[F48_Driver]

Originally Posted by redpriest

Yeah. I was resigned to put on the tow truck if I couldn't get it to hold. What was scary was that an entire portion of the thread wall had collapsed so there was a hole that you could see into the oil pan.

Had it on jackstands, and trying to center the drill in the pan, while holding it steady with only an inch of clearance on the other end of the drill was kind of scary.

Did the best I could to get the aluminum flakes out of the pan. I lubricated the drill and tap with 10w60. Time-Sert recommends 30wt oil but I didn't have it on hand, nor does the kit I ordered actually come with their specified oil.

Cold 10w60 is kind of syrupy, so I think it trapped a lot of the particles. I backed out the drill a couple times to clean out flakes, and went really slow. My drill doesn't have a lot of torque, so I ended up hand screwing the drill with a tap wrench. Ended up littering my garage floor with tons of aluminum flakes!

My supposed 1/2" inch tap wrench didn't fit half of the pieces included with the kit, so I had to improvise with a socket wrench conversion piece, .

Counterbore was kind of hard too on the drill, ended up doing that my hand as well. The centering piece that they give you was hard to set flush whilst tapping the bored out hole, lol.

I used blue oil resistant loctite on the outer threads of the bushing they give you to set the piece. Rest of it was easy.

I put 2 liters of 10w60 oil into the engine to flush out whatever aluminum shavings I missed and let that drain overnight.

Best I can tell from looking at the oil hydraulic diagram for the S65, the next stop from the sump inlet is the oil filter, so hopefully that traps anything else. That made me feel better when I went to crank the engine.

I did a bunch of spirited driving, bouncing off the red line at least a dozen times since then. Seems to be holding strong! Engine hasn't seized yet.

Nice!!! Like finding $1800 on the ground.

Good you don't have to spend money to replace the oil pan =)