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      09-30-2011, 04:41 PM   #61
MuttGrunt
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Drives: beater;)
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SE Michigan

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sedan_Clan View Post
Thanks for the post. One addition though...

...I NEVER get swirls because I never wash using circular motions, and I pat dry.
"Swirls" come in all shapes and sizes and aren't just installed from drying. It's at any point of touching your paint. Wax? Apply sealant with a DA? how do your remove your wax? How do you remove polish?
In all - you're doing the right thing in trying to minimize circular motions, and I'm sure it's had a very positive affect on how your car continues to look.


Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp2 View Post
Good, post, really. Agree with everything. I think we are pretty well at the point of understanding each other here and admitting that one size doesn't fit all. Thanks for the mostly tame discussion.
One size truly does not fit all, and it's always about finding the right fit for you. I struggled a bit finding the perfect application method for Leather Master products when I first got them in. Directions to gently wipe on the surface and wipe away with a clean towel seemed to yield surprisingly marginal results. I also tried a cotton applicator pad, a Swissvax leather brush, and a sponge, but nothing gave me the true results I was looking for. The surface still seemed contaminated with build-up that I was confident could be removed. I decided to use a little more physical agitation with a much slower going method: a toothbrush aka "the Fermani method." Bingo. The right amount of agitation with the right amount of work time with the right amount of concentration in a single area lead to outstanding results.
This method even works incredible on perforated leather (left side cleaned, right side untouched):




I've tried a lot of different things and have found things that work great. This is why I know how some things work. Don't forget I don't disagree in if a Magic Eraser CAN work, but rather if it's appropriate to use when less aggressive methods CAN work just as well. It's the same way I'd recommend to someone struggling to remove bug guts from their front bumper to try to clay the paint first (which is abrasive) rather than going right to sanding with 4,000 grit (which is more abrasive, though not the same as 400grit). Four-thousand grit marks would easily come out with 2-3 polishing steps, but it is best to always try a less aggressive method first. Work towards aggressive steps, now down from them.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sedan_Clan View Post
To some extent I agree here.
Keep in mind a urethane coating on leather is very thin, while plastics are thick homogeneous layers of a substance. You aren't going to wear through plastic trim like you can wear through clear-coat or leather surface.
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