Driver side door locked and wont open!

[MojorisinM3]

My drivers side door is locked and will not open. The other doors are unlocked. The manual key works. I have comfort access. The fob cannot lock or unluck remote, the lights just flash.

Any ideas before I take a ride up to the dealer???

[gpitts]

Originally Posted by MojorisinM3

My drivers side door is locked and will not open. The other doors are unlocked. The manual key works. I have comfort access. The fob cannot lock or unluck remote, the lights just flash.

Any ideas before I take a ride up to the dealer???

It's a dealer matter IMO... probably the solenoid that fires the door lock, or something upstream of that.

[MojorisinM3]

Originally Posted by gpitts

It's a dealer matter IMO... probably the solenoid that fires the door lock, or something upstream of that.

yeah, you're probably right... thanks

[Foodle]

Or ...

[FVM3]

go to the dealer

[Mr. ///M3 RD]

Whatever you do don't stop at the fire station go directly to the dealer. Looking at the post from Foodle

Unless you like to play NASCAR driver.

[docbolo]

This is a door actuator problem. I had the same thing happen to me except all the doors were locked. I had to go dukes of hazard style into the car. The solution I used was to change the 15 amp fuse to a 20 amp according to this thread: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454441

worked like a charm. Brought to dealer recently and told them about it in case they need to change actuator or something and they told me that I did exactly what they would have done!

Save yourself trip to dealer. buy a fuse.

[crabman]

Originally Posted by docbolo

This is a door actuator problem. I had the same thing happen to me except all the doors were locked. I had to go dukes of hazard style into the car. The solution I used was to change the 15 amp fuse to a 20 amp according to this thread: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454441

worked like a charm. Brought to dealer recently and told them about it in case they need to change actuator or something and they told me that I did exactly what they would have done!

Save yourself trip to dealer. buy a fuse.

Interesting. Making a little yellow mental sticky note on this one.

[goldminer]

Originally Posted by docbolo

This is a door actuator problem. I had the same thing happen to me except all the doors were locked. I had to go dukes of hazard style into the car. The solution I used was to change the 15 amp fuse to a 20 amp according to this thread: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454441

worked like a charm. Brought to dealer recently and told them about it in case they need to change actuator or something and they told me that I did exactly what they would have done!

Save yourself trip to dealer. buy a fuse.

The owners manual says "Never attempt to repair a blown fuse and do not replace a defective fuse with a substitute of another color or amperage rating, otherwise this could lead to a circuit overload, ultimately resulting in a fire in the vehicle."

Why would the dealer recommend that?

[docbolo]

Originally Posted by goldminer

The owners manual says "Never attempt to repair a blown fuse and do not replace a defective fuse with a substitute of another color or amperage rating, otherwise this could lead to a circuit overload, ultimately resulting in a fire in the vehicle."

Why would the dealer recommend that?

The dealer DID NOT recommend it dude. I told him that I fixed it myself (I thought it was a temp fix) and the SA's words were: "That's exactly what we have been doing to fix it, so no further repair is necessary"

[goldminer]

Originally Posted by docbolo

The dealer DID NOT recommend it dude. I told him that I fixed it myself (I thought it was a temp fix) and the SA's words were: "That's exactly what we have been doing to fix it, so no further repair is necessary"

"Exactly what they would have done" or "exactly what we have been doing" sure sound like recommendations to me.

[docbolo]

Originally Posted by goldminer

"Exactly what they would have done" or "exactly what we have been doing" sure sound like recommendations to me.

The word "recommend" came from your mouth not mine. Read my original post.

I'm just recounting what happened to me and how I fixed it. aka trying to help.

[BMW Fanatic]

You need a new actuator. Heck I'm pretty sure you're gonna need a new door. Maybe even a new passenger door. And a sunroof even if you don't have one.

[goldminer]

Originally Posted by docbolo

The word "recommend" came from your mouth not mine. Read my original post.

I'm just recounting what happened to me and how I fixed it. aka trying to help.

How on earth could "exactly what they would have done" or "exactly what we have been doing" be taken as anything other than a recommendation despite the fact that you the word didn't appear in your post?

And doing something which is specifically proscribed by the manual (i.e. might cause a fire) doesn't sound all that helpful.

[MojorisinM3]

it was a fuse lol

[auggiem3]

I have the same problem. I replaced the fuse associated with my door locks (different than other quoted fuse numbers since I'm an August '08 production I received a different fuse layout).

I checked to confirm that the fuse map was correct (ie. i pulled the 5 amp for the fuel door and it turned off, then i pulled the 15 amp driver door and, again, no lock function). I replaced the 15 amp passenger door with a 20 amp and absolutely nothing happened.

Unless someone has a new idea, I'm headed to the stealership for an out of warranty (I'm 4k miles or 78 days out of warranty) door actuator repair - any idea on cost?

Thanks in advance!

[mosx]

If all your door locks don't work replace the fuse. If one of your door locks doesn't work replace the lock actuator in the door. This just happened to me, 10 days before my warranty ended. Cost to replace out of warranty? About $600. You can buy the actuator online for about $170 and replace it yourself in an hour or two though. Its not difficult.

[Top_Gear]

Originally Posted by mosx

If all your door locks don't work replace the fuse.

I am also 3 months out of warranty and just noticed for the first time today that it took several thumb presses on my remote key to lock the car doors after I parked the car and then several more clicks again to unlock it when I returned. It's as if the automatic lock/unlock feature on the remote key became sluggish or uncooperative for some unknown reason.

If the fuse is burned out then the locking feature shouldn't work at all right? I am wondering if my problem is fuse-related or something else. This is happening with both of my keys and the sluggish response in locking/unlocking applies to all door locks.

Anybody have any tips on this?

[Lerxst M3]

Originally Posted by Top_Gear

I am also 3 months out of warranty and just noticed for the first time today that it took several thumb presses on my remote key to lock the car doors after I parked the car and then several more clicks again to unlock it when I returned. It's as if the automatic lock/unlock feature on the remote key became sluggish or uncooperative for some unknown reason.

If the fuse is burned out then the locking feature shouldn't work at all right? I am wondering if my problem is fuse-related or something else. This is happening with both of my keys and the sluggish response in locking/unlocking applies to all door locks.

Anybody have any tips on this?

I was having this exact same issue (fuse would blow every 3 months-ish). Dealer replaced the door lock motor in my drivers door saying it was over amping. Got this done with a couple other things about a month ago.

I am CPO and it was covered on my 08 w/ 55K.

[BMWrules7]

Originally Posted by docbolo

The word "recommend" came from your mouth not mine. Read my original post.

I'm just recounting what happened to me and how I fixed it. aka trying to help.

Well, I would say the dealer did not object to your increasing the rating on the fuse.

However, the dealer should have objected---vehemently.

Why? It's a well known fact that as electric motors or solenoids fail they consume more power.

Unless BMW failed to provide the proper fuse at the factory, the fuse should be replaced with its original rating and the locking mechanism repaired. Otherwise, you risk an increased potential for fire.

[mosx]

Originally Posted by Top_Gear

I am also 3 months out of warranty and just noticed for the first time today that it took several thumb presses on my remote key to lock the car doors after I parked the car and then several more clicks again to unlock it when I returned. It's as if the automatic lock/unlock feature on the remote key became sluggish or uncooperative for some unknown reason.

If the fuse is burned out then the locking feature shouldn't work at all right? I am wondering if my problem is fuse-related or something else. This is happening with both of my keys and the sluggish response in locking/unlocking applies to all door locks.

Anybody have any tips on this?

Do you have comfort access? If you do then replace the battery in your key fob. If you dont then leave your key in the key slot for an extended drive to recharge the battery.

If the fuse is blown it wont work at all.

[uplusd]

its probably a door lock actuator.. i've had to replace two on my lexus, they stop working eventually