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      08-17-2011, 11:14 PM   #1
R0ut3r
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Finally happy with audio... what I did, and some thanks

Hi all,

For those that have followed my (mis)adventures to get the sound I wanted in my car... here is the final scoop:

A-I'm extremely happy with the whole setup.

B-What I got in the end: Since I have the HiFi Premium/Individual Series Audio I kept the speakers and OEM amp but changed the following:

- 2x SWS 8X (4-Ohm) subs to replace OEM subs. Installed using jtsherri spacers.
- 1x Alpine PDX-F4 amp. It's setup to push 2 bridged (stereo subs) channels.
- 1x AudioControl LC2I unit + perfectly designed harness courtesy of Technic

The settings on the Alpine = no pass (let the OEM amp do its filtering), gain set to minimum.

Settings on the LC2I unit, 10% of the Accubass knob on, 45% of the Bass channel volume on.

C-Thanks to Jtsherri for making and shipping the spacers for me. Very big thanks to Technic who was patient enough to help me regardless of the initial mistake I made (my BMW adivsor told me I had the Logic7 system so I bought and installed BSW stage-1 speakers which are the wrong resistance (2Ohm instead of the necessary 4 Ohm))...

In regards to EQ settings... everything is set to default and it sounds perfect. No need for any fiddling anymore.

The only thing that could go a little better is if the LC2i could auto-detect remote on its own. Having to run a remote from the front of the car was a huge waste of time (and I want to cry everytime panels are opened as this leads to rattle sounds...).

Thanks again to all... now on to mechanical mods... Fabspeed X-pipe and catless pipes received and ready to install... ESS VT1-535 after that.
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      08-18-2011, 02:36 AM   #2
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2011 BMW e92 M3  [4.55]
Nice.

Any pics?
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      08-18-2011, 06:40 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R0ut3r View Post
Hi all,

For those that have followed my (mis)adventures to get the sound I wanted in my car... here is the final scoop:

A-I'm extremely happy with the whole setup.

B-What I got in the end: Since I have the HiFi Premium/Individual Series Audio I kept the speakers and OEM amp but changed the following:

- 2x SWS 8X (4-Ohm) subs to replace OEM subs. Installed using jtsherri spacers.
- 1x Alpine PDX-F4 amp. It's setup to push 2 bridged (stereo subs) channels.
- 1x AudioControl LC2I unit + perfectly designed harness courtesy of Technic

The settings on the Alpine = no pass (let the OEM amp do its filtering), gain set to minimum.

Settings on the LC2I unit, 10% of the Accubass knob on, 45% of the Bass channel volume on.

C-Thanks to Jtsherri for making and shipping the spacers for me. Very big thanks to Technic who was patient enough to help me regardless of the initial mistake I made (my BMW adivsor told me I had the Logic7 system so I bought and installed BSW stage-1 speakers which are the wrong resistance (2Ohm instead of the necessary 4 Ohm))...

In regards to EQ settings... everything is set to default and it sounds perfect. No need for any fiddling anymore.

The only thing that could go a little better is if the LC2i could auto-detect remote on its own. Having to run a remote from the front of the car was a huge waste of time (and I want to cry everytime panels are opened as this leads to rattle sounds...).

Thanks again to all... now on to mechanical mods... Fabspeed X-pipe and catless pipes received and ready to install... ESS VT1-535 after that.
Glad that all worked out for you...

The LC2i is not the only signal sensing circuit that fails with the OEM amp woofer outputs of the Individual Audio. I have tested several passive LOC with signal sensing and all fail as well. I have not analized the OEM woofer signal outputs in detail however it seems to me like there is only a signal when a bass note hits and no "hiss" at all in between.

That "hiss" voltage level is what triggers the signal sensing circuits. This issue is not present in any other BMW OEM amp -Logic7 or HiFi amp in the E60- where the remote turn on signal is triggered right after opening a door (OEM amp turn on by opening a door or trunk by design) and no music playing at all.
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      08-18-2011, 10:28 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Glad that all worked out for you...

The LC2i is not the only signal sensing circuit that fails with the OEM amp woofer outputs of the Individual Audio. I have tested several passive LOC with signal sensing and all fail as well. I have not analized the OEM woofer signal outputs in detail however it seems to me like there is only a signal when a bass note hits and no "hiss" at all in between.

That "hiss" voltage level is what triggers the signal sensing circuits. This issue is not present in any other BMW OEM amp -Logic7 or HiFi amp in the E60- where the remote turn on signal is triggered right after opening a door (OEM amp turn on by opening a door or trunk by design) and no music playing at all.
does it have to be triggered by the sub outputs?
or is the voltage on the fronts/center/rears too weak?
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      08-18-2011, 11:14 AM   #5
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Thats whats keeping me from adding a sub and amp. That darn remote wire. If everything I needed was in the trunk, I would do it. But having to run one wire up front to trigger the LOC sucks.
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      08-18-2011, 12:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmarei View Post
does it have to be triggered by the sub outputs?
or is the voltage on the fronts/center/rears too weak?
The issue is not that the voltage is weak, it is that it is below the threashold level and very intermittent.

I have not tried the other speakers outputs but they may work with a PAC TR-4.
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      08-18-2011, 01:46 PM   #7
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I will post pics later of the amp and LC2i location (didn't think people would care since its a small setup )

We tried, for fun, other LOC with remote sensing circuits and they didn't work either on the subwoofer speaker outputs.

We did not try other speakers.

Has anyone tried to use the taillight LED circuit to get that remote signal? It seems possible with less than 5$ of electronics to make the voltage appropriate it would be something that could be rigged. There is also the little light for the license plate, isn't that always on as soon as the DRLs are on?
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      08-18-2011, 01:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R0ut3r View Post
I will post pics later of the amp and LC2i location (didn't think people would care since its a small setup )

We tried, for fun, other LOC with remote sensing circuits and they didn't work either on the subwoofer speaker outputs.

We did not try other speakers.

Has anyone tried to use the taillight LED circuit to get that remote signal? It seems possible with less than 5$ of electronics to make the voltage appropriate it would be something that could be rigged. There is also the little light for the license plate, isn't that always on as soon as the DRLs are on?
Leave the tailights alone... it may trigger ECU errors.
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      08-21-2011, 12:47 AM   #9
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Here are some blurry, hastily taken pictures.. but you guys get the idea
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      08-24-2011, 11:18 AM   #10
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Technic,

What is the best way of getting a trigger wire - that blows I was pumped to install all my equipment SWS8S + Rockford 300.2
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      08-24-2011, 01:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3DCTBT View Post
Technic,

What is the best way of getting a trigger wire - that blows I was pumped to install all my equipment SWS8S + Rockford 300.2
Technic advised me to run a wire to pin 13 of the CCC/Cic plug. It works perfectly and only takes 30 mins to do. It really isn't too difficult.

I just ran it through the middle of the console.
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      12-13-2011, 10:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3DCTBT View Post
Technic,

What is the best way of getting a trigger wire - that blows I was pumped to install all my equipment SWS8S + Rockford 300.2
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpina527 View Post
Technic advised me to run a wire to pin 13 of the CCC/Cic plug. It works perfectly and only takes 30 mins to do. It really isn't too difficult.

I just ran it through the middle of the console.
Is this the Remote Input wire you're talking about?? This is where I am confused right now. Some input would be wonderful.
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