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      09-30-2011, 08:53 PM   #1
VictorH
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M24 Oil Cooler installation

Living in the Southeast has is pluses and minuses. There are lots of tracks around here but it's also really hot in the summer. As everyone knows our cars run pretty hot when it's above 90-95F and it's not too hard to get into limp mode. Since I plan to keep my car for a long time, and it gets regular track use, I thought it would be worthwhile to add some additional oil cooling capacity. IND is the first company I've seen to offer an E9x M3 specific oil cooler for our cars and their reputation is excellent as well. Yes, it's expensive but like they say, "Pay for quality and cry once."

One thing worth clarifying is how effective the cooler is. On the M24 web-site they say (in German) it's worth a 10C reduction in oil temperatures. I think there's been a slight boo boo in what IND has quoted as the temperature reduction of this oil cooler. If you look at a Celsius and Fahrenheit scale you'll see a delta of 10C is 18 degrees on the Fahrenheit scale, i.e. on average you'll see a 18 degree reduction in oil temps.

I've already started the disassembly of my car and will post up photos of the install as I go along. The whole install does not look to be very difficult at all. Bumper removal is easier than I thought it would be and the lower cover/ducting is pretty easy too (I've removed that one before to get all the sand out that it accumulates). Pics of oil cooler below, more install photos and description to follow. I'll probably do an power steering fluid change as well but will detail that in another post.

Apologies for the photos as I'm on a Mac and don't have the software nor the know how as to how to reduce the image size.
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      09-30-2011, 08:54 PM   #2
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So it turns out taking off the bumper is really pretty easy, even for one person. Just remove the 4 torx across the top just above the grills, remove the 7, seven mm screws across the bottom, then I just removed the whole forward front wheel liners on each side so I could see what I'm doing (you'll need to remove the wires for the TPMS on each side and pull the whole thing out). You then have access to the two 7 mm flange screws on each side where the bumper meets the front fender. Bend the outside edges on both sides around the headlights and pull the whole bumper off. The remove the lower engine cover by removing the two wire holders on each side (turn the fitting 90 degrees then slide toward the front of the car and it pops out of the fitting)
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      09-30-2011, 08:54 PM   #3
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The next part is even easier. Loosen the two passenger side and one driver side oil cooler mount screws (Torx 45). Loosen the two oil cooler lines, one on each side with a 10 mm box end wrench. Have a couple of drain pans handy and then remove the nuts and pull the lines. I let the lines drain overnight and they drained less than 1/2 quart combined. Remove the 3 Torx you loosened and let the oil cooler rest on the plastic shroud. When you are ready tip the oil cooler up on either the drivers or passenger side so it's tilted and then pull it out the bottom of the car. Be prepared for a bit more oil to come out of the cooler. Remove the metal grommet inserts (3) from each side and then remove the rubber grommets and transfer them to the new oil cooler. lnstall the metal grommet inserts in the new cooler and then raise the cooler diagonally back up into the oil cooler location then level it off and install the three Torx screws. Moisten the inside of the oil cooler line fitting area with a little oil on your finger and then install the oil lines on the left and right. They'll take just a little wiggling but they'll go on flush. Put the 10 mm nuts on the oil cooler line brackets and tighten. Be reasonable with tightening these things, they are not very tight from the factory (maybe 10 ft lb) but make sure they are good and snug. Double check these as you don't want to have trouble later on. You're almost done now. Add one liter of oil to start (I'll have a better idea of the exact amount tomorrow) but if you're full you should be close. I plan to let the car idle for 15 min until I can get an oil level reading. Reassembly is the reverse of the above. The only part I had trouble on was putting the lower engine cover (the big black one) back on. I think the bigger oil cooler changes the fitment and though I got all the screw holes to line up with some cajoling I think this is the only part that takes a bit extra time to get right.
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      10-01-2011, 09:45 AM   #4
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Had mine installed on wednesday. Was really easy and fit like a glove. On track on Monday so will monitor temps then but definitely looks the part. Good luck on install and happy motoring
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      10-01-2011, 10:33 AM   #5
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      10-01-2011, 12:51 PM   #6
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It's all in. Easy install probably a 2/10 in terms of difficulty. My guess is that it's easily less than 2 hour install, I'm just slow because I have to clean and check everything three times. I'll post photos tonight. I'm going try and tackle the power steering fluid change now which I think is going to be bit more complicated only because it's harder to reach those lines. The most challenging part is the install of the lower engine cowl. It fits more tightly and the opening for the air exit needs to have the rubber seal placed under (not behind) the oil cooler or else you'll never get the lower bumper mounting screws to line up.
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      10-01-2011, 01:05 PM   #7
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Nice! Looking forward to hearing your track impressions. It sure looks like a great part.
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      10-01-2011, 01:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorH View Post
I'm going try and tackle the power steering fluid change now
How many miles on your car? Brake and PS fluids are often neglected, but with Pentosin CHF-11S, which is probably the best PS fluid around, you don't have to change it that often. I was thinking of just sucking the reservoir and replenish it every 10K miles or so (9K now), therefore always having semi-fresh fluid in there, and avoiding a full flush, which is a PITA, as you'll find out soon . But if you waited until a gazillion miles, then there's no other logical choice. Good luck.
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      10-01-2011, 02:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elp_jc View Post
How many miles on your car? Brake and PS fluids are often neglected, but with Pentosin CHF-11S, which is probably the best PS fluid around, you don't have to change it that often. I was thinking of just sucking the reservoir and replenish it every 10K miles or so (9K now), therefore always having semi-fresh fluid in there, and avoiding a full flush, which is a PITA, as you'll find out soon . But if you waited until a gazillion miles, then there's no other logical choice. Good luck.

See the DYI section, you'll see I'm not off to a good start.
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      10-02-2011, 09:50 AM   #10
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Great write up Victor! We'll see direct temp diffs between you and I at Oktoberfest.
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      10-02-2011, 10:51 AM   #11
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I'll post some finish up pictures here a bit later as well as the oil amount for the cooler. Overall not hard, the only challenge is the lower engine cover which has the oil cooler air exit, it gets stretched a bit but all the original hardware still fits. New track pads going on now. Looking forward to O'Fest too, probably cool AM temps and nice afternoons.

Okay all set. Additional oil needed was 1 1/2 liters of oil plus or minus the accuracy of the oil level gauge which I'm going to estimate is 1/4 L or so, so that gets you in the ball park. Last photos of things being buttoned up here.
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      10-02-2011, 01:00 PM   #12
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Okay, all done. If you have any questions happy to answer here or you can contact IND, the supplier of the cooler.

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      10-02-2011, 01:15 PM   #13
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Nice job Victor. Have fun at Oktoberfest and let us know how this works out.
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      10-03-2011, 01:51 AM   #14
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Looking forward to your impressions on the track.
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      10-04-2011, 08:43 PM   #15
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Klammer, what's your report from the track?
I'll be on the track next week Wednesday.

Just driving around today I can tell the cooler is probably going to be much more efficient. When the thermostat opens which appears to be when the needle is just past the mark for 210F it must open because the temp then drops pretty quickly to below the mark. Not really any test, but I never noticed the stock cooler doing that.

Also, I'll repeat what others have said, the electronic oil temp sensor really BITES!! Sunday and Monday, oil level after adding 1.5 L after the change over oil level is exactly as it was prior to the install (with two oil level resets). Today, all day long, until about 8PM tonight I get the >MAX oil level and "check with your BMW dealer" warning. I'm like "What's going on?" Reset oil level system 3 times and says the same thing. Then tonight at 8P on way home it decide it's now 1 bar less than full and confirmed on reset. Dipstick sure would make things simpler.
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      10-04-2011, 11:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorH View Post
Also, I'll repeat what others have said, the electronic oil temp sensor really BITES!! Sunday and Monday, oil level after adding 1.5 L after the change over oil level is exactly as it was prior to the install (with two oil level resets). Today, all day long, until about 8PM tonight I get the >MAX oil level and "check with your BMW dealer" warning. I'm like "What's going on?" Reset oil level system 3 times and says the same thing. Then tonight at 8P on way home it decide it's now 1 bar less than full and confirmed on reset. Dipstick sure would make things simpler.
I would pay $1000 for a dipstick mod. Seriously.
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      10-04-2011, 11:39 PM   #17
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I just got my car back lastnight!


and I did a couple of cooling upgrades

radiator M24
thermostat M24
oil cooler M24

and since I did corner balance my car yet I wasn't pushing it hard.

but you can notice the oil temp was struggling to get where is used to be.

again sad part is no real numbers but you feel and see the needle act in a different way.

I'll try and see if I can get some logging tools.
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      10-05-2011, 06:17 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Eugene-TAIWAN View Post
I just got my car back lastnight!


and I did a couple of cooling upgrades

radiator M24
thermostat M24
oil cooler M24

and since I did corner balance my car yet I wasn't pushing it hard.

but you can notice the oil temp was struggling to get where is used to be.

again sad part is no real numbers but you feel and see the needle act in a different way.

I'll try and see if I can get some logging tools.
when you say feel and act in a different way is it good or bad?
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      10-05-2011, 06:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
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when you say feel and act in a different way is it good or bad?
very good way! because you see my car is running the YSI and the it use the same oil from the engine.

so what this means is that the stock oil cooler needs to cool down the oil from the car and the supercharger!

but now with the upgrade you can clearly see that the oil takes a lot more effort to get it over the 100-110C mark and it takes almost no time for the oil temp to drop back down to 98-100C
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      10-05-2011, 06:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eugene-TAIWAN View Post
very good way! because you see my car is running the YSI and the it use the same oil from the engine.

so what this means is that the stock oil cooler needs to cool down the oil from the car and the supercharger!

but now with the upgrade you can clearly see that the oil takes a lot more effort to get it over the 100-110C mark and it takes almost no time for the oil temp to drop back down to 98-100C
thanks Eugene hmm i may have to do this now.
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      10-05-2011, 07:00 AM   #21
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Quote:
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thanks Eugene hmm i may have to do this now.
why? the HKS charger also shares the same oil from the engine?


I would wait a bit to see if there are more options from USA vendors.

the oil cooler is not cheap at all
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      10-05-2011, 09:28 AM   #22
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Quote:
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why? the HKS charger also shares the same oil from the engine?


I would wait a bit to see if there are more options from USA vendors.

the oil cooler is not cheap at all
no it doesn't share the same oil from the engine. yea i was gonna wait till at least next year.
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