pad transfer and making popcorn?

[1MOREMOD]

2 questions. number one i have a significant amount of pad transfer on my front rotors. will spraying brake cleaner on them help with speed of removal as i have another track day shortly and dont want the wheel to shake as it is now because of the buildup. number 2 it sounds like i have a rock in my rear brakes as it sounds like im making popcorn when i go very slow 1-5mph in forward or reverse. how do i get that sucker out.

[Erhan]

I'm confused... I thought you want to transfer pad material to the rotor... isn't that what bedding-in is?

I don't know how you fix your second problem. But it is not called popcorn noise, it is referred as cow bell noise. There are couple threads in the general forum, do a search.

[1MOREMOD]

Okay I want less cow bell then. If you overheat the brakes and get a bunch of pad material on the rotors it causes a shudder on braking and has to be cleared so they perform properly again.

[r53s65e90]

Here is something that made sense to me. Haven't tried it.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_padremoval.shtml

[elh0102]

The article from StopTech is right on. I don't remove track pads until I get home from the track. The trip home with the more abbrasive pads is enough to clean the rotors, and they then accept the street pads without issue. To the OP, if you are getting substantially uneven deposits, it sounds like you are overheating the pad. I don't believe you mentioned the type of track pad you are using, but you may need something more aggressive.

Regarding the noise in the rear. It could be just what it sounds like, and small rock could be caught between the shield and rotor. If so, just push the shield out a little with a screwdriver and see if anything falls out. The cowbell noise, in my experience, was an issue with the e-brake.

[1MOREMOD]

I'm on stock pads and did overheat moreso than my last track day. In the past a fouple days of driving was all that was required to clear the deposits.

[1MOREMOD]

Okay just trying to get it to clear before my next track day in a week. I'm gonna try some harder stops over the next week, just a couple each time I drive and speed up the process hopefully. Getting new pads and rotors shortly under warranty so will run them until time for another pad change.

[ring007]

buy yourself a tub of the presoaked windex towels/rags from your favorite store and wipe down the rotors. Works every time for me when I've ended the track day with "shutter" to remove the excess deposits.

[1MOREMOD]

okay windex that was the trick i was looking for. tried to find a rock in my wheel to eliminate the cow bell and wasnt one that i could see.

[persian54]

Originally Posted by chriszeh

okay windex that was the trick i was looking for. tried to find a rock in my wheel to eliminate the cow bell and wasnt one that i could see.

Report back once you do it please

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by persian54

Report back once you do it please

okay plan on trying tomorrow.

[sc_tr0jan_m3]

trying to remove judder with the same pad won't do you any good. you're going to need something more abrasive. either that or wait for awhile for the vibrations to go away eventually. i used to experience that with ferrodo pads and i tossed them because the deposits were so awful and the vibration shook the whole car.

i went to pfc zrated for the street and pfc01's for the track and couldn't be happier. they're compatible compounds so you barely have any issues with deposits when switching between the pads. i probably felt just a little judder for 2 laps, then the pfc01's were bedded in. likewise on the drive home... i kept the pfc01's on to scrub off any deposits, and the zrated pads went on when i got home. no issues, no fussing.

[1MOREMOD]

Originally Posted by sc_tr0jan_m3

trying to remove judder with the same pad won't do you any good.

sure it will. given enough braking and time i can remove my entire rotor surface until it isnt within spec so i can certainly remove deposits from a single day at the track. the deposits occur when the pad and rotor are both heated to a range way outside what i will ever see on the street. this is what causes the deposit or pad transfer in the first place. its removed again with normal braking. what i dont want to do is do a bunch of stops in a row simulating track braking as i will just incur more deposits, thus i am gradually wearing those said deposits down with varied routine braking at more normal speeds.

[LiM3y]

Originally Posted by sc_tr0jan_m3

trying to remove judder with the same pad won't do you any good. you're going to need something more abrasive. either that or wait for awhile for the vibrations to go away eventually. i used to experience that with ferrodo pads and i tossed them because the deposits were so awful and the vibration shook the whole car.

i went to pfc zrated for the street and pfc01's for the track and couldn't be happier. they're compatible compounds so you barely have any issues with deposits when switching between the pads. i probably felt just a little judder for 2 laps, then the pfc01's were bedded in. likewise on the drive home... i kept the pfc01's on to scrub off any deposits, and the zrated pads went on when i got home. no issues, no fussing.

Well...you tried!

[dawgdog]

I had this issue with my stock rotors and the first few times the shudder went away after normal driving for a while. The last time it never did and I ditched the rotors and put on a BBK.

[1MOREMOD]

Thanks don't like to hear that. Its close to time for new rotors and pads anyway.

[1MOREMOD]

i pulled the fronts this morning and wiped down the rotor surface really well with windex. seems to have removed a lot. i think the fact that my front tires have a huge amount of pick up on them as well is contributing to the shudder. havent went out for a drive yet but will today. hope its a little better.

[1MOREMOD]

fyi windex is no help. thinking i may have slightly warped my rotors last time out. getting new ones under warranty around christmas time thankfully.