Clear bra quote

Poofyo101 · 01-16-2012, 11:28 PM

Just got a quote for $820 for
Front Bumper
Hood up to to the bump
Rear wheel/bumper area

Is this too much? About how much should it be?
Thanks
also anyone have any recommendations for clear bra installers in the charlotte,NC area?

skins333 · 01-17-2012, 12:15 AM

Pricing varies by region (and quality of the installer of course) but that's seems to be a very fair price...at least for the DC area, especially as it includes the area in the rear of the car. I'm assuming partial front fenders are included as well. It maybe worthwhile to spring for the entire hood and front fenders since you are doing more than the traditional "1/3 front" so you don't see any lines.

Envious Eric · 01-17-2012, 12:48 AM

I'd do full front hood and fenders, and skip the rear. Look at a price increase to about 1200+ though, some places in so cal for that type of work (wrapping around edges, not cuting to them, removing emblems, not cutting around them, same with side markers, will be in the 2K range. Have to pay for quality up front, but its a one time thing instead of having to go back and redo things...whats your time worth?

damage on M3's rear bumper is next to non unless tracking the car and getting sideways from time to time. At least out of the 50-60 that I have detailed in the last two years that is....

pro-tect mobile · 01-17-2012, 07:26 AM

A few things to look at when it comes to pricing. Type of material used... is it a good film. I recommend going with Avery Nano Fusion, Xpel Ultimate, or Ventureshield Ultra. I believe those to be the three best out ther and I carry all three films. Second is the quality of the installer. Check out his work and see how it looks. If you are happy with it, then go with him. There are a lot of variables when doing an install (custom cut versus pre-cut kit, wrpaped edges, removing emblems...) and all of these will increase the cost of the install. If you are happy with a precut kit and like how the shops work looks, then get it. If its a custom install then watch them install it. too many installers cut the paint during the install process and you wont know it until it has to be replaced... then they will deny it. The other is location. In a mrket where there are a lot of installers you will find some competitive pricing. Dont always go with the cheapest though... and surely dont always expect the most expensive to be the best. I have seem some shops here in Texas that charge over twice what I do and their work is not any good.

I know it sounds like a lot (and hopefully this helped) but this is something you want to be knowledgable in before you get it. It will either make your experience a great one or you will be very unhappy with your clear bra. By doing a little homework upfront it will save you a lot of time and money. If you have any more questions let me know.

pro-tect mobile · 01-17-2012, 07:27 AM

One more thing, the amount of coverage will obviously have an effect on the price. Full panels will always cost more to do but provide the best coverage and the fewest seem lines. I think with the M3 you should do the full hood because of the bulge. Also the rocker panels are a good idea and the area behind the rear wheels (which you mentioned. And I always recommend the headlights because it will save them from pitting and also from oxidizing years down the road.

Templar · 01-17-2012, 04:06 PM

Why do people refrain from doing the whole hood? Especially on a white car? You're going to see a nasty, ugly line smack dab in the middle of the hood...

Do it right or don't do it at all.

Martin_D · 01-17-2012, 11:09 PM

Entire front end should be $1200-1500...
-Full hood
-Full fenders
-Bumper
-Headlights
-Mirrors

THE TECH · 01-17-2012, 11:11 PM

I did the entire hood on mine and am very happy that I did. I just wished now that I would have done the complete fenders as well and not just the normal bit.

Poofyo101 · 01-18-2012, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martin_D

Entire front end should be $1200-1500...
-Full hood
-Full fenders
-Bumper
-Headlights
-Mirrors

Martin,
Where did you get yours done?

Martin_D · 01-18-2012, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poofyo101

Martin,
Where did you get yours done?

If you want to drive to Raleigh I can give you the name.

Autoshield does very well FYI...

Poofyo101 · 01-18-2012, 10:45 AM

Ok great thanks Martin. Any experience with clear bra'ing a white car?

Martin_D · 01-18-2012, 10:49 AM

If it were me I would replace it every year. On every color they show age, even if they are polished and sealed weekly. The film always shows age. If the people tell you otherwise they are lying.

Poofyo101 · 01-18-2012, 12:57 PM

Thanks Martin.

Martin_D · 01-18-2012, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poofyo101

Thanks Martin.

No problem let me know how it works out...

Martin

pro-tect mobile · 01-18-2012, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martin_D

If it were me I would replace it every year. On every color they show age, even if they are polished and sealed weekly. The film always shows age. If the people tell you otherwise they are lying.

Interesting. I guess there are a lot of liars out there. By the way you shouldnt be polishing the material. Simply apply a sealant it and thats it. Maybe the polishing is whats causing the wear... just sayin.

Martin_D · 01-18-2012, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pro-tect mobile

Interesting. I guess there are a lot of liars out there. By the way you shouldnt be polishing the material. Simply apply a sealant it and thats it. Maybe the polishing is whats causing the wear... just sayin.

All film changes over time. The polishing does not cause wear, the polish cleans the marring and haze off the material. I am trying to be honest. If you apply film to a fender, leave it on the car for a year and pull it off. Compare it to a piece of film that is brand new, not the same. These are garage kept vehicles maintained professionally.

It does protect the paint to some extent but it does change color over time. Not trying to argue just being honest to other forum members. I have been in the business since 2001...

Poofyo101 · 01-19-2012, 12:22 AM

Martin,
Spoke to auto shield and they also confirmed that film no matter on what color car will discolor over time. Usually it is just little discoloration but on certain colors such as AW it will show more. Have you continued to clear bra your cars?

Martin_D · 01-19-2012, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poofyo101

Martin,
Spoke to auto shield and they also confirmed that film no matter on what color car will discolor over time. Usually it is just little discoloration but on certain colors such as AW it will show more. Have you continued to clear bra your cars?

It depends if you know a good painter

It also depends if you are keeping the car...

pro-tect mobile · 01-19-2012, 05:33 PM

I have pulled film off of cars that have been on there for 6 years before... and it looked brand new. I isntall film so I see it all the time... and have been in business myself for 10 years now. There are numerous films out there and all age differently. But not all of them yellow if properly maintained. The only film out there that should be polished is 3M. It has a topcoat designed for it.... other films do not. I install ventureshield Ultra, Avery Nano Fusion, and Xpel Ultimate and there is no need... in fact not recommend... polishing any of them. By the way the car with the film that was removed was due to it getting keyed on the hood. The person who did it didnt know the film was on the car so they go the film. The car sat in the sun daily but was maintained with Zaino. Looked as good as the day it was installed... I installed it.

I also did some work the other day for a clinet that had 3M installed on their whote Volvo 17 years ago. The film still had not yellowed at all.... I have to say I was SHOCKED. Most film I have seen by 3M that has been instaleld for 6+ years has cracked and yellowed. But this was still in incredible shape. Would have taken a picture of it but I dont install 3M so it wouldnt do me any good.

Martin_D · 01-19-2012, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pro-tect mobile

I have pulled film off of cars that have been on there for 6 years before... and it looked brand new. I isntall film so I see it all the time... and have been in business myself for 10 years now. There are numerous films out there and all age differently. But not all of them yellow if properly maintained. The only film out there that should be polished is 3M. It has a topcoat designed for it.... other films do not. I install ventureshield Ultra, Avery Nano Fusion, and Xpel Ultimate and there is no need... in fact not recommend... polishing any of them. By the way the car with the film that was removed was due to it getting keyed on the hood. The person who did it didnt know the film was on the car so they go the film. The car sat in the sun daily but was maintained with Zaino. Looked as good as the day it was installed... I installed it.

I also did some work the other day for a clinet that had 3M installed on their whote Volvo 17 years ago. The film still had not yellowed at all.... I have to say I was SHOCKED. Most film I have seen by 3M that has been instaleld for 6+ years has cracked and yellowed. But this was still in incredible shape. Would have taken a picture of it but I dont install 3M so it wouldnt do me any good.

Send me a sample of the same stuff that I use that you listed. I will put it on my car with photos, and pull it off in a year. If it does not yellow, I will send you a check for $1,000.

BarryC · 01-19-2012, 09:08 PM

Hi all - my $0.02 is I had ventureshield on my JB 08 car and it looked like crap after year/year and a half. Had wear but no chips meaning no penetration but I thought it didn't look a lot better than not having film.

So is ventureshield not a good product or is my experience similar to most film?

BC

Martin_D · 01-19-2012, 09:20 PM

Same as all Barry. Silvers and Greys hide it best but all film will change over time even with professional upkeep.

01-16-2012, 11:28 PM	#1
Poofyo101 Major Drives: e92 ///M3 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: NC Posts: 1,084 iTrader: (9) Garage List 2012 BMW M3 [0.00] 1998 BMW M3 [0.00] 1989 BMW M3 [0.00] 1990 BMW M3 [0.00]	Clear bra quote Just got a quote for $820 for Front Bumper Hood up to to the bump Rear wheel/bumper area Is this too much? About how much should it be? Thanks also anyone have any recommendations for clear bra installers in the charlotte,NC area? __________________ 12 E92 M3-AW/FR-20" BBS LM-Painted Reflectors-BMW Gloss Black Grills + Gills-BMW Performance LED Wheel-BMW Carbon Performance Spoiler-Akra Evolution-Stoptech Trophy
	Tweet

01-17-2012, 07:27 AM	#5
pro-tect mobile Private Drives: 2007 Jeep SRT-8 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 84 iTrader: (0)	One more thing, the amount of coverage will obviously have an effect on the price. Full panels will always cost more to do but provide the best coverage and the fewest seem lines. I think with the M3 you should do the full hood because of the bulge. Also the rocker panels are a good idea and the area behind the rear wheels (which you mentioned. And I always recommend the headlights because it will save them from pitting and also from oxidizing years down the road. Last edited by pro-tect mobile; 01-17-2012 at 07:32 AM.

01-17-2012, 04:06 PM	#6
Templar Lieutenant Colonel Drives: 2011 E92 M3 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: NC Posts: 1,710 iTrader: (1) Garage List 2011 BMW M3 [5.00]	Why do people refrain from doing the whole hood? Especially on a white car? You're going to see a nasty, ugly line smack dab in the middle of the hood... Do it right or don't do it at all. __________________ '11 BMW E92 ///M3 - ZCP and DCT '11 Ford F-150 XLT - Supercrew, 4x4, Ecoboost V6, Chrome/Convenience Package, Tow Package

01-17-2012, 11:11 PM	#8
THE TECH BimmerPost Supporting Vendor Drives: BPMsport 2012 E92 M3 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Kansas Posts: 12,067 iTrader: (39)	I did the entire hood on mine and am very happy that I did. I just wished now that I would have done the complete fenders as well and not just the normal bit. __________________ Check us out on Facebook at BPMsportlabs

01-18-2012, 10:45 AM	#11
Poofyo101 Major Drives: e92 ///M3 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: NC Posts: 1,084 iTrader: (9) Garage List 2012 BMW M3 [0.00] 1998 BMW M3 [0.00] 1989 BMW M3 [0.00] 1990 BMW M3 [0.00]	Ok great thanks Martin. Any experience with clear bra'ing a white car? __________________ 12 E92 M3-AW/FR-20" BBS LM-Painted Reflectors-BMW Gloss Black Grills + Gills-BMW Performance LED Wheel-BMW Carbon Performance Spoiler-Akra Evolution-Stoptech Trophy

01-17-2012, 12:15 AM	#2
skins333 Captain Drives: '08 E93 BMW M3 MR/'12 x5d SG Join Date: May 2009 Location: Northern VA Posts: 826 iTrader: (2)	Pricing varies by region (and quality of the installer of course) but that's seems to be a very fair price...at least for the DC area, especially as it includes the area in the rear of the car. I'm assuming partial front fenders are included as well. It maybe worthwhile to spring for the entire hood and front fenders since you are doing more than the traditional "1/3 front" so you don't see any lines.

01-17-2012, 12:48 AM	#3
Envious Eric Banned Drives: nissan xterra, 335 soon Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: orange county, ca Posts: 1,171 iTrader: (1)	I'd do full front hood and fenders, and skip the rear. Look at a price increase to about 1200+ though, some places in so cal for that type of work (wrapping around edges, not cuting to them, removing emblems, not cutting around them, same with side markers, will be in the 2K range. Have to pay for quality up front, but its a one time thing instead of having to go back and redo things...whats your time worth? damage on M3's rear bumper is next to non unless tracking the car and getting sideways from time to time. At least out of the 50-60 that I have detailed in the last two years that is....

01-17-2012, 07:26 AM	#4
pro-tect mobile Private Drives: 2007 Jeep SRT-8 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 84 iTrader: (0)	A few things to look at when it comes to pricing. Type of material used... is it a good film. I recommend going with Avery Nano Fusion, Xpel Ultimate, or Ventureshield Ultra. I believe those to be the three best out ther and I carry all three films. Second is the quality of the installer. Check out his work and see how it looks. If you are happy with it, then go with him. There are a lot of variables when doing an install (custom cut versus pre-cut kit, wrpaped edges, removing emblems...) and all of these will increase the cost of the install. If you are happy with a precut kit and like how the shops work looks, then get it. If its a custom install then watch them install it. too many installers cut the paint during the install process and you wont know it until it has to be replaced... then they will deny it. The other is location. In a mrket where there are a lot of installers you will find some competitive pricing. Dont always go with the cheapest though... and surely dont always expect the most expensive to be the best. I have seem some shops here in Texas that charge over twice what I do and their work is not any good. I know it sounds like a lot (and hopefully this helped) but this is something you want to be knowledgable in before you get it. It will either make your experience a great one or you will be very unhappy with your clear bra. By doing a little homework upfront it will save you a lot of time and money. If you have any more questions let me know.

01-17-2012, 11:09 PM	#7
Martin_D Lieutenant Colonel Drives: Ford Super Duty Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 1,797 iTrader: (34)	Entire front end should be $1200-1500... -Full hood -Full fenders -Bumper -Headlights -Mirrors

01-18-2012, 10:49 AM	#12
Martin_D Lieutenant Colonel Drives: Ford Super Duty Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 1,797 iTrader: (34)	If it were me I would replace it every year. On every color they show age, even if they are polished and sealed weekly. The film always shows age. If the people tell you otherwise they are lying.

01-18-2012, 12:57 PM	#13
Poofyo101 Major Drives: e92 ///M3 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: NC Posts: 1,084 iTrader: (9) Garage List 2012 BMW M3 [0.00] 1998 BMW M3 [0.00] 1989 BMW M3 [0.00] 1990 BMW M3 [0.00]	Thanks Martin. __________________ 12 E92 M3-AW/FR-20" BBS LM-Painted Reflectors-BMW Gloss Black Grills + Gills-BMW Performance LED Wheel-BMW Carbon Performance Spoiler-Akra Evolution-Stoptech Trophy

01-19-2012, 12:22 AM	#17
Poofyo101 Major Drives: e92 ///M3 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: NC Posts: 1,084 iTrader: (9) Garage List 2012 BMW M3 [0.00] 1998 BMW M3 [0.00] 1989 BMW M3 [0.00] 1990 BMW M3 [0.00]	Martin, Spoke to auto shield and they also confirmed that film no matter on what color car will discolor over time. Usually it is just little discoloration but on certain colors such as AW it will show more. Have you continued to clear bra your cars? __________________ 12 E92 M3-AW/FR-20" BBS LM-Painted Reflectors-BMW Gloss Black Grills + Gills-BMW Performance LED Wheel-BMW Carbon Performance Spoiler-Akra Evolution-Stoptech Trophy

01-19-2012, 05:33 PM	#19
pro-tect mobile Private Drives: 2007 Jeep SRT-8 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 84 iTrader: (0)	I have pulled film off of cars that have been on there for 6 years before... and it looked brand new. I isntall film so I see it all the time... and have been in business myself for 10 years now. There are numerous films out there and all age differently. But not all of them yellow if properly maintained. The only film out there that should be polished is 3M. It has a topcoat designed for it.... other films do not. I install ventureshield Ultra, Avery Nano Fusion, and Xpel Ultimate and there is no need... in fact not recommend... polishing any of them. By the way the car with the film that was removed was due to it getting keyed on the hood. The person who did it didnt know the film was on the car so they go the film. The car sat in the sun daily but was maintained with Zaino. Looked as good as the day it was installed... I installed it. I also did some work the other day for a clinet that had 3M installed on their whote Volvo 17 years ago. The film still had not yellowed at all.... I have to say I was SHOCKED. Most film I have seen by 3M that has been instaleld for 6+ years has cracked and yellowed. But this was still in incredible shape. Would have taken a picture of it but I dont install 3M so it wouldnt do me any good.

01-19-2012, 09:08 PM	#21
BarryC Major Drives: '12 SG E92 M3 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Summerfield NC Posts: 1,025 iTrader: (8)	Hi all - my $0.02 is I had ventureshield on my JB 08 car and it looked like crap after year/year and a half. Had wear but no chips meaning no penetration but I thought it didn't look a lot better than not having film. So is ventureshield not a good product or is my experience similar to most film? BC __________________ 2013 Lime Rock M3, 2013 Boxster S

01-19-2012, 09:20 PM	#22
Martin_D Lieutenant Colonel Drives: Ford Super Duty Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 1,797 iTrader: (34)	Same as all Barry. Silvers and Greys hide it best but all film will change over time even with professional upkeep.

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