Changing/flushing power steering fluid

VictorH · 10-01-2011, 02:03 PM

I have 30,000 miles on my M3 and plan on keeping her a long time, so I thought I'd change the power steering fluid. The car has been in the track and has boiled the fluid a couple of times. This is my daily driver so I'm pretty meticulous about having all the correct parts and pieces around for any work so that I don't end up stranded with a car that won't run sitting in my garage.

ONE CAUTION: I had to go to the dealer 3 times to get the two crush washers for the hose fitting to the upper power steering pump line. It's the smaller of the two and requires a 19mm socket to loosen. Guess what? The upper crush washer and the lower one (the one that sits on the steering rack) are two different sizes. The lower one is the larger of the two and the one for the top of the banjo bolt is the smaller one. Of course what I ended up with were two lower washers.

So the plan of draining, filling and draining one more time is out the window. I can't risk removing the fitting two times since I don't have a replacement upper washer. I'm just hoping it doesn't leak when I put it back together. Hope I have good karma today. I'll post pictures tonight.

Really it's not too hard. Just need to remove the lower front cowl (the black one) and the aluminum lower pan/engine cover. First drain the fluid out of the reservoir then take a 19 mm socket on a really short extension. My shortest standard extension was too long so a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter with matching socket was just the right length. Loosen the 10 mm power steering fluid line bracket which is about 8" or so from the terminus at the rack which allows you to move the line away from the rack. Have your drain pan handy and loosen the 19 mm bolt on the upper power steering rack line. It will start leaking immediately and drain down the aluminum suspension mount channel in various locations but mostly under the steering rack. Turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple times and more fluid will come out. DO NOT START THE CAR. Clean up your washers for the banjo bolt as below or replace with new and then refill your reservoir. Fill the reservoir full, then start the car and let it run for 30 seconds. You'll notice the fluid is a bit foamy, but settles down in a few minutes and then refill to full. Restart the car and let it run a few minutes, turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple times. Check for leaks at the fitting you just tightened and check you reservoir level again. Refill as needed and you should be done. Ideally you would do this procedure one more time to really get a good rinse but I didn't want to risk it with one old washer and one new one. After you are all done you will still probably have power steering fluid dripping from various areas. Don't freak, it's left over from the drain. Just do your best to get as much as you can (you can't reach all of the areas where the fluid runs) but get as much as you can and realize you'll still probably have some drips later.

elp_jc · 10-01-2011, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VictorH

So the plan of draining, filling and draining one more time is out the window.

Do you get defeated that easily

? You can even use the original washers man; just sand them smooth with 400-grit sandpaper

. But since you already bought new ones, just install the new ones but don't torque them to spec until final installation. They won't leak, or hardly anything. And if the washers were marked a little, it'd take you a few seconds to sand them smooth. I've done this a ton of times, and never a leak, since they're as smooth as new. I wouldn't sand them 3 times, but once won't make any difference whatsoever. Good luck man. And consider this the good karma you hoped for

.

VictorH · 10-01-2011, 06:46 PM

Agree with your approach, the problem though is with the upper crush washer which is just under the bolt head, it's on really tight and to get it off you'd risk bending the washer. With the lower washer which drops into the oil pan, no sweat.

Check what fluid type you need in your reservoir as some 2008s use a different fluid. I used almost a full liter. No leaks!

elp_jc · 10-02-2011, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VictorH

Check what fluid type you need in your reservoir as some 2008s use a different fluid.

My 06/08 build '08 has CHF-11S prominently displayed in green, so no doubt

. Bought some because level was a bit low, and dealer never topped it off because it was between marks. But what a PITA with that stupid cap with a tube in the can; made a mess when the stupid thing gulped air, throwing fluid everywhere

. Next time will pour it into a container, then into the reservoir.

MMME30W · 03-11-2012, 05:00 PM

I have an 09 M3, E92. P/S fluid cap also says CHF 115 fluid.

I used to change the P/S fluid via the turkey baster DIY method in my e46. I assume that also goes for an E9x?

(Turkey Baster DIY: Suck all P/S fluid of the reservoir you can with a Turkey Baster. Refill reservoir with new fluid. Start car. Turn wheel lock to lock 1X. Repeat twice more.)

VictorH · 03-13-2012, 06:10 PM

Yes, that's certainly an option. Though I think the Roundel tech guy says you should probably change 4-5 times if you just drain the reservoir and refill. By my method with pulling off a hose and draining the whole thing you are supposed to drain and refill twice to get everything. Either way is probably a bit excessive as long as you change on some sort of regular frequency.

MMME30W · 03-14-2012, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VictorH

Yes, that's certainly an option. Though I think the Roundel tech guy says you should probably change 4-5 times if you just drain the reservoir and refill. By my method with pulling off a hose and draining the whole thing you are supposed to drain and refill twice to get everything. Either way is probably a bit excessive as long as you change on some sort of regular frequency.

Ok, makes sense, thanks.

elm3 · 07-30-2012, 05:23 PM

Sorry to revive this thread. When you measure the fluid, do you use the first line on the cap or the second? I think mine is a bit low. I also measured the fluid right after I turned off the engine. Thanks for the help guys.

Eric

pbonsalb · 07-30-2012, 05:47 PM

I just did this and the instructions are great. I skipped the step about undoing the 10 mm bolt for the bracket for the lines since the lines don't need to be pulled back to drain the fluid from the rack. You do have to watch for the aluminum crush rings on the rack side of the banjo bolts (one on the bolt side and one on the rack side for each of the two banjo bolts).

I had no trouble with the fluid bottle gulping. I poured slowly. After the initial fill, I started the engine and the reservoir drained into the rack and I refilled it. It will be foamy for a little while, but no big deal.

My original fluid came out tan colored. The fluid that went in was green.

akina335 · 03-04-2013, 11:45 AM

No one has really mentioned where the fluid level should be. Can someone answer this? I want to do this to my car.

W/// · 03-07-2013, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akina335

No one has really mentioned where the fluid level should be. Can someone answer this? I want to do this to my car.

The cap is essentially the dip stick. You'll see 2 lines across.

VictorH · 03-07-2013, 09:30 PM

If you track your car a lot you'll want to keep the fluid level at the bottom line and if it's a daily with no track use then go ahead and fill it to the top. The only time I've had the problem with spraying out the vent hole is when I've had my steering fluid reservoir filled to the top, and it's not temperature dependent, last spitting episode was in December after a dealer service, when they topped off the fluid.

Millie · 05-12-2013, 09:03 PM

Went autoxing today and it looked like the PS fluid vented over half the engine, thought it was a leak at first. Is this normal or should I remove some via turkey baster? I don't want that crap splashing all over the place every event.

WarrantyTracker · 05-17-2013, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Millie

Went autoxing today and it looked like the PS fluid vented over half the engine, thought it was a leak at first. Is this normal or should I remove some via turkey baster? I don't want that crap splashing all over the place every event.

Common problem. Check the Track forum for a thread. Two options. Replace the res (part numbers in the thread) or zip-tie a section of sweat sock over the lid.

10-01-2011, 02:03 PM	#1
VictorH Lieutenant Drives: '09 M3 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: SC Posts: 546 iTrader: (1)	Changing/flushing power steering fluid I have 30,000 miles on my M3 and plan on keeping her a long time, so I thought I'd change the power steering fluid. The car has been in the track and has boiled the fluid a couple of times. This is my daily driver so I'm pretty meticulous about having all the correct parts and pieces around for any work so that I don't end up stranded with a car that won't run sitting in my garage. ONE CAUTION: I had to go to the dealer 3 times to get the two crush washers for the hose fitting to the upper power steering pump line. It's the smaller of the two and requires a 19mm socket to loosen. Guess what? The upper crush washer and the lower one (the one that sits on the steering rack) are two different sizes. The lower one is the larger of the two and the one for the top of the banjo bolt is the smaller one. Of course what I ended up with were two lower washers. So the plan of draining, filling and draining one more time is out the window. I can't risk removing the fitting two times since I don't have a replacement upper washer. I'm just hoping it doesn't leak when I put it back together. Hope I have good karma today. I'll post pictures tonight. Really it's not too hard. Just need to remove the lower front cowl (the black one) and the aluminum lower pan/engine cover. First drain the fluid out of the reservoir then take a 19 mm socket on a really short extension. My shortest standard extension was too long so a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter with matching socket was just the right length. Loosen the 10 mm power steering fluid line bracket which is about 8" or so from the terminus at the rack which allows you to move the line away from the rack. Have your drain pan handy and loosen the 19 mm bolt on the upper power steering rack line. It will start leaking immediately and drain down the aluminum suspension mount channel in various locations but mostly under the steering rack. Turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple times and more fluid will come out. DO NOT START THE CAR. Clean up your washers for the banjo bolt as below or replace with new and then refill your reservoir. Fill the reservoir full, then start the car and let it run for 30 seconds. You'll notice the fluid is a bit foamy, but settles down in a few minutes and then refill to full. Restart the car and let it run a few minutes, turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple times. Check for leaks at the fitting you just tightened and check you reservoir level again. Refill as needed and you should be done. Ideally you would do this procedure one more time to really get a good rinse but I didn't want to risk it with one old washer and one new one. After you are all done you will still probably have power steering fluid dripping from various areas. Don't freak, it's left over from the drain. Just do your best to get as much as you can (you can't reach all of the areas where the fluid runs) but get as much as you can and realize you'll still probably have some drips later. Attached Images Last edited by VictorH; 10-01-2011 at 07:04 PM.
	Tweet

10-01-2011, 06:46 PM	#3
VictorH Lieutenant Drives: '09 M3 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: SC Posts: 546 iTrader: (1)	Agree with your approach, the problem though is with the upper crush washer which is just under the bolt head, it's on really tight and to get it off you'd risk bending the washer. With the lower washer which drops into the oil pan, no sweat. Check what fluid type you need in your reservoir as some 2008s use a different fluid. I used almost a full liter. No leaks! Attached Images Last edited by VictorH; 10-01-2011 at 07:10 PM.

07-30-2012, 05:23 PM	#8
elm3 M3 Lover Drives: 2009 e92 M3 Interlagos Blue Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Canton, GA. Posts: 1,660 iTrader: (1) Garage List 2009 E92 M3 [5.00] 2002 Nissan Xterra ... [0.50] 2004 Yamaha R1 [0.00]	Sorry to revive this thread. When you measure the fluid, do you use the first line on the cap or the second? I think mine is a bit low. I also measured the fluid right after I turned off the engine. Thanks for the help guys. Eric __________________ '09 E92 ///M3 Interlagos Blue, 6MT, Silver Novillo Leather, CF Trim, Premium Package, Technology Package, Cold Weather Package, Premium Sound, 19" Wheels, Moonroof-Toy//'02 Nissan Xterra- Daily Driver/ '04 Yamaha R1- Toy/'06Yamaha Raptor 350- Toy

07-30-2012, 05:47 PM	#9
pbonsalb Major Drives: 08 E90 M3, 99 E36 M3 Turbo Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Concord, NH Posts: 1,171 iTrader: (3)	I just did this and the instructions are great. I skipped the step about undoing the 10 mm bolt for the bracket for the lines since the lines don't need to be pulled back to drain the fluid from the rack. You do have to watch for the aluminum crush rings on the rack side of the banjo bolts (one on the bolt side and one on the rack side for each of the two banjo bolts). I had no trouble with the fluid bottle gulping. I poured slowly. After the initial fill, I started the engine and the reservoir drained into the rack and I refilled it. It will be foamy for a little while, but no big deal. My original fluid came out tan colored. The fluid that went in was green. Last edited by pbonsalb; 08-16-2012 at 08:12 PM.

03-04-2013, 11:45 AM	#10
akina335 Second Lieutenant Drives: a car Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: CA Posts: 257 iTrader: (2)	No one has really mentioned where the fluid level should be. Can someone answer this? I want to do this to my car. __________________

03-11-2012, 05:00 PM	#5
MMME30W Riff Raff Refugee Drives: Civic Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Atlanta Posts: 600 iTrader: (1)	I have an 09 M3, E92. P/S fluid cap also says CHF 115 fluid. I used to change the P/S fluid via the turkey baster DIY method in my e46. I assume that also goes for an E9x? (Turkey Baster DIY: Suck all P/S fluid of the reservoir you can with a Turkey Baster. Refill reservoir with new fluid. Start car. Turn wheel lock to lock 1X. Repeat twice more.)

03-13-2012, 06:10 PM	#6
VictorH Lieutenant Drives: '09 M3 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: SC Posts: 546 iTrader: (1)	Yes, that's certainly an option. Though I think the Roundel tech guy says you should probably change 4-5 times if you just drain the reservoir and refill. By my method with pulling off a hose and draining the whole thing you are supposed to drain and refill twice to get everything. Either way is probably a bit excessive as long as you change on some sort of regular frequency.

03-07-2013, 09:30 PM	#12
VictorH Lieutenant Drives: '09 M3 Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: SC Posts: 546 iTrader: (1)	If you track your car a lot you'll want to keep the fluid level at the bottom line and if it's a daily with no track use then go ahead and fill it to the top. The only time I've had the problem with spraying out the vent hole is when I've had my steering fluid reservoir filled to the top, and it's not temperature dependent, last spitting episode was in December after a dealer service, when they topped off the fluid.

05-12-2013, 09:03 PM	#13
Millie Private Drives: Subaru Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Alberta Posts: 57 iTrader: (0)	Went autoxing today and it looked like the PS fluid vented over half the engine, thought it was a leak at first. Is this normal or should I remove some via turkey baster? I don't want that crap splashing all over the place every event. __________________ Found a E92 M3!

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search