM   #8
Aussie7
Private First Class
 
Drives: 2008 E90 M3 SSII
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: socal

Posts: 192
iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bapesta206 View Post
This is the reason why I purchased the updated MS with the little slits behind the spacers for easy removal. I had the same issue and bought a chisel which helped give me some space to stick a flat head in.
Mine are about 2 years old so I have the old style without the slits
Aussie7 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      04-01-2012, 03:06 AM   #9
kitw
Colonel
 
kitw's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 MW M3/2014 Boxster S
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA

Posts: 2,549
iTrader: (14)

Unfortunately, putting an aluminum spacer onto a steel hub is a recipe for galvanic corrosion. This is more than likely why it's stuck. I had to cut a spacer off when this happened on my E36 Try spray the WD-40 or PB Blaster onto the seam between the hub and the spacer. (usually this is where they get stuck, not on the aluminum rotor face)

One trick you can try is to carefully drill into the spacer and then thread the hole, and put a bolt into it. Sometimes heat will break it loose as well (someone suggested a torch). Aluminum expands much quicker than steel, so heat the spacer and try to knock it off, or try a few heating and cooling cycles to see if it will break free.

Be careful with a chisel as it's bad to damage the aluminum rotor hat.
kitw is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      04-01-2012, 04:08 AM   #10
Moxie
Lieutenant Colonel
 
Moxie's Avatar
 
Drives: AW 328d Touring/SG 335d
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Stuttgart

Posts: 1,859
iTrader: (11)

I just took mine off after 2-3 years. Anti-seize was used but it's still a bitch on MS spacers w/o the slot. I used WD-40 but being impatient, I didn't let it soak in long. The front ones were easy as I could put a small screwdriver in between the hub & inside beveled edge of the spacer & pry. The back ones were a pain as I had to put a socket extension against the holes in the spacer & hit it with a hammer - spinning the spacer until I could get room to pry. I'd have to file down the edges on one of the rear spacers to use it again. The other three came off w/o damage.


You can see the pry marks on the inside beveled edge below & the damage to the rear spacer. It looks worse than it feels.
Attached Images
  

Last edited by Moxie; 04-01-2012 at 04:30 AM.
Moxie is offline   Germany
0
Reply With Quote
      04-01-2012, 12:11 PM   #11
Aussie7
Private First Class
 
Drives: 2008 E90 M3 SSII
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: socal

Posts: 192
iTrader: (1)

Looks like i'm going to have a long afternoon filled with a few colorful words in front of me to try and get these bitches off.
Aussie7 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      04-01-2012, 09:07 PM   #12
Aussie7
Private First Class
 
Drives: 2008 E90 M3 SSII
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: socal

Posts: 192
iTrader: (1)

Well I had no success. Didn't try for too long as I didn't want to screw things up. Since EAS installed them I am sure they have the experience of trying to remove them. Will be going to EAS tomorrow to have these removed. I now know why they redesigned there spacers to include indentation to help in removing these PITA spacers.
Aussie7 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      04-03-2012, 11:28 PM   #13
swamp2
Lieutenant General
 
swamp2's Avatar
 
Drives: E92 M3
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Diego, CA USA

Posts: 10,201
iTrader: (1)

^ It takes a lot of patience and all the right tools as well as care using each one (torch, chisel, screw driver, etc.). I'm sure EAS will get you sorted out.

To all: Make sure all gouges that created and raised metal on either the hub or the spacer are removed before reinstalling spacers. You can use a file, sharp deburring "knife", sand paper, etc. Go slow and just get rid of the raised metal. Such raised spots probably would collapse under the load of the lug bolts, however, its just good practice to be safe, conservative and to do a job "the right way".
swamp2 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-03-2012, 11:30 PM   #14
1MOREMOD
2014 Track Days - 11|Ridge 1:52:24|Pacific 1:35:72
 
1MOREMOD's Avatar
 
Drives: Race car->
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: check your mirrors

Posts: 12,352
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp2 View Post
^ It takes a lot of patience and all the right tools as well as care using each one (torch, chisel, screw driver, etc.). I'm sure EAS will get you sorted out.

To all: Make sure all gouges that created and raised metal on either the hub or the spacer are removed before reinstalling spacers. You can use a file, sharp deburring "knife", sand paper, etc. Go slow and just get rid of the raised metal. Such raised spots probably would collapse under the load of the lug bolts, however, its just good practice to be safe, conservative and to do a job "the right way".
yeah i gouged up my hats pretty good on my first removal and used a drill attached wheel to smooth things back out before reassembly. once i took them off once it became easy. its an art of sorts.
__________________

02 Tiag e46 M3|6MT|GC plates|MCS c.o.|GC bars|GC race control arms|GC bushings|BW eng. & tran. mounts|subframe kit|BW race shifter|BW Jaffster|Euro header|BW exhaust|K&N c.a.i.|Epic race tune|Rouge pulleys|Seibon CF hood|CSL bumper|ST-40|XR-2|SS lines|half cage|Recaro profi|Profi 2 harness|BMWpedals|BW studs|
1MOREMOD is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-03-2012, 11:40 PM   #15
tom @ eas
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor

 
tom @ eas's Avatar
 
Drives: BMW
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Anaheim, CA

Posts: 10,395
iTrader: (13)

Garage List
We were able to remove Aussie7's spacers on Monday, some heat was needed.

Going through our records, it seems these were originally installed 2.5 years ago, there was no anti-sieze left on the lip with confirmation from the owner they haven't been touched since the original installation.

With that being said, it would be good practice to possibly include spacers in on a regular maintenance schedule, reapplying anti-sieze on the hub lips annually (and removing any new surface rust), just to be on the safe side. Doesn't hurt to check them out every once in a while.
__________________
Tom G. | european auto source (eas)
email: tom@europeanautosource.com ˇ web: www.europeanautosource.com ˇ tel 866.669.0705 ˇ ca: 714.369.8524 x22

eas M4 AY Progress/Buildup Journal ˇ GET DAILY UPDATES ON OUR BLOG ˇ FACEBOOK ˇ YOUTUBE ˇ FLICKR ˇ INSTAGRAM
tom @ eas is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-03-2012, 11:43 PM   #16
ottoblotto
///M-Flight Bavaria
 
ottoblotto's Avatar
 
Drives: E90M3
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Im around

Posts: 1,198
iTrader: (3)

Garage List
2010 BMW X5  [0.00]
2011.75 BMW M3 E90  [5.00]
Get some kind of Phenolic or hard plastic wedge and work it with heat. That way there is no metal to metal contact and you dont damage the spacers. Unless of course you are tossing them then use a brass drift and big effin hammer smacking it around like a pimp.

Edit: Tom and the boys fixed it... beat me to the punch. Tom, I will take your advise though and check the anti seize regularly.
__________________
"With great power comes great responsibility." -El-Superbeasto
ottoblotto is offline   Germany
0
Reply With Quote
      04-04-2012, 04:35 PM   #17
Aussie7
Private First Class
 
Drives: 2008 E90 M3 SSII
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: socal

Posts: 192
iTrader: (1)

As Tom stated I was able to have them removed by him and all is good. As usual great service and immediate help from EAS and the problem is solved. Thanks to all for your help
Aussie7 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      04-04-2012, 05:06 PM   #18
Singletrack
4th down; 4th quarter? Renegade.
 
Singletrack's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 SSII E92 M3; 12 AW X5d
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Posts: 3,812
iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp2 View Post
A dead blow (lead) hammer and/or wood chisel will also help in addition to the tips mentioned above. ALL spacer companies should put one or two pry slots or screw threads to assist in removal as this job can be a real PITA. It can cause a low end wheel shop (or owner themselves) to really screw up ones aluminum brake hats as well..
This is why I really like the TMS spacers...and they are fully coated after they are engraved; so no exposed raw aluminum. : )
Singletrack is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-04-2012, 06:54 PM   #19
tibra1
Banned
 
Drives: 2011 ZCP M3 - 2007 335i crashd
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC

Posts: 6,777
iTrader: (4)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krozi View Post
Spray then with penetrating lube and after a while use a blow torch to heat them up and pry them off. Use anti-seize next time.
^This...I cant believe how many install spacers without proper prep of the hub area..if anti-seize was used you would never have this issue
tibra1 is offline   No_Country
0
Reply With Quote
      04-04-2012, 09:48 PM   #20
1MOREMOD
2014 Track Days - 11|Ridge 1:52:24|Pacific 1:35:72
 
1MOREMOD's Avatar
 
Drives: Race car->
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: check your mirrors

Posts: 12,352
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by tibra1 View Post
^This...I cant believe how many install spacers without proper prep of the hub area..if anti-seize was used you would never have this issue
not true. it can be a PIA even with.
__________________

02 Tiag e46 M3|6MT|GC plates|MCS c.o.|GC bars|GC race control arms|GC bushings|BW eng. & tran. mounts|subframe kit|BW race shifter|BW Jaffster|Euro header|BW exhaust|K&N c.a.i.|Epic race tune|Rouge pulleys|Seibon CF hood|CSL bumper|ST-40|XR-2|SS lines|half cage|Recaro profi|Profi 2 harness|BMWpedals|BW studs|
1MOREMOD is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-04-2012, 10:05 PM   #21
Singletrack
4th down; 4th quarter? Renegade.
 
Singletrack's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 SSII E92 M3; 12 AW X5d
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Posts: 3,812
iTrader: (3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by chriszeh View Post
not true. it can be a PIA even with.
Concur. If you push your car, the anti-seize will not hold up to the heat for very long.
Singletrack is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      04-04-2012, 10:25 PM   #22
tibra1
Banned
 
Drives: 2011 ZCP M3 - 2007 335i crashd
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC

Posts: 6,777
iTrader: (4)

If you use anti-seize and then a torch and some pent. oil..its really not that hard..damage is caused when you dont have the right tools
tibra1 is offline   No_Country
0
Reply With Quote
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:31 AM.




m3post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST