FORUMS
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| 02-23-2012, 12:16 AM | #23 |
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Street: Motul 600, OEM, etc.
Street & Track: Motul 660, SRF, Endless 650
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Build #1 NA: Big Willow 1:30.449 (NT01), Buttonwillow 13CW 1:56.634 (NT01), Autoclub Speedway Fontana 1:49.422 (NT01), Mfest2012 LMVS 1:59.002 (NT01+AD08), Streets of Willow 1:22.36 (RS3), Chuckwalla 2:02.46 (RS3), Laguna Seca 1:41.74 (R888), Infineon 1:50.346 (R888)
Build #2 VF SC: Buttonwillow 13CW 1:54.037 (TD), Big Willow 1:29.63 (R888) |
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| 02-23-2012, 02:16 AM | #24 | |
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Major General
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Quote:
The dry and WET boiling points of SRF is WAY higher than Ate, which is what the stock fluid is suppose to be. .
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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| 02-23-2012, 02:27 AM | #25 |
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Major
![]() Drives: E90 M3 Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: San Francisco
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Just wet boiling point doesn't tell the whole story. How dirty the fluid gets over time and how fast it gets to the wet boiling point over time. Stock fluids are designed to last years in cars that are parked outside 24/7.
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| 02-23-2012, 07:26 AM | #26 |
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Green Bastard
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I use SRF for a year with 15+ track days. I only bled the fluid and the brakes work great. I do a full flush once a year and each time the fluid wasn't dirty (slightly off color) and pedal feel was still great.
I got tired of flushing the motul after every track day, once that fluid boils its done. It's track dependent, if the track is brutal on brakes then SRF would be my only choice if you don't plan on flushing the fluid after every track day. Over the course of a year, you'll save money using SRF. I haven't tried the AP fluid or Endless so I can't comment on their performance, but I know SRF performs so I'm sticking with it. Last edited by Bubbles; 02-23-2012 at 07:33 AM. |
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| 02-23-2012, 12:56 PM | #28 |
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Banned
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| 02-23-2012, 02:22 PM | #29 | |
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Green Bastard
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Quote:
Slowly..no doubt.
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| 02-23-2012, 03:31 PM | #30 |
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Lieutenant General
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: MW E93 M3/E89 Z4 35i Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: The Valley, SoCal
Posts: 15,411
iTrader: (260)
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So if one has one brand in now, and one wants to change to a different brand, would one need more than 1L?
Or is 1L enough?
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![]() Next track day: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651089 Sorry I'm just someone who comes on here to fill a void..I dont have the $ to own a BMW. This is a nice E93:http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=434032 |
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| 02-23-2012, 03:36 PM | #31 |
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Banned
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| 02-23-2012, 04:57 PM | #33 |
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Green Bastard
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You end up using a little more than half the second bottle. Just split it with a buddy, cause that stuff isn't cheap. Not sure why you would use a liter for just bleeding though.
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| 02-28-2012, 08:18 AM | #35 |
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Brigadier General
![]() Drives: 04 330Ci, 11 E90 M3 Individual Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 4,145
iTrader: (8)
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Never heard that. I know you can't use DOT5 fluid in our systems for some season. And then certain higher end fluid can't be mixed with other fluid. Motul 600/660 and SRF are not one of those...AFAIK.
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| 02-28-2012, 08:14 PM | #36 |
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Second Lieutenant
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Never had a problem with ATE gold or blue in my E36, and have not had a problem with factory fill brake fluid in my e90. Used Hawk blue pads on my E36 and Hawk HP Plus in my E90. I change the fluid every 3 mo.
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| 02-28-2012, 08:34 PM | #37 |
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Banned
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You can use DOT 4 or 5.1 ...DOT 5 which is silcone based isnt miscible with DOT 4 or 5.1...if you use DOT 5 and you do not completely purge the system before conversion, the mixture may gel and result in serious braking issues
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